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2xS · 12-09-2009, 05:08 PM

what a great post... and then I forgot the attachment...

WILDRTEXAS · 12-09-2009, 06:45 PM

WOW......REALLY WOW.... 2Xs That is amazing
Thank You ~ Cynthia

2xS · 12-09-2009, 07:33 PM

Thanks Cynthia!

Hope you'll be able to get your system off to a good start!

When it comes down to it:

the blue box (univolt) = a battery charger + a fuse block

Cheers!
~Dennis

vswingfield · 12-09-2009, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WILDRTEXAS

WOW......REALLY WOW.... 2Xs That is amazing
Thank You ~ Cynthia

I agree 100%. Impressive work Dennis.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2xS

...

When it comes down to it:

the blue box (univolt) = a battery charger + a fuse block

...

In her case, absolutely. In the case of one like mine:

the blue box (univolt) = a battery charger - a fuse block (external fuse block)

That's why I kept hedging my answers. The only reason I could see for any of the blue box to remain was for the fuse block, but I didn't know for sure how Cynthia's trailer was built. Wasn't sure how things were done in 71. Thanks for clearing things up.

Aage · 12-09-2009, 08:25 PM

2xs,

That is one heck of a rig that you are using to replace your fusebox and Univolt!

I'm guessing, due to its shape, that this will go across the front of the trailer. Have you done any calculations on what the impact on your tongue weight will be, once all 6 batteries are loaded?

Also, do you plan to ensure that the Arc is isolated from the trailer's air space? I believe that there is a safety reason for making sure that such is the case. You probably noticed that the original battery space was only open to the outside, and not the trailer's interior.

Perhaps the fans are designed to vent to the outdoors?

WILDRTEXAS · 12-09-2009, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aage

You probably noticed that the original battery space was only open to the outside, and not the trailer's interior.

Perhaps the fans are designed to vent to the outdoors?

aage, was planning to move my battery to under he curbside twin instead of putting it back in the rear. Is this a Bad Idea

??

vswingfield · 12-09-2009, 09:28 PM

You will want to ensure that the battery cannot vent gases (hydrogen mostly) into the interior. Some have installed sealed AGM batteries without doing this, but my understanding is that this doesn't technically meet code. I haven't switched to AGMs and have no immediate plans to do so.

I can tell you that an improperly vented battery being boiled by a faulty Univolt will set off a carbon monoxide detector. Very unsettling in the middle of the night.

overlander63 · 12-09-2009, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vswingfield

I can tell you that an improperly vented battery being boiled by a faulty Univolt will set off a carbon monoxide detector. Very unsettling in the middle of the night.

And it doesn't smell very good, either

...
Just today I replaced a bad Univolt with a modern converter. I pulled apart the old Univolt, salvaged the fuse panel, heaved the rest of the boat-anchor-formerly-known-as-a-Univolt out the door, and built a small electrical center out of the upgraded converter and fuse panel.
At least yours is out in the open, I had to tear apart a closet and dig under the bathtub to get at the one I replaced.

Aage · 12-09-2009, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WILDRTEXAS

aage, was planning to move my battery to under he curbside twin instead of putting it back in the rear. Is this a Bad Idea

??

Yep, I'm afraid it is. Greater minds than mine can tell you exactly why, but it seems certain that it's not advisable.

Aage · 12-09-2009, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

At least yours is out in the open, I had to tear apart a closet and dig under the bathtub to get at the one I replaced.

Terry, that's my problem exactly. I have the new converter, and I even bought a new distribution panel (fuse panel) but when I went to sketch out a plan to do the swap, I looked into the current Univolt's home there, in the corner of the closet, and I could NOT imagine how my big hands would be able to manoever in there to undo all the bolts.

I had a nightmare-type flash that I would be forced to remove the tub.

I asked when I was at JC, and they (half-jokingly, I thought) suggested that I get a 7-year old to do it for me.

On mine (and probably on yours too) there is a U-shaped metal cover over the Univolt, making the access to the rear bolts look impossible for an adult hand.

Any hints? Oh, just re-read your description, and you took out the closet wall adjacent to the tub, is that right?

silverleeper · 12-09-2009, 10:11 PM

It's never as simple as a yes or a no on most any subject.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...box-58059.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ery-40049.html

On both my Airstreams I have batteries that live inside. I have updated converters and have sealed batteries. Even with sealed batteries vent tubes are suggested. Do your research.

2xS · 12-09-2009, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aage

I'm guessing, due to its shape, that this will go across the front of the trailer. Have you done any calculations on what the impact on your tongue weight will be, once all 6 batteries are loaded?

