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Old 04-03-2008, 03:53 PM   #1
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1974 31' Sovereign
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Third wire on the fuse panel help

Search is making my head spin so I thought I'd just ask about the connections for the new converter. The old univolt had three wires connected to the back of the fuse panel. The new converter has only two wires and the fuse panel I am reusing has three connectors. Two are obviously + & - , the third one appears to go to busbar ?? or whatever that is. Is that the 5v for panel lights or maybe a ground? I don't have a picture of the back but this is the panel.
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Old 04-03-2008, 04:10 PM   #2
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I believe that is an ammeter shunt. Don't know how it works.
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Old 04-03-2008, 04:17 PM   #3
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How about reading the notations in the lower left corner and letting us know what they say.

I can make out the TV feed wire at the top left, the the battery feed second left. The flat bar at the bottom looks like an ampmeter shunt on the netural but some more info as to what is printed down in the corner may help

Your new converter will have three wires. The third, Ground Wire, may be connected at the other end of the converter, at the AC line end. It is generally a bare # 12 copper wire directly to the chassis. Since this is a new install you may have to supply that wire.
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Old 04-03-2008, 04:26 PM   #4
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Smile Hi,

I see your white wire got very hot on the fuse panel. Check to make sure the screw is tight.
As to the third wire I do not have an answere for you. I think it was going to the light on control panel that tells you when you have shore power.But what voltage the charger put out or was it AC or Dc. I have no idea. I left it disconected since my shore power indicator never worked. If someone knows let us all know. Or if you have a value of the voltage it would be helpful.
Regards from Russell in sunny and warm Tucson Az.
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Old 04-03-2008, 04:48 PM   #5
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It says ammeter black in the corner.
I fixed that white wire when I remounted the panel. It was very loose.
The xantrex converter has provisions for a ground. I guess I should ground it to the chassis?
I take it the ammeter shunt reads the amps of the battery for the control panel? I'll leave it unconnected for now.

Thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 04-05-2008, 11:13 AM   #6
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Reading more about an ammeter shunt, shouldn't it take a full 12 volts?
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Old 04-05-2008, 11:51 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flashbackk
Reading more about an ammeter shunt, shouldn't it take a full 12 volts?
The shunt actually goes across the meter terminals.

There is 12 volts on those wires with respect to ground, but only a fraction of a volt between the two wires.

I would forget about them, since hardly anyone looks at the meter any way.

Andy
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:44 PM   #8
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Fuse panel

It would appear that the top left 2 terminals come from the pos side of t veh batt and trailer batt. Both are fused hot leads to panel. The brass looking plate would look to be connected in the neg side of batt. on my 69 the convertor wires were fused from convertor to batt. All my pos leads came off the amp shunt going to fuses. The pos batt lead came in on one side and



the three leads going to the fuses split off the other side od the shunt.
The # 3 fuse is in the neg side of trailer batt lead. This is a pic out of a 75 maint manual for a Sovereign that was posted in a thread I had started for my 69 fuse panel. The 2 little wires on the metal plate go directly to the ammeter. I hope this helps. I am including a pic of what I had done with my 69. The red wires are the pos side, I don't have the pos batt cable attached, and the whites all are ground to the batt.
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Old 05-01-2008, 09:20 AM   #9
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( solved ) I thought I'd clean this thread up.
This diagram from my manual cleared up where the neg wire from the converter went. It does go to the shunt post. In this case, it also acts as the neg post for the converter neg. The third wire from my old univolt ( grey ) apparently went to my power on terminal. I guess I can live without that.
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Old 05-01-2008, 09:27 PM   #10
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Yep, when you get rid of the univolt, the replacement converters do not have a connection for the power on circuit which is a 12 volt circuit. You can buy a Walwart or 110 v. A.C. to 12 V. D.C. transformer like you see used for powering low voltage D.C. items, plug it into an available 110 v. A.C. outlet which will be powered when connected to shore power as the transformer powers the power on light. It is a pretty simple fix. You can also plug in a circuit checker in one of the visible outlets and it will show two yellow lights if the 110 circuit is correctly wired.
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