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Old 06-28-2009, 02:48 PM   #15
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1989 29' Excella
Boerne , Texas
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Interesting, I am doing the same thing. Here's what I think I am going to do step-by-step. If anyone thinks I am about to do something stupid or wrong, please advise. Also, I welcome any comments.

First, I have a 89' Excella, with the standard auto-reset 12 v fuses in the panel. (buss bar running down the inside of all fuses, and circuit wires on the other side.)

Before you begin, disconnect all shore power, and turn the 12v kill switch to OFF.

Remove old univolt:
1. Unplug or disconnect the 120v cord. (mine unplugs)
2. Remove the NEG wire from the fuse panel (lower left hand corner in the fuse panel)
3. Remove the POS wire from the 12v Kill Switch (or the buss bar in the fuse panel)
4. Remove the 12v indicator wire from the single non-bussed fuse in the fuse panel (not connect to buss bar)

WA-LA, old unit removed!

Install the new Inetli-Power (IP for short):

(NOTE: Since I am going from a 50A univolt to a 60A IP, I am going to use #6 AWG wire. I will use a white wire for the ground, and a black wire for the POS)

1. Connect the White wire to one of the -NEG terminals on the IP. (it takes an allen wrench from the top on the terminals to do this). Run the white wire up to the fuse panel and connect it to the ground terminal in the fuse panel.
2. Connect the Black wire to one of the +POS terminals on the IP. Run that wire to the 12v Kill Switch, OR directly to the Buss Bar in the fuse panel. (Better to have a kill switch) If you run it to a kill switch, there will be 3 wires on this side of the switch, 2 from each of the two batteries (POS + side), and the wire from the IP. The single wire side of the 12V Kill Switch then goes to the Buss Bar in the fuse panel.

This essentially completes the replacement of the univolt to the Inteli-Power. However, there are two more steps that need to occur.

1. Ground the IP. On the opposite side of the IP from the POS/NEG connectors, is a single ground connection. Connect a wire from there to a chassis ground somewhere (anywhere close).

2. Then, in the removal step you removed a 12v Indicator wire (step 4). You will need to repace this by using a normal 12v transformer (one like the ones that come with your cell phones. Or go to Radio Shack and get one.) The two wires coming out of the transformer are + and - (usually indicated on the transformer). Connect the + to the single isolated fuse in the fuse panel, and the - to the ground block you connected the IP to. Plug it into a normal wall jack (120vac) and you're back in business.

Anyway, this is what I intend to do. Does anyone seen anything that might cause me grief? Also, use these instructions at your own risk. This is a best-guess on my part.

OH, and to isolate your short, you can remove the circuit side of each circuit in the fuse panel to determine which circuit it is (don't use the shock method, use an OHM meter to see if the current is still there). And like before, it's probably a fixture or in case of remodle work, a pinched wire or something. But you need to find it and fix it, it can cause you real grief. You get shocked when you have your shoes off because YOU are providing the circuit from + to -. When you have shoes on, you're insulated.

Anyway, let me know if this makes sense or not. It's what I am going to try.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:41 AM   #16
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Carrollton , Kentucky
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Originally Posted by towmommy View Post
My question is once cut away from the univolt, how do you connect the neg/pos leads into the intellipower? It has two recepticles for neg/pos hookup, but no screws or leads coming out to connect them to. Do I have to take something apart?
This is mine:

Inteli-Power 45 Amp Converter/Charger - Item - Camping World

If you zoom in w/ the "view larger image" thingy, you can see where the leads are inserted just to the right of the fuses, then held in place with a set screw from the top. Yours may be a different model, I dunno.


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Old 06-29-2009, 07:36 AM   #17
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Oakdale , Minnesota
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Something about that Purple wire Aage. My bathroom is that circuit too, and no 12v power in that room. I had read that someone else had rewired that circuit to a good fuse. I don't recommend this as a perm fix as it would overload the fuse, but it is a way to find out if the problem is in the fuse area or in the wire or connections in the circuit (fixtures).