Also, do you plan to ensure that the Arc is isolated from the trailer's air space? I believe that there is a safety reason for making sure that such is the case. You probably noticed that the original battery space was only open to the outside, and not the trailer's interior.

Perhaps the fans are designed to vent to the outdoors?

The ARC actually weighs less than the Univolt!!! But seriously, each battery alone is about 50lbs. x 6, and the rest of it combined (including framework) is probably about 100lbs-125lbs. So the whole thing total is about 400lbs. What can I say? Electricity is mandatory, after all, I hold a BS in Electrical Engineering.

The ARC is installed in the forward portion of the trailer.

The ventilation system utilizes air from inside the trailer, and it only kicks on when the temperature inside reaches my desired set point. I suppose I could route it out, but at the moment, I'm trying to keep in any warm air I got inside. Several detectors are used to ensure I'm not dying for my electricity.

And as long as you insulate the terminals on the battery, and you have an AGM battery; it shouldn't matter where you put it. The only concern is if your battery charger overcharges the battery as this is what causes hydrogen pockets; in other words, get a microcontroller based charging system to help eliminate that possibility. But planning an enclosure with ventilation to the outside is probably the safest idea... There are several options for an outside vent if you'd like to place it under the twin: 1) the trunk space in that same area, or 2) you could tap the air vents for the drains; one will be accessible under your kitchen counter behind the sink, and another would be in the passenger closet.

And Aage... you know that tub has to go anyways

ROBERT CROSS · 12-10-2009, 06:08 AM

My experience only....I may just wait 'til a problem shows it's ugly little face before replacing full speed ahead...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ems-55549.html

Alwhisman · 12-10-2009, 06:25 AM

Wow,

Dennis has a serious boondocking setup....just add a solar panel or two.......

WILDRTEXAS · 12-10-2009, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

My experience only....I may just wait 'til a problem shows it's ugly little face before replacing full speed
ahead...

AMEN... Then the rear floor rot rears its UGLY head

WILDRTEXAS · 12-10-2009, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2xS

And Aage... you know that tub has to go anyways

Diggin your tub replacement. Where did you get the pan? Did you need to reroute the drain? Is the top braced as a seat? Lookin good!

2xS · 12-10-2009, 11:33 AM

I replaced the tub with a 32"x32" shower pan. It was the largest size I could get to fit in the space. I got the pan at Lowes; I believe it was about $120. No special order: it was just there on the shelf. Then I got to rebuild the counter and all that; yay! The tile bathroom counter does double as a seat; I made sure of that with some 90 degree brackets, rivets, and a whole lotta support structure.

I did need to reroute the drain; the tub was like 22"x44" and its' drain was in the middle closer to the edge by the door. My pan had the drain dead center. It wasn't too far off though. I had to cut away a little more of the floor there in order to make it happen. I managed to be able to tap the existing drain line and with a couple fancy ABS angles and some luck trying to set the pan on the fitting and in the spot. It wan't easy, but knowing I won't have to sit down to shower (in a tub that was disintegrating) makes all the effort well worth it.

2xS · 12-10-2009, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alwhisman

just add a solar panel or two.......

Thanks!

I think I'm going to try my hand with a wind turbine though. I found a $450 unit that pulls 400W. Solar just can't do that....

Amazon.com: Sunforce 44444 12-Volt 400-Watt Wind Generator: Automotive

WILDRTEXAS · 12-10-2009, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2xS

I replaced the tub with a 32"x32" shower pan. It was the largest size I could get to fit in the space. I got the pan at Lowes; I believe it was about $120. No special order: it was just there on the shelf. Then I got to rebuild the counter and all that; yay! The tile bathroom counter does double as a seat; I made sure of that with some 90 degree brackets, rivets, and a whole lotta support structure.

knowing I won't have to sit down to shower

PRICELESS!!

Thanks for the photos...
Im very visual and this too is PRICELESS

Cynthia

WILDRTEXAS · 12-10-2009, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2xS

I replaced the tub with a 32"x32" shower pan. It was the largest size I could get to fit in the space. I got the pan at Lowes; I believe it was about $120. No special order: it was just there on the shelf. Then I got to rebuild the counter and all that; yay! The tile bathroom counter does double as a seat; I made sure of that with some 90 degree brackets, rivets, and a whole lotta support structure.

Oh yeah, what material did you wrap the pan with? The sheet vinyl?
How about the counter/seat the tiles? Are they on a hardi backer type material or just glued down on subtop?