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Old 01-24-2013, 10:11 AM   #15
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1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville , New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahab View Post
Ours came with the 3-stage charger.
That's good to hear, some people with new trailers have been saying they still had single stage converters.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:34 AM   #16
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Fort Myers , Florida
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The solution N2916s might be a good choice. The first/second week of Dec I installed an inverter under my couch - one of these: Power Inverter, Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Marine Inverter, PROwatt SW

It supposedly has a 93% effieicency inversion. It was a bit more than attaching it though. I had to run these large wires from the batteries through the coach to the inverter and a circuit breaker. It requires a lot of battery to use as it shuts off at 10 volts and so far it reads 12.5 - 13 watts with fully charged batteries. There is a series of calculations you can use to consider how much power you can use for how long etc. It cost me about $300 to do it all myself. I would still consider the 300 watt plug in SINE type. The modulated type would not work with my Tele so I the sine type of output was needed. I have two heavy duty extension cords to run from the outlets on the inverter. That way it is separate from the trailer system completely.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:26 PM   #17
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2013 22' FB Sport
College Place , Washington
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Well, I have done some digging and crawling around under the bed (who knew that queen bed had a bunk bed underneath!) It appears that there are easy 12v connections and space to place an inverter under the drivers side of the bed. This allows an easy add of an outlet on both ends of the bed for chargers and lights. I also discovered and easy path for power to behind the microwave if I decide to continue down this path.

-Dwight
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:36 PM   #18
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Good for you. I would use the 12v outlet style sine wave type if possible in those plugs as needed.
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:27 PM   #19
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Morada , California
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Since our 'entertainment' (TV, DVD,etc.) chassis' are near the battery/converter/12 volt distribution board, I took this approach to add an Inverter:

1. 1200 watt electronic inverter with two small flat fans to insure enough cooling air for the unit to survive it's under counter location...

2. I bought two small AC power strips with circuit/surge protection...

3. I plugged all the entertainment's AC plugs into one of the power strips.

4. I plugged the AC input plug of the other power strip into the Inverter.

5. I can then alternately plug the entertainment's power strip input plug into the trailers installed AC outlet (shore power) - OR - plug that same plug into one of the sockets of the Inverter's power strip (& turning ON the inverter power switch) when boondocking...

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Old 08-30-2013, 11:34 AM   #20
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2013 22' FB Sport
College Place , Washington
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So yes...I went off the deepend

300 amp hours of batteries
2k sine wave inverter
300 watts of solar
Surge guard
Honda eu3000i handi generator.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:00 PM   #21
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
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The 2014's optional inverter is a sine wave 1000 watt model, which feeds dedicated outlets. The old small microwave I put in my rig takes 70 amps at 12 volts when powered by the inverter. I installed a Tri Metric energy monitoring system to determine that. (about $200) Since I only use it for a couple of minutes at a time to heat things up or defrost something, it works very well for me and does not take much energy from the batteries. Lots of power (the 70 amps) but for a short time, thus little actual energy.

My toaster works the same way, but take 87 amps input to the inverter. But nice toast is worth it.

I upgraded the Paralax converter/charger unit to a Progressive Dynamics three stage one, and that keeps the batteries up full when plugged in. (about $200)

I have put two 100 watt solar panels on the roof, and they feed a Blue Sky MPPT charge controller for when I am out on the road. (Panels were $320 for the pair, controller was about $200, various pieces and parts another $75)

The next and last change will be a set of 6 volt golf cart batteries to replace the group 24 Interstate 12 volt ones which came with the trailer, but for now they are working well. The battery box must be modified to hold the golf cart batteries as they are taller than the group 24's but that is not hard to do.

So, if you boondock and are electrically handy, $1000 will upgrade the electrical system and then another $200 for batteries and you will have a good, state of the art system. Now remember the 2014's optional inverter is 1000 watts, while the earlier ones were only 600 watts.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:20 PM   #22
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College Place , Washington
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The Sports don't have an inverter option, so I got to start from scratch
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Old 05-08-2015, 01:14 PM   #23
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2015 16' Sport
1995 21' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: Jul 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodsterinfl View Post
The solution N2916s might be a good choice. The first/second week of Dec I installed an inverter under my couch - one of these: Power Inverter, Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Marine Inverter, PROwatt SW

It supposedly has a 93% effieicency inversion. It was a bit more than attaching it though. I had to run these large wires from the batteries through the coach to the inverter and a circuit breaker. It requires a lot of battery to use as it shuts off at 10 volts and so far it reads 12.5 - 13 watts with fully charged batteries. There is a series of calculations you can use to consider how much power you can use for how long etc. It cost me about $300 to do it all myself. I would still consider the 300 watt plug in SINE type. The modulated type would not work with my Tele so I the sine type of output was needed. I have two heavy duty extension cords to run from the outlets on the inverter. That way it is separate from the trailer system completely.
Rodsterinfl, I'm about to install the same inverter in my 16' Sport and would love to hear more about how you did the wiring. Was it difficult to thread the cables through the coach wall? Where did you place the fuse? I've heard lots of conflicting advice about attaching a ground to the chassis. What did you do?
Thanks!
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