I'm going to check fixtures now.
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:37 AM   #18
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1979 31' Sovereign
westfield , Massachusetts
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Ok, worst case of old age eyes in denial yet! I did see the set screws but couldn't figure out how to get them out or move them as they appeared to be open holes down the center. After a REALLY bright light and cheaters I see the hex tip shape in all of them. Sorry all for all the confusion. I am simply going to cut wires and insert them properly into the new box. Now after all this discussion, which quite frankly is way over my head about wiring and fuses (My circuit breaker is now where near the fusebox!) and seeing how much bigger your intellipower is than mine Mike, I am wondering if I have the right model for the job! I bought (actually it was a gift from my brother) the PD9262C from Steve @ Vintage. I run just the normal stuff, tv, microwave, lights,laptop, etc. Is this thing the proper ampage? Hope you all haven't lost patience with me yet!
Aage will test fixtures today( another rainy day in Massachusetts!) Have battled with lights so much, I think over time I just get sick of the same things and move on to other issues. It's been a while since I revisited overheads having replace all the switches ions ago. Thanks for the reminder that is undoubtly my problem. Will keep you in the loop. Am going to do this on the old univolt which I havent cut just yet so if there is shock still left in her it will be just a small one! God knows what that new unit could do to me!
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:37 PM   #19
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1979 31' Sovereign
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Ok,Aage, I took down all the lighting in the galley,as well as the flood light and took apart the fuse panel today. Found some 'exposed' wire in the panel and rewound the brown fuse wire (brown wire connects all the galley lights) reinserted and tightened all the fuse screws. Taped over any and all exposed wiring and closed her up. Plugged in the old univolt and .....nothing. Really bummed. No shock though so that's on the "positive" end of things. I think it could likely be in the switch by the door whose covers by the way do not come off from the wall side(typical). I know because I broke the flood light cover trying to pry it off today to get behind it. RRRRRR
On the upside, good opportunity to freshen up the paint on all those ugly cieling fixtures and wash the lenses. Once I hook up the intellipower I'm going back to polishing where I can definately get immediate results!
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Old 06-30-2009, 06:48 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by towmommy View Post
Now after all this discussion, which quite frankly is way over my head about wiring and fuses (My circuit breaker is now where near the fusebox!) and seeing how much bigger your intellipower is than mine Mike, I am wondering if I have the right model for the job! I bought (actually it was a gift from my brother) the PD9262C from Steve @ Vintage.
Do you mean PD9260C? If so, that is the 60 amp model, higher than mine. I don't see a PD9262C on their website.
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:08 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by towmommy View Post
Ok,Aage, I took down all the lighting in the galley,as well as the flood light and took apart the fuse panel today.!
Did you undo the wire nuts in the fixtures and have a good look at the bare wires? I found several to be corroded, and that's never good. I also found one that passed through the roof to the outside then back in again (why it diad that, who the heck knows!?) but it was abraded to the point of shorting out on the metal it passed through. Scored one win there. LOL!

I know what you mean, working with the wiring is not really a rewarding experience until you have a success. But when that light goes on...

Have fun!
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Old 07-01-2009, 07:35 AM   #22
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1989 29' Excella
Boerne , Texas
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Mine is a 60A model and it is much smaller than the one pictured. You only have to worry about size when it comes to how much current you want to use (and of course space to install it -- it needs to be able to cool itself). You don't want to be under size (amperage) for your use (more amps are better in this case). It will say on the unit itself how much amperage it is built to provide.

Also, on my 60A model besides being smaller, it has two connections for each the POS and NEG (for a total of 4 wire connections) wires, and there are 3 each 25A (auto-type) fuses to the left of where you connect the wires.

Also, a good idea about cutting the old wires and just inserting them into the new IP. Just make sure to get the polarity correct (and tighten those allen screws down tight). The wire that goes to the buss bar (common bar connected to all the fuses) is the POS on the IP.

HIHO!
Mario
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