Second 110 volt access point?

[Foiled Again]

A couple of years ago someone stole my 30 amp cord. Got through a chilly night by running a heavy extension cord out thru the fantastic fan, over the side and down to the 20 amp plug on the pedestal. The hard part was getting it down from the roof. If sister Karen hadn't been there it would have been nearly impossible, and as it was, the partly open vent cover could have been miserable if it had rained.

So now, I want an easy, dry safe way to use an extension cord... like I needed last Friday when the converter went pffft! Yes one can open a window and poke the screen out of one corner... and only 100,000 mosquitos will find the portal. Going under the door and slamming it om the cord... will bend the door.
I have run a separate extension cord to the refrigerator plug in the past. Keeps the 30 amp breaker from flipping...

How hard would it be to go thru the back wall of the cabinet under the fridge with a power strip cord hanging out the back, and the power strip itself residing IN that cabinet? Extension cord to the post and I am not praying that the 12 volt and propane will last until the mobile repair guy gets here. Why does stuff like this happen when you've got to prep food for a potluck and a skimpy 1/2 tank of propane left?

What happened this time?
So, snap, and I lose my 110 volt alternating current. Internal Circuit breakers are fine. Breakers at post are fine. 110 circuit tester light at pole works fine. Next camper has power. My power cord works in his trailer. End of my diagnostic skillset. Wiskey tango foxtrot, gotta call the mobile repair guy. Should marry one. It would be cheaper.
He is booked for next week, but has scheduled an a/c install for tomorrow morning and will put that off if threatened downpour occurs.
The rain gods are kind. 9 am he arrives. By 10 I have cold air ... and another shower to get rid of the "smell like goat" whiff caused by sleeping in 99% humidity at 80° with fantastic fans providing some relief.
Problem? Wiring on transfer switch came loose. All good now.

[Foiled Again]

And another thing... WHY have two 30 amp plug ins? And the transfer switch? Can't a generator use the regular 30 amp cord? Honda has an adaptor that works.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Foiled Again

And another thing... WHY have two 30 amp plug ins? And the transfer switch? Can't a generator use the regular 30 amp cord? Honda has an adaptor that works.

The idea is if you have a generator in the bed of your truck, you can use the front plug in for the shore power cord to connect to the generator without using an extension cord, or taking the generator out of the bed. The 30 amp cord that comes with the trailer is too short to reach from the rear of the trailer to the center of the truck bed.

[Adventure.AS]

When a 30 amp outlet isn't available, I use a $20 15 amp male to 30 amp female (twist lock) to run a 20 amp/110 volt, 10 gauge heavy duty extension cord to the 30 amp inlet on the trailer. I have never seen one at an RV store, but purchased from Amazon.

[BeSerious]

Originally Posted by Adventure.AS

Attachment 348573

When a 30 amp outlet isn't available, I use a $20 15 amp male to 30 amp female (twist lock) to run a 20 amp/110 volt, 10 gauge heavy duty extension cord to the 30 amp inlet on the trailer. I have never seen one at an RV store, but purchased from Amazon.

That’s exactly what I used to run our new NEST right after we got it home from the dealer. It worked great.

I measured the amps at the breaker panel. With this adapter plugged into a 20 amp socket, we could run the A/C OR microwave but not both at the same time. Of course I made sure that the 20 circuit had NO other loads. This temporary “fix” let me take my time installing the “RV style” breaker box with a 30 amp breaker/RV-plug and a 20 amp breaker/plug.

[Foiled Again]

Originally Posted by Adventure.AS

Attachment 348573

When a 30 amp outlet isn't available, I use a $20 15 amp male to 30 amp female (twist lock) to run a 20 amp/110 volt, 10 gauge heavy duty extension cord to the 30 amp inlet on the trailer. I have never seen one at an RV store, but purchased from Amazon.

The CONVERTER was not working. Plug anything into a non-operating converter and it is still dead. I needed a work AROUND the dead converter.

[Mollysdad]

If I wanted to get an extension cord inside, I'd try under the bed to the outside storage, under the front seating area to the front storage, or behind the fridge and drop through to near the converter where the wires for the fridge already go.

[SteveSueMac]

First. I love the question (no answer but I asked something similar - could you run your AC from the pedestal and converter with 30A cord and all other 110/120V stuff off a regular extension cord to the 15A plug that usually accompanies a 30A plug on the pedestal).

As for why 2 30A inputs and a transfer switch, I was told if you plug your genny in the front while plugged in to shore on the side, use of one will prevent the use of the other from over-powering your trailer. Not sure if that’s accurate but it’s what I was told when my transfer switch had to be replaced.

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

As for why 2 30A inputs and a transfer switch, I was told if you plug your genny in the front while plugged in to shore on the side, use of one will prevent the use of the other from over-powering your trailer. Not sure if that’s accurate but it’s what I was told when my transfer switch had to be replaced.

The issue is you can run either the shore power or the generator but not both. If the generator were connected to shore power while not running, it would likely be damaged. If the generator were running, it would not be synchronized with the shore power and during part of the cycle the shore power would be pushing power into the generator and on the other part of the cycle the generator would be being shorted by the shore power. In all of this the trailer would be seeing low voltage and crazy frequency, but not "overpowered".



Al

[Alumaholic]

Just because the converter dies doesn't mean you lose power to you AC receptacles throughout the Airstream.
If it tripped the breaker when it died, simply unplug the dead converter from its AC receptacle, reset the breaker and use all the AC power you want.
"Plug anything into a non-operating converter and it is still dead." is not a true statement.
A converter converts 120 VAC to 12 VDC to provide power to you DC lights, water pump, furnace, etc.
It has nothing to do with the 120 VAC receptacles throughout your Airstream.
Hope this helps.

[Al and Missy]

Op's problem was that there was a loose connection at the transfer switch. No power was getting into the trailer.


Al

[BeSerious]

This is the 2nd loose connector on a 30 amp circuit that I’ve read about in a last few days

It’s making me wonder just how safe the electrical system is in my new NEST. And where exactly I should check for loose 30 amp electrical connections? I’m guessing the key areas to check would be behind the external shore power plug. And behind and/or inside the electrical panel below the microwave. Anywhere else?

[kidjedi]

I created a pass through box that seals inside and out. I use it most often for Cat6, but also for extension cord, etc.



http://beahmstream.com/creating-an-e...ss-through-box