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Old 04-21-2011, 10:38 PM   #15
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Lew is correct but Lifeline flips back and forth between 14.4 and 14.8 on the bulk voltage. I call them out on it when I see it change and it always goes back to the other. Not sure what they are recommending this month. Ignore chasing their liturature...Lifeline, Universal, Trojan and all the others and just get a multi stage capable of 14+ volts during boost (bulk) and you will save a lot of time and brain cells. Iota should/will charge fastest but PD kits fit the 7300 power centers and do well so its a wash. Only problem with PD is they fall on their butt during the bulk phase and can't maintain constant current but they are reliable. The new Powermax next month is also going to be a great unit.
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:20 AM   #16
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Best Reason NOT to Batteries Inside Trailer

A bit off topic here -

but note the clues from all who have mentioned fried chargers....

Chargers WILL fail, and, when they fail, there is a huge chance of frying the battery (ies).

Frying the battery results in H2S, H2SO4, and possibly SO2 being released INSIDE your Airstream - and then there is always the battery fire issue.

It could happen at night, when you are sleeping, during the day when the pups are inside by themselves, or while the unit is in storage.

Toxic and corrosive gasses have no place INSIDE a trailer (be it Airstream or SOB).

Take a clue from small aircraft manufacturers, even when a battery is mounted in the nacelle or engine bay the battery is in an airtight box and vented to the exterior of the fuselage.

Setting up my soap box here and charging up the megaphone - NEVER, EVER, PERMANENTLY MOUNT UNVENTED BATTERIES IN THE INTERIOR OF YOUR AIRSTREAM.

My opinion only - results may vary.
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:43 AM   #17
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Check and see if your convertor is getting cooling air.

Some are mounted in a box under the bed or a seat that is basically sealed. Though there are intake vents on the front of the convertor the fan blows the air out the back which it can't do if the compartment is sealed. If you use a 2" holesaw you can put a couple of cooling holes in the back of the box area to let air in the bottom and out the top.

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Old 05-02-2011, 07:41 PM   #18
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Hi all. I have a older Airstream 30'er. We travel with it several times a year. I don't keep it plugged in when parked but I do plug it in when I'm working on it and occassionally to keep the batteries charged. As we speak I'm in the process of removing some water damaged floor in the front section for repair. While at it I was going to replace the converter. I had thought it had a Univolt unit and have read that they have some issues and just planned to replace while exposed. I found that I have a Parallax unit. I think it was a 7400 series. But thinking out loud it may be 7300. Not sure. Anyhow, Am I OK to leave what I have in or better to replace it with a multi-stage unit. Right now it's an easy job. Later on it's not bad. Mine is under the front sofa unit.

A related but separate issue is I also need batteries. Mine are not holding a charge and need to be replaced. I don't think it is due to a converter problem, just cheap batteries that I put in 3 years ago. Is it worth going for the big buck replacements or just stay at the lower end ones readily available ?? I don't think I'm ready to jump ship and head for the 6v golf cart type, maybe someday, but not right now. I'm usually staying where I have shore power but would like to know I can handle a few days without if I want to.

