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Old 02-28-2006, 08:58 PM   #1
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Question Upgrade converter in '05 Classic 31?

Have asked dealer service dept several times but never got an answer: Can I upgrade the stock 30A converter to 50A? If so, is it a plug-n-play operation, or a major rewiring? When running AC and convection oven, breakers blow, either on power pedestal or on main panel in the trailer. Living in So Calif, sometimes it's preferable to cook indoors while staying cool, for some reason.

Dan
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Old 02-28-2006, 09:03 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandboss
Have asked dealer service dept several times but never got an answer: Can I upgrade the stock 30A converter to 50A? If so, is it a plug-n-play operation, or a major rewiring? When running AC and convection oven, breakers blow, either on power pedestal or on main panel in the trailer. Living in So Calif, sometimes it's preferable to cook indoors while staying cool, for some reason.

Dan
It will need extensive rewiring. Just going to 50A mains will still blow the 30A in the trailer.
I am assuming that you're not talking about the converter/charger for 12V, but the actual power feed to your rig from the power pedestal, right?
You would have to replace the power input to a 50A capable connector and cord, and also have the breaker box re-wired to accept the 50A system.
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Old 03-01-2006, 06:22 AM   #3
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As uwe says, the "converter" USES 120VAC to supply the 12VDC for your lights, fans (including that in the furnace), water pump, stereo, TV antenna, refrigerator circuit board, water heater controls, LP detector, and to charge your batteries. Your converter is probably already a 50-55 amp model and it COMPETES with your air-conditioning and convection oven for that 30 amps of 120VAC power.

To upgrade your 30 amp 120VAC power to 50 amp, you will need to replace the trailer's 3-wire 30 amp power cord with a much heavier 4-wire 50 amp cord. That runs from the power cord compartment, up through the wall to the breaker box in the bedroom overhead. Then you will need to replace the main breaker box with one that handles two legs of power and lets you put the air-conditioner on its own leg. It isn't a trivial plug-and-play task.

It won't do anything for your 120VAC overload problem, and in fact it can make it worse when your batteries are heavily discharged, but replacing your 12VDC single-voltage converter with a 3-stage "smart" unit is a relatively plug-and-play operation, at least for your dealer or someone skilled at electrical work. It will charge your batteries faster when they are heavily discharged, and float them at a lower voltage when they are charged, protecting them from water "boil-off."
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Old 03-01-2006, 06:58 AM   #4
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Upon thinking about this some more, and noting that we never have overload problems running our 13,500 btu AC and 1500W microwave simultaneously, there are a couple of other things I should mention...

First, if you have one, NEVER have the electrical element in the water heater turned on when you want to use anything that draws a lot of power while the AC is running. That includes not only the convection or microwave oven, but a hair dryer, etc. We almost never use that feature in our water heater, using only gas, and then only when we need hot water.

Second, try switching the refrigerator from "Auto" to "Gas" when you want to use the convection oven. The frig only draws about 3 amps of 120VAC, but it might make the difference between overloading and not for you.
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