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Old 06-30-2009, 07:08 AM   #21
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1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towmommy View Post
Ok,Aage, I took down all the lighting in the galley,as well as the flood light and took apart the fuse panel today.!
Did you undo the wire nuts in the fixtures and have a good look at the bare wires? I found several to be corroded, and that's never good. I also found one that passed through the roof to the outside then back in again (why it diad that, who the heck knows!?) but it was abraded to the point of shorting out on the metal it passed through. Scored one win there. LOL!

I know what you mean, working with the wiring is not really a rewarding experience until you have a success. But when that light goes on...

Have fun!
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:35 AM   #22
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1989 29' Excella
Boerne , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 29
Mine is a 60A model and it is much smaller than the one pictured. You only have to worry about size when it comes to how much current you want to use (and of course space to install it -- it needs to be able to cool itself). You don't want to be under size (amperage) for your use (more amps are better in this case). It will say on the unit itself how much amperage it is built to provide.

Also, on my 60A model besides being smaller, it has two connections for each the POS and NEG (for a total of 4 wire connections) wires, and there are 3 each 25A (auto-type) fuses to the left of where you connect the wires.

Also, a good idea about cutting the old wires and just inserting them into the new IP. Just make sure to get the polarity correct (and tighten those allen screws down tight). The wire that goes to the buss bar (common bar connected to all the fuses) is the POS on the IP.

HIHO!
Mario
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