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Old 01-27-2012, 08:49 AM   #29
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"Said a little bit differently, the 1000W generator can't deliver all 1000W the converter needs, so the converter can't operate at rated spec."


I knew there was a good explanation....

Bob
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:23 AM   #30
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I have a Honda EU1000i and when I replaced the converter in my trailer with a PD-9245 I noticed a difference right away. With the old converter, the generator ran at idle speed. With the PD-9245 the generator was running faster when the charger was in "Boost Mode" (14.4 volts). Once the battery was at 90% and the PD-9245 went into "Normal Mode" (13.6 volts) the generator slowed down to idle speed.

The battery seems to charge faster with the new converter.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:21 AM   #31
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The wattage rating on a converter is the power required on the input side of the converter when the converter is at it's maximum output rating. There are losses within the converter that make it less that 100% efficient. The majority of the loss is in the form of heat, thus the need for a cooling fan in most converters. All electrical devices have a certain amount of resistance to the flow of electrical current. In DC or direct current circuits it is simply called "resistance". In AC or alternating current circuits it is referred to as impedance; which is similar to but not the same as resistance. Because AC devices that are not a purely resistive load contain a reactive component found in inductive or capacitive devices.
A DC generator is rated in watts or kilowatts. AC generators are rated in volt/amps or kilovolt/amps. DC power is measured in watts; AC power is measured in volt/ amps.
These units of measure are different for a reason. For example: if you were to connect a heating element to a 120 volt DC circuit it would produce a certain amount of heat. Heat is measured in BTU's. Let's say the heating element produced 1000 BTU on the DC circuit.
If that same heating element is connected to a 120 volt AC circuit it would produce just over 700 BTU, 707 to be exact.
If you were to draw a rectangle on a sheet of paper that is 2" square, then shade the entire area. Let's say this shaded area is 1 watt of DC power. The rectangle represents a period of time.
Now draw another 2" rectangle. Then draw a half circle inside the rectangle from the lower left hand corner to the top and then down to the lower right hand corner. Shade the area inside the half circle. The shaded area represents the amount of power an AC circuit will produce which is measured in volt/amps. The half circle is not a true representation of the AC sign wave since it has more of an elliptical shape. But it will give you an idea of what the difference is and why they are not the same.
The new inverter generators have a permanent magnet DC generator that supplies the power to the inverter (electronic) section of the unit. The inverter section with the use of a micro processor converts the DC to AC. While not exactly the same as an AC generator, the more sophisticated inverters come real close.
I believe the rating of these units is based on the DC side of the unit and not the AC side. This is why a 1000 watt inverter generator is derated to something less.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:23 AM   #32
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Oh OK,
The problem I had is that I call that a sink, not synch..

...

Ken
Sink is correct, see Heat sink - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

Wasn't going to beat Bob up about it, but it did take me a minute to get in "sync" with what he meant.

I agree with Bob about replacement. The advantages to modern converters make replacement prior to failure worthwhile. I replaced mine a couple of years ago with an Inteli-Power. I'm very pleased with the upgrade.

Also, the still functioning univolt is available for a bench supply of 12vdc if I ever need it.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:42 AM   #33
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....Also, the still functioning univolt is available for a bench supply of 12vdc if I ever need it.

Yep.....still got the 7455 P-Lax sitting on the shelf.
When my Xantex "up-grade" failed I got real good at the install/remove during the diagnosis process.

Bob
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:09 PM   #34
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I am preparing to use my Parallax with a deep cycle battery across it for back up power for my ham radio. It will not over charge the battery, because the converter will only be on when the radio is in use.

Ken
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:13 PM   #35
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Bet there's quite a few of 'em out there awaiting a new career.

Bob
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Old 02-01-2012, 07:39 PM   #36
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IOTA Install

I replaced the Parallax PS a few weeks ago with the IOTA DLS 55 unit from Randy at best converter. I pulled the Parallax unit out, drilled out the top rivets and the standoffs. Removed the guts. Drilled a few extra holes in the bottom of what was left of the box, riveted the IOTA to the box and wired it in using the existing wires. I had to cut the DC wires off the parallax and the plug end of the IOTA AC wire but I had plenty of wire to hook everything up. Iím running 2 Lifeline GPL-4CT (6V) in series and wanted to keep them happy. Other than the minor mods above, the unit was plug and play.

Here are some pictures of the installation.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:11 PM   #37
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I have just purchased a '75 sovereign 31' and i was told that the converter needs to be replaced. I am an electrical idiot. I have read all of the posts above and don't understand very much of anything.

I found an Inteli-Power 9245 for $128.00 and would like to know if it would be the right product for my AS.

Again, excuse my ignorance, but when you refer to inverter generators are you are you talking about using them to charge the battery?

Thanks Ken
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:11 PM   #38
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The 9245 will work fine in your trailer. I believe the old Univolt was good for about 30 amps on the DC side. You will be happy with the 9245 I'm sure.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:16 AM   #39
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Thanks TGT
As long as I have this trailer gutted, are there any other electrical improvements that you think I should make?
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Old 02-02-2012, 09:25 AM   #40
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I just finished installing a PowerMax 60amp converter along with a group 27 AGM battery from Randy. Easy install. I am looking forward to the improvement this will provide over the Parallax 7455 and wet cell battery.
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:21 PM   #41
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Thanks to Robert as well. I added the DLS 55 to my Int'l last weekend. It took about 20 minutes to unwire the Parallax 7300 and wire in the new converter/charger. Since the Parallax serves as the base for the hinged cover plate, I simply capped off the 7300 wires. If the DLS 55 ever dies, I've got a spare converter/charger. Really like knowing I've got the float option for charging. Fried eggs are OK, Fried/overcharged batteries, not so much!
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:04 PM   #42
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9245 is a great converter for just about all our applications. I have used one in another trailer. I have also installed and used the IOTA DLS 55. Same thing...no problems...just had to check out what the LEDS were telling me. I had a WFCO and it failed within a year....I have just replaced a battery charger used to maintain the battery in my flying cloud. It worked OK but when the battery failed from old age...5 years....I rebuilt the whole system with a PD 9245 this time.
By the way, if you cut the AC cord end off for an installation....your warranty is voided....on all converters.
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