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Old 07-07-2014, 01:23 PM   #15
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Just one additional thought on the generator, though it does sound like there is current drain somewhere in the system.. The Honda 1000 is really only producing 7.5 Amps into the Charger/converter, and some of that is going to be available for 120 V AC needs.. (Most refrigerators will switch to Electrical mode from Propane mode if they sense 120V AC Current available...). Net result is that charging time using a Honda 1000 is going to be more than a couple hours, if batteries are really low..
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:31 PM   #16
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is the power on to the tv antenna booster?
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:14 PM   #17
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Reading this topic with great interest & agree check TV antennae booster as we have already realized when mistakenly left on was big parasitic drain. We've been driveway testing & have not yet enough experience regarding amount of time needed to recharge batteries with 2000 generator. Since we have our first long NY State Park trip planned to Adirondacks 12 nights w/o hookups...trying to understand approx. how many hrs. we will need to run generator to reboot batteries each day. Park rules only permit generators 7-11 am & 4-8pm.


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Old 07-08-2014, 09:31 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Condoluminum View Post
Just one additional thought on the generator, though it does sound like there is current drain somewhere in the system.. The Honda 1000 is really only producing 7.5 Amps into the Charger/converter, and some of that is going to be available for 120 V AC needs.. (Most refrigerators will switch to Electrical mode from Propane mode if they sense 120V AC Current available...). Net result is that charging time using a Honda 1000 is going to be more than a couple hours, if batteries are really low..
Power off to antenna. Re generator - would it be suggested that we turn off the fridge during gen charging hours? Are we able to shut off subwoofer battery drain? We are borrowing annemeter to test batteries. Then back to the dealer.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:51 AM   #19
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You don't have to turn OFF the fridge, just set it to Propane instead of Auto. I've read that when the modern ones are set to gas-only it's a testing mode and they stay on and can over-cool but that's complete hearsay, I have no personal experience with the newfangled models with 12v power and control boards.
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:39 AM   #20
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On my 2014 FC 20', when you push the GAS button, it forces the refrigerator to propane, but also, for reasons only known to Dometic, bypasses the thermostat, so it stays on full time, and could freeze things in the refrigerator. My dealer told me that, and I later found it confirmed in the Dometic book which came with the trailer. So, the only way that you can force my unit to propane and still have thermostat control is to either unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet in the back, or shut the circuit breaker for that plug off. Doing that would allow the little 1000 watt honda to give all it's output to the charger though. Your refrigerator in your EB could be different, Dometic has made a lot of variations on their refrigerator control systems.

The antenna amplifier should not be left on when the rig is not in use, but takes a very small amount of power and will not be the cause of any battery drain of any significance out camping. Same with the CO detector.

I tested the sub woofer on my trailer, and it has zero drain when the radio is not on, so again, I don't think you have a problem with that either.

The only real way to test for an unknown drain on the batteries is with an ammeter checking either the total battery draw down (disconnect the battery negative terminal an measure the current draw) or test each circuit by removing the fuses one at a time and looking for an unexpected load.

If you find none, I still believe you have week batteries which have no real capacity, as shown by your voltage test drawdown, listed in your post above.
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