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Old 12-16-2010, 09:28 PM   #1
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1965 20' Globetrotter
Winnipeg , Manitoba
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Replacing original Univolt in '65 Globetrotter

Happy holidays everyone!

We've been having problems with out electrical as of late in the trailer. I've blown four of the old style AG fuses already, as well, have had intermittent lights not working inside the trailer. None of the electrical has ever been replaced. I've decided to start the process, hoping for now to be able to replace the Univolt and see if that solves the problem for now. I've got only moderate electrical experience, but with help from a friend can likely do the swap out.
I've been looking at vintagetrailersupply and as I've been very happy with them in the past, am looking at their Progressive Dynamics 4045: 45 Amp Converter + AC/DC Distribution Panel. I think this would do the trick for our unit, anyone have any experience or advice on whether or not this would be a good match. We don't have a heavy electrical load when in use so I think this would be more than enough.
Thanks for any advice.
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:24 PM   #2
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It's worth updating your converter/charger

The univolt can fry your battery. But I am not sure that will solve all or
any of your problems. It sounds like you might have a short and an intermitant break in the wiring of your electrical system. As far as the lights go, that might be a simple fix. Several of my running lights just needed the screw that connects the ground to the body to be tightened.
Some of my interior lights have a plug connection tucked into the walls. ( I am assuming for ease of factory assembly and ease of replacement). If they come completely loose they can dissapear into the wall. I ended up giving up on those and soldiering them.
I got my volt meter and went over every thing. I think mice got to some of my wiring.
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:30 PM   #3
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Oh And........

I had a 45 amp converter put in my 20 footer.
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:35 PM   #4
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1965 20' Globetrotter
Winnipeg , Manitoba
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Thanks for the above input. Yes, I'm concerned that there may also be a short somewhere. Another issue is that our trailer doesn't a 12 volt battery, and it appears the previous owner did away with some of the 12 volt wiring where the battery should have been situated. My thought was that for the fairly minimal cost, starting out with a new converter would ensure that at least that part of the equation is functioning correctly, and then as the wiring is being done, I can test as I go and see where everything else is at.
I had taken the original reading lights at the front of the trailer out to replace as they had loosened as seems to be a common issue over time, and found what appeared to be what I though was an odd setup. I now hook them back up to the original lights for testing and they won't work at all. Good thing it's winter here and this gives me some time to figure out what's going on I suppose...
Sounds like the 45amp should be fine for us.
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:56 PM   #5
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I replaced the univolt in my 68 TW with an Iota 55amp with the IQ4 smart charge option. I purchased it on the recommendation of Randy at Best Converters. I ask him about an AC/DC panel and he said that if the tailer still had the original aluminum wiring that he could not recommend it. He suggested that I just keep the original "Central Control", which I did. I have been very pleased with the Iota unit. Might want to give Randy a call.
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:06 PM   #6
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1965 20' Globetrotter
Winnipeg , Manitoba
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Thanks '68 will look into the Iota. Funny thing is, I have checked several wiring locations within the trailer, and don't see any aluminum wiring. I thought I had read somewhere that some of the older trailers, depending on where they were assembled could come with either aluminum or copper. From what I've seen so far, we've got copper.

'68 when you speak of the original "central control" are you talking about what is basically a terminal block that I've found near where the battery should go, or about part of the original Univolt?
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:47 PM   #7
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No, the "Control Center" was a box with all the DC breakers inside and all the switches for the the pump, tank levels, etc. on the outside. It had a night light and a clock too. In the 68's it sat above the fridge. Not sure how to load a pic but if you are interested, pm me and I'll send you a pic. Good news that your wiring is copper.

Merry Christmas
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:30 PM   #8
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If you have 12v automotive style circuit breakers near the univolt they may be the problem. Mine were bad and caused my 12v lights to work intermitantly. Adios, John
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandolindave View Post
Several of my running lights just needed the screw that connects the ground to the body to be tightened.
Some of my interior lights have a plug connection tucked into the walls. ( I am assuming for ease of factory assembly and ease of replacement). If they come completely loose they can dissapear into the wall. I ended up giving up on those and soldiering them.
I got my volt meter and went over every thing. I think mice got to some of my wiring.
Please mention what model and year you have? If it's convenient, perhaps you could put it in your profile...?
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Old 12-19-2010, 06:47 PM   #10
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1965 20' Globetrotter
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No 12v auto circuits near the Univolt. Still have the old glass fuses all around... part of the reason I'd like to replace the electrical components.
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