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Old 02-24-2010, 05:32 AM   #15
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Hi Rick; Circuit breaker in battery cables are excellent protection for your 12V DC circuitry. It protects batteries from damage by overheating in case of a serious short and protects your converter as well. Chances are you will not draw more than 30 AMP at any given time so that will be fine. Breaker in negative cable as well can protect your electrical system should overhead 230V AC wire fall on the trailer or lightning charge should pass through you trailer. Thanks "Boatdoc"
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Old 02-24-2010, 07:59 AM   #16
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- thanks, doc, converter checks out as A-OK...

- and I'm getting better at Multimeter 101...I really needed the explanation as its really not that complicated once you realize you can extend the multimeter probes with wire and clips...

- tip o' the hat to mexray, dreamstreamr, et al, barts: very clever trick with the beeping circuit breaker! guess I need to insert a self-re-setting type inline as the ones in the auto parts shop didn't seem to have any kind of re-set button...

- my rig does have a 12v circuit breaker panel up in the front dash near the "control panel"... that's 20 feet of wire away from the battery though.. the control panel mostly doesn't light up or do much of anything except manually start the water pump... its on my to-do list of things to investigate..

- if indeed that flat metal plate with the "??" in photo is a shunt that has me wondering if maybe the '69's had a crude ammeter as part of the control panel...time to dig up the owner's manual...
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:25 AM   #17
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That ??? is a shunt for an amp meter and the slit on the left side is the calibration ie loosen the nut and slide and re-tighten to adjust.
The meter is in series with the load in other words the meter will not be like most devices with one side to pos and the other side to neg (ground). That is why you have 2 wires for the meter one goes out to the meter and the other is the return.
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:35 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garry View Post
That ??? is a shunt for an amp meter and the slit on the left side is the calibration ie loosen the nut and slide and re-tighten to adjust.
The meter is in series with the load in other words the meter will not be like most devices with one side to pos and the other side to neg (ground). That is why you have 2 wires for the meter one goes out to the meter and the other is the return.
Wow, in one week I not only learned what a "shunt" is, I actually found one in my Airstream! (wouldn't have done it without you guys: props2ya) Correct me if necessary, but I believe its function is to lower a higher-amp current to a lower-percentage-or-fraction-of-itself so that you don't need a big expensive ammeter to get a readout, right?

Now if that shunt is factory-connected to a meter/readout up in the front dash control panel (tell me, Garry, you awesome-'69-owner, inquiring minds want to know!) then I wouldn't even need to know the "factor" of "lowering" the shunt is doing, I'd just need to get the dang thing working, right?

Seriously, it looks like a beautiful trailer you have there and one day mine told me it wants to look just like yours....one day.
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Old 02-24-2010, 12:43 PM   #19
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My schematic diagram is in MS with the AS and I am in OK so I have to guess at what is going on in your trailer.
I do have the factory amp meter on the control panel at the front of the trailer.

When you swap out the Univolt for a modern converter the amp meter has to have the old fuse panel (shunt) for the amp meter to work.

In looking at the picture of the switch does the wire from the pos side of the battery go into the switch left side and come out of the switch and go to the shunt?
Is there any other wires coming off the pos side of the battery?
Do the light colored wires come from the neg side of the battery?
Where does the black wire with yellow crimp on the right side of the shunt go?
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Old 02-24-2010, 12:53 PM   #20
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Sorry I did not answer you question.

You have it right on the shunt.

My theory;

You have 7 fuses from the top down.

