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Old 09-25-2008, 07:01 PM   #1
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Univolt Help

1972 on shore power, no battery, nothing 12v works. I have 120 to the univolt, no blown fuses, but no volts across any of the fuses (could have tested it wrong). It is humming, and a little warm so it is doing something. Am I testing something wrong? Is it dead? Aslo how do you get it off the floor. I went after the nuts but they seem to just spin the bolt in the floor? Thanks for the help.
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Old 09-25-2008, 07:15 PM   #2
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Fairleigh,
Is there a 12V master disconnect switch that migt be in the "off" position??? Start testing at the terminals at the univolt. you should have at least 12V there and then work your way "away" from the univolt to see where you lose 12V. Do you have a multimeter to test with???
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Old 09-25-2008, 07:38 PM   #3
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I have a good multimeter, maybe just a bad operator (me). Where are the univolt terminals? Is there a diagram somewhere? I searched but no luck.
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Old 09-25-2008, 07:41 PM   #4
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Here I found this picture:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...2&d=1210452261

This is what mine looks like. Can anyone lable the differnt terminals for me?
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Old 09-25-2008, 07:55 PM   #5
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Fairleigh,
I think the main power leads in the picture in the link you posted are the heavy gauge red and black wires to the left. There should be positive and negative wires / terminals / posts on the univolt somewhere. Can you take a picture of yours and post it here???
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Old 09-25-2008, 08:35 PM   #6
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Looking at the picture, the univolt outputs are the red and black wires. They attach to the back of the 12 volt distribution panel. I also see that the +12 volt line from the trailer battery is missing. It should be attached to the board on the left side, 2nd spot down. The wire above it comes from your TV by way a few items along the way.
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Old 09-25-2008, 09:39 PM   #7
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So it sounds like I will need to take the unit apart so I can test the 12v input at the back of the panel? If there is nothing there, but 120v going in, is it dead?
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Old 09-26-2008, 04:35 AM   #8
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So it sounds like I will need to take the unit apart so I can test the 12v input at the back of the panel? If there is nothing there, but 120v going in, is it dead?
Fairleigh,
That is correct. If you have 110 in and no 12V ourput then the univolt is kaput. Some folks in here know how to repair them. I on the other hand do not. I replaced the converter in my '87 with a Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power converter model PD9260C from Randy at Best Converter. The old converter was working fine, but had a loud humm that was driving me nuts.
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Old 09-26-2008, 05:54 AM   #9
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Farleigh,

If you want to keep the rig looking original, this company will rebuild your Univolt to brand new condition. They rebuilt the ampmeter in the control panel for me last year. Here is the link:

Industrial Electronics Services - Repair, Engineering, Testing | NyCo-Systems

Good luck.
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Old 09-26-2008, 06:54 AM   #10
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do not dismiss your univolt just yet.

carefully check each side of the glass fuses for voltage.

1 fuses that look good can be bad

2 the fuse holders have rivits on the back of the panel that can loosen and cause intermittant operation.

3 the spring action of the fuse holders can leesen with time and look perfectly good but not pass current.

4 remember the negative cable is fused and could be open as well!

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Old 09-26-2008, 07:30 AM   #11
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Most electrical problems are stupid little things like loose wires. The hard part is finding them. The first think I would check is if your Univolt has a good ground connection. How did you test the fuses? If you tested from a ground in the Univolt and it was not really grounded you would get nothing. Use a ground like the skin or frame. If now your fuses are juiced, you have a bad ground somewhere. My first suspect would be the battery main ground wire
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Old 09-26-2008, 10:55 AM   #12
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Maybe this will help...
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Old 09-26-2008, 11:37 AM   #13
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Ok, all this information looks good, and I got the wiring diagram I have been looking for. I will poke around some more with the voltmeter and see what I find. Thanks!
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Old 09-26-2008, 05:25 PM   #14
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Is it dead?

Well, allright I give. The univolt is still humming away, and has 120 going in. Using the diagram for reference I used my volt meter to touch 1 to 3, 2 to 3, 2 to various possible ground points outside the univolt, and I even went to the battery cables outside all with absolute zero volts. Any more suggestions, or is it broken?
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Old 09-26-2008, 07:22 PM   #15
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Well, allright I give. The univolt is still humming away, and has 120 going in. Using the diagram for reference I used my volt meter to touch 1 to 3, 2 to 3, 2 to various possible ground points outside the univolt, and I even went to the battery cables outside all with absolute zero volts. Any more suggestions, or is it broken?
Fairleigh
If you have to stick with a Univolt try this: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...olt-45389.html
I personally would disconnect the battery and Univolt and check both the + and - leads to ground. Then charge and test the battery.
If there was no short and the battery was good I would replace the Univolt with an Intellipower 9200 or something that is a multi stage charger. I really don't mean to be flip. There are better products available now and you will make up the cost in the life of a battery or two. You will find the new technologies will make a battery last much longer than the old ferro-resonant battery boilers.
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Old 11-04-2008, 10:35 AM   #16
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Well, I replaced the univolt with an intellipower, and used the fuse panel off the front of the univolt. Everything works great now, and there is no noise. Thanks for the help.
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Old 11-04-2008, 12:12 PM   #17
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We are on the subject of UNIVOLT I want to rebuild mine . Any schematics for a Univolt.????? I have built power supplies before. So I am not a novice. I have time over winter Mine makes noise in the am radio.
any Help
Thanks
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Old 11-04-2008, 03:47 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Mikethefixit View Post
We are on the subject of UNIVOLT I want to rebuild mine . Any schematics for a Univolt.????? I have built power supplies before. So I am not a novice. I have time over winter Mine makes noise in the am radio.
any Help
Thanks
Roger
Those things are notorious for making noise in the radio....even new ones. It's due to poor filtering, and I don't know if it's the design of the DC filter, or bad filter capacitors...either is possible. They are also notorious for making a audible humming noise when working, and that is usually due to loose transformer core plates, and in such case, the transformer must be replaced. It is my "opinion" if you have to replace the transformer, it is better to replace the whole thing with a better quality, more modern unit.
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:10 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd View Post
do not dismiss your univolt just yet.

carefully check each side of the glass fuses for voltage.

1 fuses that look good can be bad

2 the fuse holders have rivits on the back of the panel that can loosen and cause intermittant operation.

3 the spring action of the fuse holders can leesen with time and look perfectly good but not pass current.

4 remember the negative cable is fused and could be open as well!

john
John! Sounds like you know what you are doing (and you're in madison). We care clueless with electric issues... here is what happened to us, can you help?

My hubby & I took “the Ranch” for a weekend trip just prior to putting her to bed for the winter.
Day 1. Got to campground, plugged her in. Ran the heater for about a half hour then all of a sudden it started to blow cold air instead of warm.
Day 2. Came back from a full day/night of sightseeing, etc to VERY dim lights. The outlets all work fine, but no lights in camper.
Day 3. Getting ready to leave, still no lights. Fuses all LOOK fine.

Do you think there is a problem with the inverter? The fuses all appear to be fine.
We put the camper in storage already but are hoping to get a few ideas as to what could be the problem so we are armed with knowledge come spring!

Thanks for your help!
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:17 PM   #20
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Newlys,
The problem could also be with the battery or a battery draw from a short or something left on. There is a lot of past posts on how to check the Univolt is charging the battery.
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