Thanks ALL, I value the opinions of every forum contributor. You all have been a great source of support.
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Old 05-03-2011, 02:00 AM   #19
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Roger, I doubt very highly you have a 7300 because that is a power center that Airstream did not use back in 85. It would have been a big pain in the butt to install that and rewire everything to that power center. You could have a 7400 series deckmount if somebody replaced the old Univolt because that is a simple replacement. Regardless, the Parallax is not the answer if you plan to charge and maintain batteries effeciently.
Consider the Iota if you want the best for your Airstream. As of today, there is nothing better. Some like the Inteli-power and we move a buch of them too but nothing compares to the Iota DLS series today.
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:46 AM   #20
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Thank you Randy. Appreciate your thoughts.
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Old 12-09-2013, 03:52 PM   #21
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I'm reading the info on the Paralax with interest... about a month into living in our 2010 International CCD full-time and am hoping to avoid crisis fixes as living in a broken TT needing a quick fix has very little appeal. Wound up replacing pretty much crapped out batteries on the second shakedown trip as we couldn't get more than a day of use and am trying to run down the batteries periodically to keep them healthy, but if I read the background correctly, it's a matter of time before the Paralax converter burns them out or fails outright (or both). Without a fixed sticks & bricks anymore, my array of tools is a bit limited, so I'm wondering about the kits mentioned here and on other threads about installation. Not a doctor, Jim, or an electrician, but it does sound like a doable self install... but would like to know if the tool set necessary might require meters or other items above and beyond basic tools.
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Old 12-09-2013, 05:44 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by almcate View Post
I'm reading the info on the Paralax with interest... about a month into living in our 2010 International CCD full-time and am hoping to avoid crisis fixes as living in a broken TT needing a quick fix has very little appeal. Wound up replacing pretty much crapped out batteries on the second shakedown trip as we couldn't get more than a day of use and am trying to run down the batteries periodically to keep them healthy, but if I read the background correctly, it's a matter of time before the Paralax converter burns them out or fails outright (or both). Without a fixed sticks & bricks anymore, my array of tools is a bit limited, so I'm wondering about the kits mentioned here and on other threads about installation. Not a doctor, Jim, or an electrician, but it does sound like a doable self install... but would like to know if the tool set necessary might require meters or other items above and beyond basic tools.
If you have external power, put your battery disconnect on the "STORE" position to isolate the batteries from the converter. They will not charge in this position (unless you have factory solar), but if you have external power they won't discharge much either. You can periodically switch to the "USE" position to recharge the batteries if they need it.
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Old 12-09-2013, 05:55 PM   #23
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i replaced the Parallex 7300 with a Best 45 amp drop in kit replacement. Went with 45 instead of 55 so as not to overload the Yamaha 1000 watt generator. Used screw drivers and a stripiing tool. Can not recall using my multi meter. I did take photos as a reference while doing the project.
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:09 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by almcate View Post
I'm reading the info on the Paralax with interest... about a month into living in our 2010 International CCD full-time and am hoping to avoid crisis fixes as living in a broken TT needing a quick fix has very little appeal. Wound up replacing pretty much crapped out batteries on the second shakedown trip as we couldn't get more than a day of use and am trying to run down the batteries periodically to keep them healthy, but if I read the background correctly, it's a matter of time before the Paralax converter burns them out or fails outright (or both). Without a fixed sticks & bricks anymore, my array of tools is a bit limited, so I'm wondering about the kits mentioned here and on other threads about installation. Not a doctor, Jim, or an electrician, but it does sound like a doable self install... but would like to know if the tool set necessary might require meters or other items above and beyond basic tools.
Replacing the Parallax garbage constant voltage OEM converter (can you tell that I have no use for them? ) with a fully automatic 3-stage unit from Progressive Dynamics (4600 series is a direct replacement) is easily done with basic hand tools in about a half hour. A constant voltage charger will never fully charge your batteries (which generally require much higher voltages to be fully charged) and will either cause them to overcharge, undercharge, boil the liquid acid out and generally will destroy your batteries prematurely. Cycling the Parallax on/off will STILL not fully charge the batteries, but more than likely will simply prolong their agony!

Also, drawing your batteries down periodically does them no favor, as deep cycle batteries have far longer life when NOT deeply discharged. The number of charge cycles available are totally dependent on the depth of discharge (less is far better), the charging voltages used (temperature compensated charging is preferred for the batteries, especially in widely varying ambient temperatures) and the use of a charging system that has 3-stages: bulk, absorption and float.

Each battery manufacturer and every battery type have very specific charging voltages that the manufacturers recommend. One voltage does not fit ANY of them well. If you are looking for the BEST way to charge your batteries, use a fully programmable inverter/charger like ones from Magnum Energy that can be set for type of battery (pre-programmed for different requirements of the various battery types) length of absorption charge time (dependent on the size of your battery bank) AND full temperature compensation, which automatically adjusts the charging voltages up or down depending on the ambient temperatures of the batteries.
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:49 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjayjensen View Post
i replaced the Parallex 7300 with a Best 45 amp drop in kit replacement. Went with 45 instead of 55 so as not to overload the Yamaha 1000 watt generator. Used screw drivers and a stripiing tool. Can not recall using my multi meter. I did take photos as a reference while doing the project.
Jay
Using the battery disconnect switch in Store mode to avoid overcharging with the converter and charge batteries with TV connection when driving: genius...even clearly discussed in the manual had I bothered to look there. Have a 2000W Champion to charge for extended periods between tows, but still think I see a replacement at some point for the Paralax, tho. One question about the disconnect switch. Without shore power the red pilot light goes out with the rocker switch moved to store but with power connected the pilot light doesn't change whichever way the rocker switch is moved. Assume it really does disconnect, but is there any way to confirm?
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:51 PM   #26
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umm, meant to reply to Dkottum, sorry for the disconnect of quote and reply...
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