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Old 09-02-2013, 10:18 PM   #1
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1972 27' Overlander
crescent , Iowa
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3
Pictures of Univolt and battery on a 1972 Overlander

Hey there! Would someone post some pictures of their univolt and battery (as they are) hooked up. I am struggling with my "new" 1972 overlander and I am tring to getting everything electrical running smoothly. I have read quite a bit of information and at this point I just need to see a picture of them hooked up. Any tips you may have for me would also be greatly appreciated.

Problems are:
lights inoperable even when hooked up to city power
battery won't charge
refridgerator inoperable
water heater inoperable

I would really hate to pull everything apart for a simple fix. THanks a lot.

Jesse
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:00 PM   #2
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1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg , Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2009
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I don't believe the fridge and wh need 12v power.
Sounds like your battery is dead and the univolt, battery charger, is not charging it. Is there 120v going to your univolt? What is your battery voltage? It should be at least 13v if the univolt is working.

Good luck.

Dan
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:21 PM   #3
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1988 25' Excella
Trumbull , Connecticut
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 192
Univolt and battery

Hello J-dubb. On my 88 Excella the battery hot lead goes to a self reseting circuit breaker and when the other side of the circuit breaker goes to one side of the batt disconnect switch. The hot lead of the univolt goes to a seperate self reseting circuit breaker and then the other side of that breaker goes to the same connection on the batt disconnect switch as the one from the battery. The other side of the battery disconnect switch goes to the fuse distribution panel hot side.
The minus side of the battery and the minus side of the univolt go to ground.
I would send you a picture of my diagram but I don't know how.
Hope this helps
If you have a voltmeter easure the output from the univolt with the battery disconnected and it should read about 13-15VDC. If you have no voltage output from univolt make sure you have 120VAC going to it. If you have inout voltage and no outpot voltage then probably the univolt bit the dust.
While the battery is disconnected read the voltage on the battery and it should be about 12-13VDC.
Happy camping nm1oqrz
Quote:
Originally Posted by j-dubb View Post
Hey there! Would someone post some pictures of their univolt and battery (as they are) hooked up. I am struggling with my "new" 1972 overlander and I am tring to getting everything electrical running smoothly. I have read quite a bit of information and at this point I just need to see a picture of them hooked up. Any tips you may have for me would also be greatly appreciated.

Problems are:
lights inoperable even when hooked up to city power
battery won't charge
refridgerator inoperable
water heater inoperable

I would really hate to pull everything apart for a simple fix. THanks a lot.

Jesse
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:07 AM   #4
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1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
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From your description, it sounds like you know what and where the Univolt is located.
1. Can you hear the Univolt humming?
2. Do you have 120 volt AC power to the coach?
3. Are the circuit breakers in the 120 volt panel in the coach turned on?
4. The fuse block in most Univolt panels are labelled as to where to connect both the house battery and the charge line from the TV. As well as the negative (ground/common) side of the house battery.
5. Make sure the fuses, especially the large ones are good and tight in the fuse holders.
6. There may be a fuse in the negative wiring from the battery. This fuse is generally mounted on the inside skin of the coach. Somewhere close to the battery box.
The larger glass fuses are at least 30 amp.
7.Do you know how to use a VOM?
8.If the refer and water heater are original. They do not require 12 volt DC power.
9. The refer would require 120 volt AC power to run in the electric mode.
10. Do you have propane in the tanks and have at least one of the valves open one a propane tank. There may be a selector on the regulator to manually select which tank you want to use. Look for an arrow on the dial.
11. There should be shut off valves for all propane appliances under the coach. The handle need to be inline with the propane line to be in the open position.
12. It takes a long time to bleed the air out of the lines to the water heater and refer. Since the WH needs the pilot lit to open the gas valve. And the refer has a very small burner.
Answer the questions and ask more questions. There are many qualified people here to help you thru the problems.
Good Luck!
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:20 PM   #5
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1972 27' Overlander
crescent , Iowa
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3
Thanks everyone for the posts. Twinkie, I can hear the univolt humming and there is hot going in and out. I replaced all fuses when I got it and I tested the battery today and it is bad. Went to replace it at walmart but without the waranty they would not do it (even though it has dates and a 12 month gaurantee on the battery) but that's another story all together. I am going to replace the battery and pick up a voltmeter. I will try poking around some more. Also, the fridge is aftermarket. THanks again for the info!!

Jesse
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:27 PM   #6
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1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
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Was the battery boiled dry?
Before you install a new battery. I would suggest you install a new modern converter. Otherwise you may ruin any new battery installed.
You can get a new converter on the net for around $130. A new battery will be almost $100.00.
Univolts are famous for killing batteries.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:39 PM   #7
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1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
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You could do yourself a huge favour by ditching the Univolt and getting yourself a new 3-stage converter.

No hum, and no burnt batteries in your future.

If you choose not to do it now, think of me when you do finally buy one...
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Old 07-12-2015, 12:32 PM   #8
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1972 27' Overlander
Concord , North Carolina
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 35
Had same problem

I have the same problem and it was the other wise worn out 12 volt panel that came with the trailer. My univolt hums and has burnt out the battery and it's going to be replaced this fall. The fridge runs on 110 and the hot water heater unless replaced after market is propane with a 110 igniter. A lot of the problems I had was from the old 12v panel as the years had taken it's toll on the tightness of the fuses and in some cases just corrosion in between the fuse and it's holder. For less than 250 you can replace the converter and the panel and assuming you're smarter than a fifth grader the swap out is real simple, just wire for wire and you get rid of those annoying 32v. fuses and replace them all with modern blade fuses. Anyway good luck with the repairs.
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