Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie
I would use a stand alone fuse holder and use the same size fuse as the Univolt. Then connect the load side of the fuse to the positive side of the system. The following will be connected together in some fashion.
House battery positive.
Converter positive.
Fuse panel positive.
Charge line from TV positive.
In order to get the ammeter to function you will need to wire the shunt in series with the negative side of the system. Along with running 2 wires (which should exist) to the shunt from the meter. Note the 2 small (red and black) at the bottom of the shunt.
I don't have a control panel in my coach. So can't be of help there. Don't know what is on an old control panel. If you use the shunt it must be mounted on an isolated surface.
|
So to pare this down a bit, I should be connecting the #8 blue stranded (TV charge) to the + lug next to battery + (red in photo of new converter), and the #8 white stranded (main chassis ground labeled as load?) to the - lug with black and white wires in it at bottom of pic of new unit? I will use a 40 amp fuse on the TV charge line.
My apologies for the new unit pic being upside down. I uploaded it 4x with editing it to be showing both ways before uploading and it still shows inverted.
For the control panel, I presume I can just run the grey “power on” lead to one of the
12v outputs with a 4 amp fuse?
The “shunt” is what I’m not sure on. Do people typically drill out the rivets on the univolt and remove the metal plate the small red and black wires go to? I’m reading this as the ammeter? I would like the control panel to be fully functional, but I usually install a USB charger that has an LED volt meter built in so the ammeter would be surplus, and I could live with it not working.