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Old 01-24-2012, 11:38 AM   #15
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Good point Ken,

Curious, does your's have the heat sync on the front, didn't see it on 10's?

I think 10Smiles install is same as ours, you have to open-up to see the LED.
Bob
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:48 AM   #16
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Good point Ken,

I think 10Smiles install is same as ours, you have to open-up to see the LED.
Bob
I suspect your converter and mine are mounted the same. I ran the little cable through the finger hole on the door and mounted the IQ-4 on the front of the door. There is just enough cable to allow the door to open fully with the cable still out of the way.

They installed an electric outlet in the place I store my trailer. So, This winter I left the batteries in it and am letting the IQ-4 take care of them. I hope it works. So far so Good.

Ken
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:14 PM   #17
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Ken,

I can't see a problem left ours plugged in most of last Summer. The batt's are inside now but still at 12.8v. I should have done that up-grade long before I switched to the AGM's.

Does yours have the ribbed sync on the end?

Bob
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:05 PM   #18
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Ken,


Does yours have the ribbed sync on the end?

Bob
I don't know, what is it?

I do know that the IQ-4 plugs into the socket that it normally uses to jumper the charger into a higher voltage.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:56 PM   #19
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"I don't know, what is it?"

The ribbed end on the converter....

Bob
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:50 PM   #20
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"I don't know, what is it?"

The ribbed end on the converter....

Bob
Oh OK,
The problem I had is that I call that a sink, not synch..

I not remember for sure, but according to the manual, it should have those fins because it is a DLS-75.

Ken
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:53 PM   #21
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I've seen a lot of talk in a few different threads lately about Univolt replacement. I am wondering if there's really a reason to replace if there's no indication of a problem or is it good $150 insurance policy against spending $500 later for a new battery and a new converter later on?

My trailer had an IOTA 45A in it when I bought it. So far, it's been flawless. The Argosy motorhome that we just bought last May has the original Univolt. It seems to work just fine. It hums, but honestly it's not very noticeable...never kept any of the family awake at night. The house battery on the moho is a "Group 27" placed by 2 PO's ago. It is hard to tell the condition as it's been relocated to under the step area and I don't feel like laying on my back to remove it without good reason. We like to stay overnight in parking lots while travelling (boondocking) and we also go to one or two rallies per year where we boondock the entire time. I don't ever plan on adding additional batteries for more boondock capacity especially since Airstream included a 4kW Onan genset from the factory. So a few questions in my mind right now as I contemplate upgrades for the new season:

1. Do I even mess with a new converter right now since the status quo is doing just fine, seemingly. Wait for something to break? Hum too loudly?

2. If I do replace, how big should I go? It seems like 45A is the way to go for the older Airstream units? There's no indication that I can find in my service manual as to rated output in amps for the Univolt.

3. Space is a consideration. Whatever converter I buy would need to fit in the original Univolt space. The moho is pretty much original inside and I'd like to keep it that way, yellow & orange upholstery and all.

4. Iota vs PD vs PowerMax vs Intelli-Power? Suggestions? Obviously I am happy with Iota based on my trailer. Other opinions?

Thanks in advance to all.
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:28 PM   #22
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I think you'll find the consensus here will be to replace the Univolt. The newer converter/chargers are much more reliable and do a lot better job of maintaining/prolonging the batts.

My converter experience deals only with the original Parallax 7455 2 stage, a Xantrex XADC 40 replacement that failed during the first trip boondocking and the most recent, IOTA DLS IQ4 55a, the IOTA being the only one I will recommend, based on first hand experience.

A 45 or 55a will probably work just fine for your application.

Bob
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Old 01-25-2012, 07:13 AM   #23
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1. Do I even mess with a new converter right now since the status quo is doing just fine, seemingly. Wait for something to break? Hum too loudly?
If you're very careful about not letting your univolt overcharge the battery (and it's working correctly), then by all means stick with it.

Working correctly means that it's putting out good voltage and enough current to keep your batteries charged.

