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Old 07-21-2019, 05:53 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by leedav View Post
You'd think they didn't think of it. Attachment 347256
I did when I made my battery disconnect.
Since I was starting over, I used 2 AWG wire, and crimped new terminals using a hydraulic crimper. Added two layers of adhesive heat shrink.
I made the new cables just long enough to clear the filler caps.
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Old 07-21-2019, 08:24 PM   #16
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Hydraulic crimper? New tool? Ooh.
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Old 07-22-2019, 05:35 AM   #17
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Hyddraulic crimper is the way to go. Got one when I added a second battery bank for 2kW inverter. Think it was only ~$30 or so on Amazon. Harbor Freight sells them as well.
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Old 07-23-2019, 07:47 AM   #18
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Hi

If you are going to do 12V electrical work on your RV, a hydraulic crimper is indeed a useful tool to own. The Amazon cheap versions are not perfect. They do win the "bang for the buck" contest. The big advantage is being able to crimp to the end of a wire in fairly tight places. (Think in terms of a cable you have just pulled behind the wall ....).

Bob
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Old 07-23-2019, 08:20 AM   #19
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Easier to just order the cables pre-made from pkys.com. Order on Monday and they show up on Friday. Pat
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Old 07-23-2019, 08:21 AM   #20
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Here's mine. Amazon $54. 16 ton.
It's effortless.
I considered the HF, and maybe they come down the same assembly line in China. The HF reviews complained the dies were marked in no particular standard. The Amazon is marked in Square MM, which is a European standard but can be converted easily to AWG. When in doubt, I went with a larger die and then went smaller if possible.


This is not for small gauge wire. The SMALLEST dies are for 6AWG!
The largest will do 4-aught, which is welding cables or Locomotive wiring.

A little research and you quickly discover you can't afford the nice US made professional crimpers. (and you don't need them to do a good job once in a while)

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Easier to just order the cables pre-made from pkys.com. Order on Monday and they show up on Friday. Pat
You're right, but I was changing the terminals on wiring that went into the Airstream, like the converter.
I heard some local battery places would do a crimp on site, so I went to Interstate Battery's big facility, and they looked at me like I was nuts.
Besides, I love tools, so.....
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Old 07-23-2019, 08:29 AM   #21
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i have the same model

it works very well
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Old 07-24-2019, 07:43 AM   #22
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Mine is painted orange and I didn't get the little chain to attach the pin to the tool

Indeed the dies run out at number 6. My other non-hydraulic stuff is fine to number 10. That sort of leaves a gap at number 8. So far that has not been an issue.

I have no idea if it actually works with the largest dies they include and no plans to find out. I also would make no claims that the seals will last for a hundred years. Mine came with spare seal rings so I suppose I could work out how to rebuild it. With no diagrams or instructions (how much fluid ???) that might be a bit fun.

I have used the "real thing" from various outfits. Indeed having dies that correctly match the fittings you are crimping is a *much* better approach. The as yet un-mentioned gotcha there is that the tool *and* the lugs need to come from the same outfit. The "real thing" lugs also are a bit expensive .....

If you use any of theses tools a lot (and yes it *is* a lot) the dies will wear. You then either replace the dies or send them to the shop to be re-ground. The cost of that process the last time I had to do it on the "real" tool was more than the Amazon gizmo costs.

Needless to say, I'm quite happy that work paid for all their fancy tools and I didn't have to fund that process.

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Old 07-24-2019, 09:18 AM   #23
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I get that tools are fun. Have a bunch and carry too many. However, there is a difference in the performance of the low cost tools and the designed to crimp for best electrical contact specific lug tools.

IMO, the cost of the specific tools is beyond the justification of a casual user. They are not beyond the scope of cable production operations. Consequently, upgrade cabling might be best configured to route clear of hidden structure such as walls or under floors that requires in-place lugging.

Since production lugging is generally higher specification than a DIY field lug operation, in-place lugging might not be the best approach for long term use.

We all make appropriate compromise as we define that need. Just understand that there is a compromise and do the investigation necessary to achieve the specification you require. Pat
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Old 07-24-2019, 11:29 AM   #24
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I get that tools are fun. Have a bunch and carry too many. However, there is a difference in the performance of the low cost tools and the designed to crimp for best electrical contact specific lug tools.



IMO, the cost of the specific tools is beyond the justification of a casual user. They are not beyond the scope of cable production operations. Consequently, upgrade cabling might be best configured to route clear of hidden structure such as walls or under floors that requires in-place lugging.



Since production lugging is generally higher specification than a DIY field lug operation, in-place lugging might not be the best approach for long term use.



We all make appropriate compromise as we define that need. Just understand that there is a compromise and do the investigation necessary to achieve the specification you require. Pat


As much as I love tools (complete wood shop) the analysis for me was to buy the cables. Also I don’t buy anything from HF that can fail under pressure. Had a fitting wrench explode in my face. Once was enough.
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:30 AM   #25
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Hi

Any time you use a tool, you have to understand what you are doing. A hammer does not drive nails all by its self. None of this is rocket science and the places that make up cables certainly are not NASA certified. The main risk with one of these cheap tools is "let's re-do that one". There is a cost, but not a giant one.

Bob
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:11 AM   #26
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Since production lugging is generally higher specification than a DIY field lug operation, in-place lugging might not be the best approach for long term use.
I thought so too, until I saw some of Airstream's work.
First, they used 6 AWG wire for jumpers. Some of the crimps were done with a "Hammer crimp" That's where a "V" tool is placed against the terminal and it's pounded in. I'll take my $50 hydraulic crimper any day.
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:27 AM   #27
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Hi

Probably cheaper to replace the cables than convert the batteries to AGM's so you don't have to check them

Bob


I always believed AGM batteries need to be inside. Does anyone have experience to the contrary? I have two Crown AGM 6 volts behind the sofa and would like to add two more but there is not enough room. Would have to fabricate a custom box because my rig has the brake actuated pump where batteries would normally be.
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Old 07-25-2019, 01:40 PM   #28
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I thought so too, until I saw some of Airstream's work. -- snip -- done with a "Hammer crimp" -- snip -- I'll take my $50 hydraulic crimper any day.
You don't have to look very far to see improvements AS should be making in their manufacturing operation. I really enjoy visiting an effective factory. The AS factory tour in 2015 was a significant disappointment.

A hammer crimp off their line is an example of no qualified manufacturing engineering presence on the mfg floor.

With respect to your crimper - Your rig, your money, your specification, your choice. Better than existing is certainly an upgrade and worth doing. Pat
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