Upgraded the battery lug connections to ones much easier to deal with:
and voila! none of the interior lights worked!
oh boy.
went back a few baby steps and did a continuity test starting at the converter wires.
found no continuity at one of the ground fuses, fuse tested OK, got rid of the shunt (my Safari didn't come with a real dial ammeter anyway, only the Int'ls, according to the manual, no great loss for me now that I knew what it was...
moved that dead ground wire up to fuse #2 position, then sprayed the whole dealie down with contact cleaner, scrubbed all the fuse contacts and stripped wire...checked continuity, OK all around...
oh yeah, I had removed the (ac) switch (the one to turn off the crawfish when they started to boil), and the shunt wires by this time:
installed a VoltMinder from bestconverter:
nice to see what actually is going on, volt-wise, quite a nice 'bit 'o kit' as the brit would say...
fixed the curbside compartment convenience light, went inside and rehooked the furnace, which is really where this whole saga started back when the voltage dropped inside to like, 9 volts and I had to get real about how incredibly little I knew about my rig's electric....
then I recalled in my initial freak-out I started diddling with the (original?) Honeywell thermostat when the furnace started to act weird... I think I tried to adjust the screw (arrow) but have no idea where it was originally...I may have to ask about this in a new thread...
(like the beatles tho, its get-tin bet-ter all the ti-i-i-me....)