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Old 07-27-2010, 12:52 PM   #1
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Univolt removal

I just found the location of the univolt in my '72 Tradewind. It is in the rear bath down in the corner. Is there an easy way to get it out?
Robert
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Old 07-27-2010, 01:11 PM   #2
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There is a mounting flange at the bottom with a couple of screws into the plywood floor. Some of the screws may be hard to get to.
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Old 07-27-2010, 01:37 PM   #3
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Welcome to airforums.com, Robert! I like your choice in Airstreams.

On my TT, the Univolt is accessed by kneeling in front of the streetside rear closet, and peering into the bottom right corner. it is under the bath back wall, but you get to it from the closet.

The 1974 Service Manual says:

a. Disconnect power cord for 120 volt supply.

b. Switch circuit breakers to "OFF" position.

c. Remove panel or open door to Univolt area

d. Remove two screws at front of Univolt which secures the Univolt's plywood base to the Univolt stand. Do not remove at shock mount area.

e. Disconnect harness wires from face plate of Univolt.

f. Disconnect 120 volt Romex wire in area below face plate.

g. Slide Univolt and plywood out.

h. Proir to reinstalling Univolt, inspect shock mounts for tightness. The steel legs of Univolt should not come in contact with plywood base. The shock mounts reduce the Univolt's noise from "telegraphing" through the trailer.

i. When reinstalling Univolt/plywood base assembly, be sure the base is positioned under the rear mounting bracket.


So really while it looks difficult, it should be fairly easy to get it out. There are only the front screws to undo, and all the visible wiring. This is clarified by the statement in line "i". The back is held in by sliding the plywood under a bracket.

I'll be doing my own soon, so I will watch your efforts with interest...
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:13 PM   #4
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I had the same issue with my '72, and when I found that the aged tub was cracked directly above the univolt; the tub got torn out immediately! Getting to the univolt was no problem after that
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:40 PM   #5
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The univolt in my 72
TW serves as a fuse panel. A PO put in an Intellicharger for the 12Volt but left the univolt to route power to four fuses that feed the lighting and 12 volt system. On my last trip the top fuse holder would rattle loose rendering the bathroom light and back overhead light not working till I tracked it down.
Better to replace it all if you're into the closet. All things old will eventually go out. No lights in the trailer is one thing you don't want to work through on vacation.
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichHog View Post
The univolt in my 72
On my last trip the top fuse holder would rattle loose rendering the bathroom light and back overhead light not working till I tracked it down.
Very common occurrence, and exactly what mine does, PLUS the fuse holding clips have corroded and gained resistance, so that even when it does make contact, it heats up considerably.

The only part of that little fuse panel you might want to keep is the shunt. Just detach the fusebox, you'll see it when you take it off.

Without the shunt, your new converter won't advise your Control Panel (big starship looking box in the locker over the stove on mine) that you have AC power.
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:36 AM   #7
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I couldn't figure it out, thought I had a loose wire somewhere cause the back ceiling light and bathroom light and fan would go out intermittently. Then I pulled out the manual and discovered that there was a 4th fuse at the very top of the uni-volt i couldn't see unless i was lying flat on the floor. Replaced it and the lights came on but it was very loose in the holder. So sometime in the fuure should yank it out and put in a new fuse block. Also the Intellicharger was just sitting loose on top of the plumming and it bounced around a few times and needed to be plugged back in.
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:43 AM   #8
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Yeah, when I first had that same problem, I envisaged tearing out the entire ceiling to find out where it was cut or shorted.

Imagine my relief when I figured out it was only the durn Univolt causing the fault.
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Old 07-29-2010, 09:28 AM   #9
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Yes the electrical bugers are hard to track down, especially those behind the skin.
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Old 07-29-2010, 11:05 AM   #10
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Univolt removal

You guys are great, prompt replies and good information.

Yesterday I peeked thru the opening in the bath and was surprised at the condition of the univolt, it looked new. I think I will try to do a little trouble shooting before I start replacing. All the fuses that I could see appeared to be ok. I'm guessing the next step would involve a multimeter.

I think I'll search the Forum for clues and wait till it cools off a bit, it was 103 inside the TW yesterday.

Thanks, Robert
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:20 PM   #11
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Y'know, it jsut ocurred to me that we never heard your actual complaint. You wanted to know how to get your Univolt out.

Why do you want to do this?

If it's to do with the bedroom and bathroom lights, check out the fuse on the right hand that has a purple wire going to it.

ps: It has been hiding out of view for 36 years, why are you surprised it looks new? Trust me, it's original; NObody would put in a new one...
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:38 PM   #12
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Aage, Good question. The first thing I did was to buy a new set of tires and have the rims powder coated. Next,bought a big deep cycle battery, plugged in the shore power and my battery ran down after a few days and did not recharge. I know the 8 track player works, some lights and a fan somewhere under the sink works.

I am just getting started and will need all kinds of help.

Thanks, Robert
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Old 07-29-2010, 06:02 PM   #13
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Yes, well, good idea to get an updated converter then, since one of the Univolt's less endearing quirks is that it is going to boil your brand new battery and make it go by-bye in fairly short order.

I wonder if there is a "Vacation" or "Storage" switch on your trailer, Robert? If the Univolt is dead, then no surprise your battery went flat, but some models of AS have a setting that (I believe) shut it off for storage purposes. You should recharge the battery on a standard car battery re-charger. it's not good for it to leave it in a discharged condition.

My SOTR (Sovereign of the Road) doesn't have one, but that's not to say that yours doesn't...
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:27 AM   #14
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You have an 8 track in the Tradewind? That sounds strange, didn't think the Landyachts came with such options. Check all of your 12 volt fixtures, overhead lights, fan in bathroom, even the plug in car adapters, one over the fridge area and one in the back closet. Also the vent fan over the stove. If all those work then at least fuses and wiring is good. Does your Tradewind have twin beds or a double? Do you have a tub shower or what's called a wet bath?
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