Progressive Dynamics 4045 need help

[SilverHouseDreams]

The manual does state that this is a 725W unit, and I trust PD more than most...so let’s assume that it will actually output 45amps at 14.4V.

If I turn everything on in my 22FB (with LED lighting) including having my fridge in DC mode I wouldn’t be anywhere close to 45amps. I really wonder what you all having going in your trailers that need 45amps just to support the load, as GM implies. I think my peak load is probably just over 25amps, and a lot of that would be the fridge that one would normally run on AC when the converter is powered.

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

There continues to be a bit of confusion over just when a "45 amp" converter is expected to put out 45 amps. Most (but not all) converter data sheets are a bit thin on details. If your converter puts out 1/2 the rated current when the output >= 13 V that's very much part of working out how big it needs to be to support the loads in the trailer.

Bob

Bob, that's not quite how it works and your response is a little confusing. Simply put it's a shared load. A 45 amp converter for example is fully capable of outputting 45 amps and many people (boondockers) realize that current if they have a fairly large battery bank significantly discharged.
If a battery were not present and it was subjected to a 45 amp demand, it would in fact deliver 45 amps.
The reason most never see it is because an RV is usually only using a few amps for lights, etc and connected to a battery that is charged or maybe 50+ percent and the internal resistance of battery will not let it deliver. Remember the battery is the boss, not the charger. The more charged the battery is, the higher the resistance and the current will taper significantly.
A battery monitor with a shunt will show this in real time.

[GM Airstream]

Originally Posted by SilverHouseDreams

The manual does state that this is a 725W unit, and I trust PD more than most...so let’s assume that it will actually output 45amps at 14.4V.

If I turn everything on in my 22FB (with LED lighting) including having my fridge in DC mode I wouldn’t be anywhere close to 45amps. I really wonder what you all having going in your trailers that need 45amps just to support the load, as GM implies. I think my peak load is probably just over 25amps, and a lot of that would be the fridge that one would normally run on AC when the converter is powered.

Ahhh arn't you forgetting the battery recovery.... if you have two of the 27's that went down to 50%...over nights use... it is not too far fetched that when you first start to charge them your going to pull about 25 amps for each battery... at 14.7 volts... (2 x 25 = 50amps) Just a little over the 45 amp rating of the converter... but wait.. thats just to recover the bats after a night of heater and water pump... bathroom breaks.. stinkie pete fans?

Now... Let assume that your getting up in the morning... you plug in to get things recovered... now your taking the shower... 6 amps water pump.. and of course it still frozen outside... so the heater is doing 9 amps... and your trying to light the joint... with LED's... (bright white blue light that is bad for you of course)... so lets say another 5 amps etc... oh and you want to catch the news on the TV or radio... add another 5 amps along to the 20 already... so far your up to 25 amps of real time usage.. now we through the bats on line to get charged at the 14.7 volts demand jumps another 50 amps... and OPS... your poor old 45 amp converter needs to come up with 75 amps or so total... to make the load work.

I know your saying well I only spend xx no of min in the shower and the heater is real effecent so it only runs 10 min to warm up the joint...

None the less that when that stuff is on... is your max required load.

Sure the converter will struggle.. and eventually as things get charged and recovered... the current will dimenish.. but, the poor converter is at dead load hell...till then... thus, one is smart to always make sure the converter has reserve and capacity to pull the max load... and that is why they make 65-80 amp converters... so you never over work 'em... short life and they take up smoking as they get older...

[TG Twinkie]

We are talking about a 1960's A$ here.
I doubt it had more than 1 Group 24 battery.
Unless there will be significant upgrades to the 12 volt system. Including the wire size between the battery and converter and fuse panel. Probably #10 wire. Which will be too small for a larger converter. A 45 amp unit will be large enough.
The original was probably somewhere around 30 amp.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by 68 Overlander

Bob, that's not quite how it works and your response is a little confusing. Simply put it's a shared load. A 45 amp converter for example is fully capable of outputting 45 amps and many people (boondockers) realize that current if they have a fairly large battery bank significantly discharged.
If a battery were not present and it was subjected to a 45 amp demand, it would in fact deliver 45 amps.
The reason most never see it is because an RV is usually only using a few amps for lights, etc and connected to a battery that is charged or maybe 50+ percent and the internal resistance of battery will not let it deliver. Remember the battery is the boss, not the charger. The more charged the battery is, the higher the resistance and the current will taper significantly.
A battery monitor with a shunt will show this in real time.

