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Old 07-07-2010, 08:50 AM   #1
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Univolt saga continues

Called and placed order for replacement univolt. Received 55 amp converter. Took out original univolt and found that it is a: TU-470-6, Triad-Utrad, 70 amp. My question is should I return the 55 amp and get at least a 70 amp converter? The Triad-Utrad has written on it: Red lead- positive, Black lead- negative and White lead- power on ind. What does the White lead power on ind. mean? Thanks for any and all help. Jack
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:17 AM   #2
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Power On Indicator light wire.
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:22 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Skamper1 View Post
Called and placed order for replacement univolt. Received 55 amp converter. Took out original univolt and found that it is a: TU-470-6, Triad-Utrad, 70 amp. My question is should I return the 55 amp and get at least a 70 amp converter? The Triad-Utrad has written on it: Red lead- positive, Black lead- negative and White lead- power on ind. What does the White lead power on ind. mean? Thanks for any and all help. Jack
There is a post on how to make a wiring change in the control panel, so that you still can use the "power on light" feature, with the new style univolts.

Andy
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:25 AM   #4
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The 55 amp converter should be plenty unless you have more than two batteries and want to be able to recharge them quickly as might be the case if you are a boondocker who runs the generator briefly each day and expects it to top off the batteries.
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:58 AM   #5
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Just have the one battery. Do not plan to boondock, but use 110 hook-up at campground (semi-permanent). Thanks for solving the "Power on Indicator" question. I would guess that with the new converter I will lose that feature? Should I just cap off the white wire? Power demands will be 12 v lights, bath fan, furnance, stereo, and ceiling fan/vent. Do not plan to use the pump since I will have a water supply. Appreciate the responses. Jack
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Old 07-07-2010, 11:01 AM   #6
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Just have the one battery. Do not plan to boondock, but use 110 hook-up at campground (semi-permanent). Thanks for solving the "Power on Indicator" question. I would guess that with the new converter I will lose that feature? Should I just cap off the white wire? Power demands will be 12 v lights, bath fan, furnance, stereo, and ceiling fan/vent. Do not plan to use the pump since I will have a water supply. Appreciate the responses. Jack
Power "ON" light

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

UNDERSTANDING THE POWER ON LIGHT

1. The power on light IS NOT WIRED to positive voltage on one side ans negative on the other.

A. Checking the wires to the light with the trailer unplugged will show positive battery voltage on both wires. Since the voltage is the same on both sides of the bulb there is no current flow through the filament and it does not glow.

1. The positive battery voltage on one side comes direct from the battery. The positive battery voltage on the other side comes from the battery, through the univolt, and out the power on light circuit to the bulb.

2. The power on light is wired with one side to the positive battery voltage,and the other side to the power on light circuit of the univolt.

A. Checking the wires to the light with the trailer plugged in will show univolt/battery DC voltage on one side and univolt unrectified AC voltage on the other. The reading will practically be the same except one is DC and the other is AC. Example: 12.6 plus DC one side versus 12.6 AC on the other side. Since there is a voltage potential difference between the wires there is a current flow through the filament and the bulb will glow.

1. The positive DC battery current on one side comes direct from the battery. The AC current on the other side comes from the transformer windings in the univolt before the current is rectified.

Now that everyone has that information, it becomes a problem when a new style converter is installed. The following will tell you how to modify the circuitry to make the power on light work again.

A converter with a new name has been used in Airstream trailers and motorhomes, since the end of February 1988. The name is MAGNETEK, and it replaces the Triad/Utrad that was used for many years. The basic design is the same.

All functions and testing remain the same, except for the power on light circuit. In past years, the wiring on the power on light was positive on both sides (read above), and only the difference in voltage potential, AC versus DC, caused the light to function.

On the current Magnetek converters the power on circuit provides 12 volt DC to one side of the bulb and the other side is ground. This 12 volt power is picked up from the 18 gauge wire from the converter.

When a Magnetek is used to replace a Triad/Utrad, the wiring must be changed at the power on light in the control panel. The purple wire to the power on bulb will not have to be changed. The "black" wire WILL have to cut and spliced into one of the white ground wires.

And finally, you can have another swig, make it a long one, of your cool one.

Hopes this squares away the problem.

Andy
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:45 PM   #7
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Andy: Thanks for all the research. Didn't have a clue where to begin. Will have an electrician friend try and explain this to me....then persuade him to do it? Thanks again. Will let you know what happens. Jack
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Old 07-07-2010, 01:33 PM   #8
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Rivet Power On Light

I guess I got lucky. The power on light didn't work before I replaced the Univolt. I've never worried about it.
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Old 07-10-2010, 02:05 AM   #9
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Here is a simple power on indicator fix.
http://www.bestconverter.com/assets/...t/Univoltp.pdf
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