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Old 06-19-2011, 09:57 AM   #1
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Simple (ha ha) Intellipower install question

Just bought an Intellipower 9260 to replace the Univolt in our 1984 Sovereign. No problems with the Univolt, just figured now was a good time while we do other mods.
Univolt has 3 wires (plus the power cord) Red is positive, White is negative and Black is labeled as "power on indicator light". But does it go to neg or pos? (I did not want to tear up the Univolt to figure it out, someone may want it)
I do have an ac power indicator light on the display panel over the sofa up front but it has not worked since I owned the trailer. I connected the black lead to the negative terminal, nothing happened to the indicator light. I am a little leery of connecting it to the positive terminal. How afraid should I be, and do I even need it?
Pic on left top is old and new converters on the ground outside the trailer. pic on top right is the new one with a test install. last pic is just for fun, My wifes birthday cake yesterday.
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:21 AM   #2
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The intellipower has two hot outputs and two grounds. They are high power(amps). You should only use one of each.
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:55 AM   #3
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If your light has not ever worked have tried replacing the bulb? I have installed several Intellipower 9260 and not had any problems. If it was mine I would leave that wire disconnected. You don't need it for the new Intellipower. The little charge wizard will tell you if the Intellipower is on or not.
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Old 06-19-2011, 11:16 AM   #4
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This has been discussed several times. One key bit of knowledge is that the indicator light is to show that the trailer is plugged into AC power. See this thread (for example, there are many), particularly post 2. (http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...tor-41379.html) Like you, my light never worked anyway. I keep a voltage meter plugged into the outlet in the galley, so it's obvious whether I have (correct) power anyway.

Once that was out of the way (by doing nothing at all), the install is extremely simple. Positive to the positive side of the fuse panel, negative to negative, plug it in, done!
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Old 06-19-2011, 11:56 AM   #5
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Thanks to all. Black wire disappears and I am good to go.
Concur on the volt meter in the galley too.
see...told y'all it was simple!
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:46 PM   #6
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sounds like you are set, I replaced my univolt in the 73 several years ago with an Intellipower and it has performed flowlessly.....
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Old 06-19-2011, 02:42 PM   #7
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ahhhhh, but things never quite work perfectly it seems. Now if I walk thru the trailer and turn on all lights and the ac fan (not the ac, just the fan) I trip the breaker in the back. And the Intellipower internal fan has never even come on once. I quit for today. too much fun. And, it is like a million degrees down here in Corpus Christi today so time for some ac and maybe even a cold beer. Yep I feel better already.
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Old 06-19-2011, 03:27 PM   #8
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The breaker is too small to have a 60 amp inverter and the AC fan on the same breaker. Both the AC fan and the Converter have relatively high "in rush current"when they are turned on. The AC fan is fed by the same circuit breaker that the AC compressor is fed from so if and when you go to the "air condition" mode your problem will get worse.
I would recommend feeding the converter from a different circuit breaker. Perhaps the one that feeds the electrical outlet for the refer since it (the refer) will only require a few hundred watts when on electric.
Are you using the same 120 v AC power source that the Univolt used? If so there may be a different problem. What size is the breaker?
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Old 06-19-2011, 05:12 PM   #9
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The AC should be on its own breaker having nothing to to with the circuit that the converter uses. The only thing that is on the same breaker in as the AC in my Excella is the microwave, and there is a switch under the galley top cabinet that allows (or forces depending on your point of view) you to choose which will run at any given time.

In my Excella, the outlet under the front window between the battery boxes is the one for the converter. The rest of the outlets on the same breaker, the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) one, are in the back and the outside and have nothing to do with the AC. Some people have reported problems with InteliPower units and them tripping the GFCI breaker. I have had no problems, but you may want to consider replacing the GFCI breaker.

By the way, does the AC fan continue to run after the back breaker trips?
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Old 06-19-2011, 05:31 PM   #10
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Here's what I use to 'indicate' that the AC's hooked up and working properly... Electric Receptacle Tester

I plug it into the outlet in the Galley - a quick look to see if the shore power is configured correctly as well...
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:06 PM   #11
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Some people have reported problems with InteliPower units and them tripping the GFCI breaker. I have had no problems, but you may want to consider replacing the GFCI breaker.

