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Old 01-08-2017, 02:30 PM   #1
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Pulling 120v Wire Problem

I have pulled wire (through the interior) from the drive-side front corner to the drivers-side rear corner. I am now trying to pull the wire up through the wall to the breaker panel and having problems. There seem to be a horizontal object blocking my wire puller from getting up through the gap between the inner and outer skin (even though there are wires already going up through that area).

Any ideas (secrets) on how to get the puller up through the wall?

Thanks,
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Old 01-08-2017, 02:51 PM   #2
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There also horizontal ribs in the interior walls some times they run the wires through holes in the ribs . I had to run a wire up through the rear closet .
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Old 01-08-2017, 07:57 PM   #3
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I am hoping to find a better solution. I do not have a closet in that corner.

Thanks,
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Old 01-09-2017, 05:01 AM   #4
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I am hoping to find a better solution. I do not have a closet in that corner.

Thanks,
I tried running my fish tape down from the fuse box still didn't have any luck .You might try an inspection camera with a long probe on it . Sometimes working on Airstreams is like building a ship in a bottle .
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Old 01-09-2017, 12:12 PM   #5
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Here's a photo of the ribbing in the rear street side of my '79 Sovereign. You'll need to find a wire hole in the horizontal rib if trying to go up through the corner. Click image for larger version

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Old 01-09-2017, 12:46 PM   #6
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This helps to see the construction! I assume they have not changed the basic wall construction in the last 25 years. It looks like there are two holes in your horizontal rib in the corner section - one in the corner by the tail light and another one to its left. Were those holes cut specifically for each wire run or are they at regular intervals in the rib?

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Old 01-09-2017, 01:03 PM   #7
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The holes seem to be fairly standard cut outs. To access taillights, running lights etc. They're about an inch in diameter.
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Old 01-09-2017, 01:46 PM   #8
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Thanks! So if I keep poking around, I should randomly find one. Although, having said that, I have already done a lot of random poking. Or I could try Woodfox's suggestion of the inspection camera.

At least I have a better idea of what I am up against.
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Old 01-09-2017, 04:36 PM   #9
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I tried an inspection camera while trying to find a short in a 12V wire. I couldn't see anything cuz the insulation got in the way. I knew approximately where the through holes in the framing were located, so I finally cut open the interior wall to gain access.
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:28 PM   #10
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I think I better keep poking for now. My wife would kill me if I start cutting into the walls.
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:19 PM   #11
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I think I better keep poking for now. My wife would kill me if I start cutting into the walls.
Please don't take this the wrong way......but you might kill yourself is you start cutting into the interior walls and hit an energized wire or cable.

It would be pretty messy too after that...............
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Old 01-09-2017, 09:18 PM   #12
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Lew, It would be a contest to see which killed me first! (But my wife always wins.) Believe me, I always shut off the electricity when working on or around any circuitry.

Do you have any advise on how to pull these wires without destroying my trailer? Any of your advise would be greatly appreciate!

Thanks,
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Old 01-09-2017, 11:36 PM   #13
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You might consider removing the tail light/stop light fixture and then look for more access with a borescope.
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Old 01-10-2017, 03:07 AM   #14
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Yes, a very good idea to disconnect power first. I heartily endorse that suggestion. But cutting into an interior wall will not "destroy" it if done neatly and as inconspicuously as possible. You don't want to hack away at it with a hammer and chisel, for example. In many places the wall you want to open is hidden behind some other accessory feature. Score your cut lines then follow those lines with something with a fine cutting blade. I used a Dremmel tool. Don't cut any deeper than you have to. Later you can patch the cut closed. I used Sikaflex adhesive on some backing strips, then reset the cut panel piece. Fill in the cuts with a minimum application of Bondo, then paint. If you do it carefully, it hardly shows up. A true restoration fanatic is not gonna like this fix, but I'm trying to save you a few hundred dollars.
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Old 01-10-2017, 03:18 AM   #15
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news but unless you can run that wire through the same hole as the other wiring it will not have a hole grommet. Which if not installed will increase the chance of chaffing cutting into the new 120V wire causing electrical shock and or a fire.
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Old 01-10-2017, 06:18 AM   #16
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Lew, It would be a contest to see which killed me first! (But my wife always wins.) Believe me, I always shut off the electricity when working on or around any circuitry.

Do you have any advise on how to pull these wires without destroying my trailer? Any of your advise would be greatly appreciate!

Thanks,
Dave et al,

I have tried numerous times to perform the exact exercise that you are attempting with success only ONCE! I have gone thru existing interior (and sometimes exterior) skin openings with a borescope and IF I find an opening in a horizontal cross piece, many times it is full to capacity with no room for additional cabling runs.

Running thru the vertical ribs is just a slight bit easier, but as Tbeck pointed out, you then have no protective grommet for the cabling. This can be addressed by using appropriate layers of protective wire covering like woven/braided polyester sleeving (called 'snakeskin' in the industry) but the success rate it is still extremely spotty.

Best to seek an alternative path thru a contiguous cabinet for the horizontal run and closet for the vertical. You also might consider removing a part of the ceiling rivets to run some cabling as the panels there are usually easy to put back in place with no disturbance.
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:22 AM   #17
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Gentlemen,

Thank you all for your inputs. You have convinced me that trying to pull wire through the wall in this back corner is a bad idea, so I started thinking about other solutions (outside the box).

I do not have any vertical closets in the bedroom. It was a sideways-mount queen bedroom with one hanging closet and was very inefficient, so we decided to convert it to a twin bed set-up (ala KJRitchie “2008 Classic 25fb Remodel Reveal” post from 12/26/16). I was putting in the wiring for an electrical upgrade while everything was out of the way. We are also putting in new flooring before we install the 6 volts Lifeline battery bank and Magnum hybrid inverter/charger.

I had planned to put a new breaker box in the hanging cabinets above the back window to bring the shore/generator power up next to the old breaker panel. In thinking about this today, I just realized this was unnecessary. I already have 10 gauge Romex running up to the old breaker panel for the main power. I can connect this to the AC output of the inverter and that part of the circuit is done. All I then need to do is connect the shore power to the new panel (which I can mount under the new twin bed) and then connect a line with a 30-amp breaker to the inverter AC input. The only thing left to decide is whether or not to tie the air conditioning circuit to shore power or let it run through the inverter. (I plan to only run the air when I have shore power or my two Honda 2000s hooked up.) This all was another Homer Simpson moment…

Thank you all for your help.
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Old 01-10-2017, 04:15 PM   #18
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The only reason for placing the A/C on the inverter sub panel would be if you intend to go lithium in the future and want to use the Magnum Hybrid's load support capabilities to run the A/C with a single 2000 watt generator.

I would not suggest this with the Lifelines as they will not be happy with the 160+ amp transient load they will see on A/C start-up prior to the load support commencing.

Since you have a pair of Hondas that run the A/C by themselves, I would keep the A/C on the main panel if you intend to keep the pair.


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Old 01-10-2017, 04:43 PM   #19
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Lew,

Understand. I did not realize the transient load would be that high while on generators or shore power, but I absolutely take your word for it! So, you just greatly simplified that last decision, but now I have to figure out how to get that circuit hooked to the new breaker panel. Hopefully, the A/C circuit runs out of the bottom of the wall in the corner so I can just tap into it there (easy enough to check).

Thanks,
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