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12-23-2016, 03:14 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1989 34' Excella
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 40
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Replacing converter/charger: What's this cylinder? Do I need it?
In my '89 Excella 34', I'm replacing my old MagnaTek converter/charger with a Boondocker BD126C converter/charger (60 amp 4-stage) from Best Converter:
http://www.bestconverter.com/Boondoc...l#.WF2cglUrK9I
It looks to be a direct replacement - take three wires out of the old one, plug them into the new one. Bu I'm wondering about that capacitor-looking thing on the red wire leaving the converter, that distributes to the batteries and the 12V panel.
My Airstream is in a 'permanent shore power' situation (used as a guest house), and I'd like to take the batteries out altogether to reclaim some space in the living room.
So, what is that capacitor thing anyway?
Can I take it out altogether and go directly from the converter to the 12V panel?
Or do I need to keep it in line on the red wire?
Thanks in advance --
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12-23-2016, 04:58 PM
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#2
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2 Rivet Member
2015 27' Flying Cloud
1984 31' Sovereign
Kingwood
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 49
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Looks like a battery disconnect switch to me
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12-23-2016, 04:58 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2002 30' Classic S/O
Fleming Island
, Florida
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,673
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That sure looks like your battery disconnect switch, not a capacitor, but the wiring you pictured is not typical. I have seen the switch wired two ways: between the batteries and everything else, and between the power panel and everything else.
If you are not planning on batteries, it is largely superfluous. I would suggest, however, that if you permanently reclaim the battery space you will likely be reducing the value of the trailer by limiting its use to shore power only. Also, the battery(ies) are used to operate the trailer brakes in the event of a disconnect from the tow vehicle, which may (I don't know) be a legal issue, particularly if you have an accident. If you really want to do it, your middle drawing, leaving it out, is the way to do it.
All of the above, just my opinion, YMMV.
Al
__________________
“You cannot reason someone out of a position they have not been reasoned into"
Al, K5TAN and Missy, N4RGO WBCCI 1322
2002 Classic 30 Slideout -S/OS #004
2013 Dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 Megacab Cummins
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12-24-2016, 06:22 AM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1989 34' Excella
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 40
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Thank you! I'll remove the battery disconnect switch and wire directly to the 12V panel.
Also, I'm engineering my battery removal so it's completely reversible, should a new owner wish to reinstate it.
Thanks again!
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12-24-2016, 07:22 AM
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#5
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Rivets?
1992 29' Excella
2010 22' Interstate
Van By The River
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,363
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MohawkDaddy,
Seems like you found the answer you needed regarding the switch but I still have questions. I hope you have time to answer:
If your trailer is being used as a guesthouse and permanently attached to shore power, and you're going as far as removing the batteries and the battery disconnect switch...
Why are you removing the existing converter/charger and replacing it with a more modern multi-stage converter/charger? The old converter/charger you're removing probably makes and audible hum. Is the humming noise the reason for replacing the existing unit? Does it not work (i.e. doesn't produce voltage)?
Otherwise, your new layout doesn't have batteries so you won't benefit from the multi-stage charging features of the new converter/charger.
__________________
Lucius and Danielle
1992 29' Excella Classic / 2010 Interstate
2005 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 8.1L
2018 GMC Sierra K1500 SLT, 6.2L, Max Trailering
Got a cooped-up feeling, gotta get out of town, got those Airstream campin' blues...
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12-24-2016, 08:30 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1984 27' Airstream 270
Scotia
, New York
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,082
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I am not sure about the 89's converter but in earlier converter/chargers, they were meant to only be used with batteries attached so that the DC output is the correct voltage and to reduce ripple & fluctuation from turning high draw loads on & off.
That is definitely a battery switch and if it not causing problems, I would leave it in the circuit.
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12-24-2016, 10:53 AM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
2015 25' Flying Cloud
GILBERT
, Arizona
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 377
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You should call Airstream first and run it by them.
__________________
David & Nancy Ames
WBCCI # 9403 -- AIR # 95597
2015 FC 25' RB
2013 Chevy Tahoe LTZ
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12-24-2016, 12:05 PM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
1977 Argosy 24
Gilbert
, Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MohawkDaddy
Thank you! I'll remove the battery disconnect switch and wire directly to the 12V panel.
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I'll take the disconnect from you. When my Argosy is parked and the outside temp falls below 55 (the lowest setting on my thermostat), the furnace fan kicks in and drains my battery.
__________________
Cheers....John
1977 24ft Argosy - sold.
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12-24-2016, 12:59 PM
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#9
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:SPACE A" S/O 11 Air19745
2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,766
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I have a slightly used converter: Parallax Power Supply 4455TC(S) rated at 55amps, that Lew took out of my trailer when we went full solar earlier this year. It is temperature compensated, but you would not need that feature if you were not going to use batteries. It is yours for $ 100.00 plus shipping at my FedEx discount.
guskmg
817-292-7062
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12-25-2016, 06:21 AM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1989 34' Excella
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 40
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Thanks for the thoughts, all.
Yes, the old unit hummed like crazy, and threw off an incredible amount of heat. Even the wooden box enclosing it was quite warm to the touch. In Texas, pumping heat into the living room in the summer is counterproductive.
I already installed the Boondocker and it's working like a champ and doesn't hum at all. I can now build a much smaller vented enclosure and push my sofa right up to the wall.
As to upcycling the old one - it's really seen better days. Again, it hums loudly, gets really hot, and all the internals are really rusty. Plus I drilled out all the rivets to get the cover off so I could cut off the output wires where they connected to the innards (to gain a little more length to work with when installing the new one).
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