I'm planning on replacing the Univolt in a 1971 overlander. I would like to keep the fuse panel that is part of of the Univolt can someone tell me the best way to do this. Any photos would be great. Thanks.
It's not difficult. You need to make sure the 120 volt is unhooked (duh), and either mark the wire locations or take a photo of the panel before disassembly.
There are a couple of wires that won't go back on the panel, as they will no longer do anything. One is the wire for the power on indicator light, the other two are for the amp gauge.
You could probably hook the leads back up for the amp gauge, but way back in the olden days of yore we had issues of cars catching fire because the amp gauge shorted out. I make it a point not to hook the amp gauge up, or disconnect it, for this reason.
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Terry You repair things with tools. You fix things with a hammer.
AIR#2611
I still have the original Univolt in my 71 which for the most part seems to work fine. But I do have 2 related questions:
1. On my last trip there was a loud fan type noise that statrted and went away after a couple of minutes. Cooling fan gettting ready to die?
2, My ammeter does not work, what should I check?
Soon after we acquired our '74 last year, I had the unfortunate opportunity to change a fuse in the old Univolt. Ours was under a shelf that was part of the tub unit, and was accessed through a small opening in the wall of the closet behind the tub.
I learned two things:
1) it was very hard to see which fuse was blown
2) my contortionist days were well behind me
This experience established the two main criteria for the new fuse panel when I decided to replace the Univolt with a solid state inverter. I wanted to easily see which fuse was blown, and I wanted to be able to get to it. I located the new inverter and panel on the floor and wall of the previously mentioned closet (behind the tub), which also helps with air circulation for the inverter.
The only thing I bought for the panel was a small piece of Lexan, which I cut into two pieces, one for the top and one for the face of the new box. The box has a plywood back and two sides, I used two plastic "z" channels to attach the fuse board. There are two "c" channels on the side to support the face piece of Lexan, which just drops into the channels.
The new box may look too "techie" for some tastes with the clear Lexan face and top, but it is tucked away in the closet and meets my two criteria. It was also inexpensive. I hope the picture is helpful, please let me know if you have any questions.
Modern day converters have fans that only come one when needed.
If you do have a newer converter that is why your ammeter would not work as it most likely would not have been wired back in.
I don't know this is the original univolt but it is a univolt. In addition to the commonly available 20 amp glass fuses it has 2 40 amp fuses that you just can't find. The noise I was talking about above was a fairly loud vibration noise, not to be confused with the ordinary hum. I sounded like a fan with bad bearings but I don't know for sure it was a fan. This noise only happened once and no problems since.
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