In my case, in the B190, the original converter was dying, and it had cooked two deep cycle batteries in the time I owned it. One night, at a rally with limited electricity in cool weather, the shore power shut off, and with a bad battery I had no furnace at all. I was out at 2 a.m. in the cold looking for the breaker.

The trailer's converter hadn't gotten that bad, but the voltage wasn't where it should've been, so it was on its way, too.

Quote:
2. If I do replace, how big should I go? It seems like 45A is the way to go for the older Airstream units? There's no indication that I can find in my service manual as to rated output in amps for the Univolt.
Yes, the 45amp is probably good for most campers. I put a 60 amp in our 30', and even that is probably overkill, but on the other hand we have three batteries.

Quote:
3. Space is a consideration. Whatever converter I buy would need to fit in the original Univolt space. The moho is pretty much original inside and I'd like to keep it that way, yellow & orange upholstery and all.
The Intellipower 60 amp I put in is much smaller and lighter than the original unit. I also put a 60 amp in the B190 (talk about overkill!), and it fit in the original spot as well.

Quote:
4. Iota vs PD vs PowerMax vs Intelli-Power? Suggestions? Obviously I am happy with Iota based on my trailer. Other opinions?

Thanks in advance to all.
Both of the ones I did were the Intellipower 60 amp (9260 I think). I was very happy with it in the B190, so I went with it for the trailer, too.
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Old 01-25-2012, 07:23 PM   #24
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Good point Ken,

Curious, does your's have the heat sync on the front, didn't see it on 10's?

I think 10Smiles install is same as ours, you have to open-up to see the LED.
Bob
I'm also going to go the upgrade route to the IOTA with IQ4 built in (to go along with new Group27 AGMs); I figure if I want to see the LED I will either extend the wires to an LED mounted on the front panel of the power center, or maybe rig up a fiber optic light guide to make it visible. I'll know more once I get the equipment, or maybe get lazy and just let it slide. On second thought, there's better things to do while Airstreaming than looking at blinky lights!
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:19 AM   #25
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If you go to a Honda 1000 watt inverter generator, you are correct, you will need to go to a 45 amp converter/charger, at least with a Progressive Dynamics Intellapower converter (actual experience here). This is due to the low power factor of the converter and how it interacts with the inverter generators.
Can you explain that or point me somewhere that does explain it?

Thanks.
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:57 AM   #26
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Can you explain that or point me somewhere that does explain it?

Thanks.
Basically...for us it just took our 1000 Yamaha longer to full charge the batt's than the current 2000 Honda.

Bob
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Old 01-26-2012, 11:03 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Can you explain that or point me somewhere that does explain it?

Thanks.

I'll give this a shot.... dredging up what I remember from a long-ago electrical engineering undergrad class...
I'm not sure about anything specific about interaction with inverter generators, but -

Power factor affects the ability of a source (like a generator, or your local power company) to deliver rated power to a load (like a converter).

Resistive loads (like an electric range or oven) will have a power factor of 1 (a high power factor). Inductive loads (like incandescent lights, converters, anything with a coil or transformer, thus includes our myriad tv's, computers, etc) will have a lower power factor, because these loads affect the flow of current in the electrical distribution system.

In 120 volt AC (alternating current) power systems, voltage swings positive and negative, 60 times per second. Current in the wires ebb and flow as well. Power transfer is most efficient when the ebb and flow of the current is timed identically with the voltage - the current peaks at the same instant that the voltage peaks. When current gets out of phase, as with inductive loads, overall efficiency goes down.

A load, like a 60A converter rated at 1000W input, will thus need more than a 1000W source to adequately supply it, due to losses in the distribution system.

Said a little bit differently, the 1000W generator can't deliver all 1000W the converter needs, so the converter can't operate at rated spec.

Sorry for the treatise, but I'm sure you'll thank me for leaving out the math, which always put me to sleep anyway.

Steve
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:30 AM   #28
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Thanks. In hindsight it was a dumb question. I just never thought the converter would draw so many watts on the input.
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