By the way, does the AC fan continue to run after the back breaker trips?[/QUOTE]

No, ac fan shuts down. The breaker that trips is the one on bottom right (with big red test button) That seems to be the one to try and replace I imagine. It was a fun day, as I was reconnecting the batteries (converter was not plugged in) the wind picked up my shade awning and tried to send it to the next county. I grabbed it but dropped the hot terminal wire to one of the batteries. A couple sparks later and I had lost two 50amp fuses. Once I replace those I will plug it back in, but replacing the GFCI would seem to be the next try.
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:09 PM   #12
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TG Twinkie, you can see the size of the breaker that is tripping in the above post. GFCI 15 amps. And since I did not change anything except the converter, I have to imagine it is something new.
MexRay, I will pick one up tomorrow. Cannot beat the price.
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:54 PM   #13
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The one with the red test button is the GFCI one alright. The thing is, it should have absolutely nothing to do with the AC fan. That big pair of 20s on the top should provide all power to the AC. The handles on mine have a bar connecting the two to ensure that they trip as one.
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:21 PM   #14
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I sent a note to the company I bought it from and they recommended trying it on a different circuit. But this is the way it has always been connected before so it is a bit baffling. (and I would have no idea how to connect it to a different circuit anyway) Converter is in the front and panel with breakers is in the back. I can try replacing the GFCI breaker, but not sure if I should go bigger or not. OK to change that to a 20 or 30 amp without hurting something else? I will take any recommendations, based on some kind of sound logic, (-: Electricity to me is magic.
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:31 PM   #15
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You need to find out why the AC fan is affected by the GFCI breaker. It should not be on this breaker. This, in my opinion, is the problem.

If you don't turn on the AC fan, does the GFCI breaker trip or is it OK?

In response to your other questions, no you can't just install bigger breakers. They are sized to protect the current carrying capabilities of the wires connected to them. The same thing is true of 12v fuses. The idea is to keep the wires from melting due to overload.

By the way, nice birthday cake. Happy belated birthday!

Don't get discouraged, we'll figure this out between all of us.
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:47 PM   #16
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I agree: don't increase the size of the breaker.
When you say the fan goes off on the AC when the breaker trips. I think there is something fishy about that.
If you can unplug the converter and run the fan without tripping the breaker. Check to see if you can run the AC in the "cooling" mode. That means that both the compressor and fan motors are running. Then turn the circuit breakers off one at a time and see which one shuts off the compressor motor; you should then check to see if the fan motor is off as well.
As far as I know there should only be one circuit breaker that feeds the AC unit providing power to the fan motor and compressor motor.
If you remove the interior shroud on you AC unit, you may find an electrical drawing posted somewhere one the sheetmetal inside. If you can get a photo of the drawing and post it here we can determine if 2 breakers are required.
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:20 PM   #17
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DC wiring

In looking at the photo you posted of the converter. I have a question or two.
Do you know where the RED, BLACK and WHITE wires go that you have connected?
The reason I ask is that most trailers use the black wire for the 12 volt DC positive and the white wire is the 12 volt DC negative/common. You can verify this by going to the 12 volt fuse panel and see what color wires feed it.
Once you verify the colors, then the third color is probably the one that goes to the monitor panel. What ever color it turns out to be for the indicator light should be connected to the positive output of the converter. Because the indicator light will already be connected to the negative/common side just like all other 12 volt devices in the trailer. You may be able to determine the wire color of the indicator light by opening the monitor panel to see what the wire colors are.
Judging from the size of the three wires, the third wire does more than just power the indicator light. It probably powers the entire monitor panel. I don't have a monitor panel in my trailer so I only making an educated guess. What all is the monitor panel doing?
Battery info? Tank level info? Pump power? etc.
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:24 PM   #18
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My Excella is only a year older than you Airstream, and the breaker boxes are identical except that mine has a bar connecting the two big breakers so they respond as one. I'm guessing that yours did too originally. Mine also has one of those little blue stickers like you have at the bottom of your photo. It looks like the one on top of yours has fallen off. Mine still has one that says "AIR COND" above the twinned large breakers. See the photo I have attached below. (The photo is large enough that you can read everything if you click on it to enlarge it.) These two breakers that act as one supply all the power to the AC system.

If you are getting power to any of the AC system from another circuit, something is wrong.
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:54 PM   #19
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"As far as I know there should only be one circuit breaker that feeds the AC unit providing power to the fan motor and compressor motor". That's why I come to this site, you learn something everyday.


The photo clears up a lot. If the bar is missing maybe the PO has done some "creative modifications. Further investigation will be required. Since it doesn't make sense that the fan shuts off when the GFI trips.
UNLESS the fan is thermostatically controlled thru the monitor panel and the 12 volt power for the thermostat is provided by the converter.
Just a guess. Is there a good battery in the trailer? Do the 12 volt lights work with the converter unplugged?
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:11 PM   #20
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You folks are great. Will look more tomorrow!
1) Will not increase breaker size
2) Yep, panel is tank levels, battery condition, ac indicator light
3) I actually think the bar is there connecting those two breakers up top but will have to re-look
4) Not sure where colored wires actually go, but re-hooked them according to directions on old univolt. It said red was positive and white neg. I disconnected the black line but can reconnect to positive tomorrow
5) 1st time the breaker tripped I had nothing on but the converter. Turned on an overhead light and ---pop
6) afterwards it popped when I walked around turning on everything.
7) And I absolutely love the PO's, but there is a lot of black electrical tape in this trailer..
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