Hi

Well, *except* as mentioned in great detail another thread that's not at all what I experienced. I have a real time battery monitor. I spent a lot of time watching what was going on. Others chimed in to the thread and have measured exactly the same thing on their setups. Simply put, with the batteries down around 13V and the converter set to 14.4, max current into the batteries was just a bit over 1/2 what the converter was rated for.

With a 400AH lithium bank, there is *very* little "internal resistance" on the batteries. They will quite happily charge at a 400A rate. Indeed there are some converters that will put 80A into the exactly the same bank / same wiring / same shunt / same setup.

===

So why might this be? Well one reason is you might not want to bash a lead acid battery at full current right up to max voltage. It could be a feature rather than a bug.

Bob

[SilverHouseDreams]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

We are talking about a 1960's A$ here.
I doubt it had more than 1 Group 24 battery.
Unless there will be significant upgrades to the 12 volt system. Including the wire size between the battery and converter and fuse panel. Probably #10 wire. Which will be too small for a larger converter. A 45 amp unit will be large enough.
The original was probably somewhere around 30 amp.

How dare you bring facts to this discussion? Apparently the tow vehicle mentality of abusing people that do things differently has now arrived in the Repair/Electrical group too. Obviously bigger is always better, you must always buy the biggest that is available regardless of requirements. You are a fool otherwise! (sarcasm)

[GM Airstream]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

We are talking about a 1960's A$ here.
I doubt it had more than 1 Group 24 battery.
Unless there will be significant upgrades to the 12 volt system. Including the wire size between the battery and converter and fuse panel. Probably #10 wire. Which will be too small for a larger converter. A 45 amp unit will be large enough.
The original was probably somewhere around 30 amp.

Yes probably No. 10. but you don't have to pull that wire out.. add a second or 3 No. 10 and tag them all togeather... using two No. 10's will net you a whopping 60 amps... however, your not pulling that much through the trailer.. your heavy current is going to be from the converter to the battery... in most cases. thus... your light wiring is going to suffice for the lighting... especally when you head into LED's' so again.... its from the converter to the battery that is the most demanding...for high current.
While your upgrading.. I would add a second type 24/27 battery... that way you can boon dock longer without supplemental charging.

So the wiring from the converter to the bats are No. 4... to keep the IR losses down... and from the bats to the electrical system can still be the No. 10 which gives you a total load of about 30 amps... and if you can live with that... good to go... but, remember the bats are going to demand higher current when they first are placed on charge.. after that they taper off to about 10-15 amps... and when past 80% drop to around 5-7 amps... so as you can see its only the surg inital current you need to worry about... thus if your going to put a converter in.. go with one that gives you extra ... and won't have to work as hard... not much difference in weight and size... they only consern is the 120 volt AC line... here you need at least internal No. 12 wire to give you good supply power (shore power) I would go with No. 10 cord connection so you get the full 30 amps... from the ped....

enjoy...

[bwaysteve]

Originally Posted by vintagemotor

Here is a copy of the manual:
https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-co...glish-Only.pdf
Pay special attention to the wire diagram, you have to add jumpers to the converter from the board where the AC power cable comes into the box to the converter or it will not charge battery.
Good luck!

Think it might be the jumper.

[bwaysteve]

Originally Posted by newsgauger

bwaysteve, several people have responded to your question/submission. However, I do not see any response from you to say things are fixed. What is your status, or should I say the PD4045 status?

When I purchased my PD4655V 55 amp power converter (upgrade kit) it came with unit, fuse board and instruction sheet. Do you have all that?

I picture or two would be great to help diagnose current isses.

Let us know how you made out.

Had trouble with password.I think there should be a jumper on this.Instructions are sketchy.I just remember taking to an RV place and they took a wire off.In Santa Fe plugged in to SP battery bit the dust but 12v did not work on SP wo battery.Took battery in and was toast.I have a new AGM I have not installed yet.