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Old 04-21-2015, 06:15 AM   #15
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1967 26' Overlander
1955 22' Flying Cloud
1964 17' Bambi II
Clear Lake Shores , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,204
My 54 has only 110 volt at present. Electric water heater, LP heater, LP lamp, LP/110 fridge, no water tank or pump.
I am thinking of adding a minimal 12 volt system: converter, battery, and maybe 4 circuits so I can power fridge controls, switch to LP water heater, add water pump, and add a couple lights. No rush as we typically camp with hookups but it would be nice to have the option...

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Old 04-27-2015, 03:05 PM   #16
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2013 30' Classic
Greenwood , Mississippi
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If you choose to eliminate the DC system, you can still have 12 volt electric trailer brakes and break-away brake switch. The trailer brakes are activated by the tow vehicle electrical system and the break-away break switch has it's own little dedicated 12 volt battery. Think about utility trailers, car haulers, cargo trailers, and equipment trailers- they are set up this way.
Everything on modern RVs (lighting, pump, propane detector, furnace fan, bathroom vent, Fantastic Fan, refrigerator control board) is 12 volt except the air conditioning unit, microwave oven, and television, although 12 volt televisions are available.

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Old 04-27-2015, 06:17 PM   #17
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1979 31' Sovereign
1950 22' Liner
Powhatan , Virginia
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Thanks. We have decided to install 12 volt DC in the camper after all. We are probably going to get a DanFoss 12volt fridge to avoid vent holes to the outside which will require it. Since we will be putting in DC, we will run the interior lights from DC. No water pump or fantastic fan. We may put in a bath vent if the open window/ceiling vent doesn't cut it. We bought a second CO2 detector for our 1979 for the rear and just got a 9v battery powered one which should be fine, replacing the battery each spring. Thanks everyone for your input.

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