  • amp meter
  • amp meter
  • 12V for water pump and fans
  • ground
  • 12v for lights & radio
  • converter to charge batteries & 12VDC to 3 & 5 above.
  • ground from converter

I think you also have a power on light (light is on when plugged in) on your control panel.
Your amp meter may not work because of a missing wire that was unique to the Univolt
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Old 02-24-2010, 02:59 PM   #21
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When looking for short, there is a low cost tool available at jc whitney among others. It is a short circuit finder item number 1JA 14937. Once you have one, you will never want to be without it when chasing electrical problems
. Cost is $41.95
Jim Mickle TAC IA2
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Old 02-24-2010, 03:19 PM   #22
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found this one, not sure if its the same

SHORT CIRCUIT FINDER - JCWhitney

no instructions shown. analog dial. do you just try to zero in on a smaller and smaller zone with it?
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Old 02-24-2010, 03:24 PM   #23
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instructions shown:

SHORT CIRCUIT FINDER
Easy to use! Hook leads to fuse posts. Induction-type needle on gauge pinpoints shorts. Unit operates through metal posts, panels, etc. No need to remove upholstery or floor coverings. Schematic included. Comes with high-impact plastic storage box.
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Old 02-24-2010, 03:32 PM   #24
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That is the one. It does come with instructions. You clip the unit so it replaces the fuse. It sends a short pulse of voltage down the shorted wire. The meter is run along where the wire might go. Each time there is a pulse, the meter deflects. You follow the pulses until they stop. That is the location of the short. It works thru trim and metal panels!

Jim
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Old 02-26-2010, 03:43 PM   #25
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UPDATE: Feb 26, 2010

Upgraded the battery lug connections to ones much easier to deal with:

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and voila! none of the interior lights worked!

oh boy.

went back a few baby steps and did a continuity test starting at the converter wires.

found no continuity at one of the ground fuses, fuse tested OK, got rid of the shunt (my Safari didn't come with a real dial ammeter anyway, only the Int'ls, according to the manual, no great loss for me now that I knew what it was...

moved that dead ground wire up to fuse #2 position, then sprayed the whole dealie down with contact cleaner, scrubbed all the fuse contacts and stripped wire...checked continuity, OK all around...

oh yeah, I had removed the (ac) switch (the one to turn off the crawfish when they started to boil), and the shunt wires by this time:

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installed a VoltMinder from bestconverter:

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nice to see what actually is going on, volt-wise, quite a nice 'bit 'o kit' as the brit would say...

fixed the curbside compartment convenience light, went inside and rehooked the furnace, which is really where this whole saga started back when the voltage dropped inside to like, 9 volts and I had to get real about how incredibly little I knew about my rig's electric....

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then I recalled in my initial freak-out I started diddling with the (original?) Honeywell thermostat when the furnace started to act weird... I think I tried to adjust the screw (arrow) but have no idea where it was originally...I may have to ask about this in a new thread...

(like the beatles tho, its get-tin bet-ter all the ti-i-i-me....)
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:44 PM   #26
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thermostat

Rick,
we bought a $20 furnace thermostat from the hardware store, a Hunter. Uses a pair of AA batteries, displays current temperature in easy to read LCD characters, and allows you to set your desired temperature. Range is 45 degrees F to way high (we've actually never checked how high it can go).

We also found a setting inside it for hysteresis (the dead-band), so you can adjust how many degrees the room cools before turning the furnace back on again.

This is so much better than the bimetallic coil t-stat original to our trailer, on which we could neither visualize the temperature setting nor see the actual temperature.

You may like your old t-stat, maybe it matches the decor. For us, the new one is worth the $20 just in knowing clearly what the temp setting is. Because, unfortunately, we are chasing 75 degrees unsuccessfully. Everywhere we go it is cold! Well, a little cold anyway.

Good luck!

Jim
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:51 PM   #27
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hi Jim, yes, I'm hearing how much better the new digital t-stats function compared to the groovy looking old ones...I'm gonna give this one ONE more chance to make me happy with the anticipator adjustment...if that doesn't work, well, I'm pretty good at "antiquing" things, I'm sure I could make a new stat fit our decor pretty well..
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:58 PM   #28
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Yeah Rick, a little brushed gold metal trim, and some food color or something to stain a little of the exposed white plastic kinda brownish-yellowed-like -- ANTIQUE!

Go for it,

Jim
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