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Old 08-04-2012, 08:05 AM   #57
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idroba: I think you may be right. The local Airstream dealership recently and finally got their shop open. In fact I am taking the Bambi II over this morning to have them look at a couple of other problems I am having. Going to see how this visit works out with them and if favorable I will have them tackle the converter swap. I do know that they have at least one tech that is Airstream factory trained for what that may be worth.

rogerdoger: Sad thing is that I also started out life as an Aviation Electrician in the Navy but never actually worked as one before converting over to a different rate for 20 more years before retiring. But I just cannot rap my head around this converter issue. Been away from it for just too long I suppose. I think it is that there seems to be absolutely nothing standard about the way my old Bambi II is wired up.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:13 AM   #58
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Thanks TG Twinkie!

Once I took out the old univolt it was more obvious what was what, thanks. What I realized reading more of this thread and seeing many pictures of different setups, . . . it doesn't appear that any 2 units were made the same? Or it's unlikely that I would find another '66 safari and that it would be just the same as mine.
Then there's the coble factor. Who know's what this one looked like when it was first assembled? It had a univolt that is different than any of the ones I've seen in these pics, or read about? It has a fuse panel with screw in fuses like we used to see in homes. I will take some pics before I trash it. It was still hooked up, sort of, but the entire wiring of it & the seperate fuse panel is strange.
I'm just going to eliminate the univolt and rewire the fues panel or modify it to fit what I'm doing.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:30 PM   #59
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Electrical Schematic

Here is a drawing of the DC side used in a typical trailer. The 20 amp fuse in the house battery circuit can be omitted. This was another members setup and we left the 20 amp fuse in place because of the wire size.
Haven't seen the screw in type fuses in a trailer, but my guess is they are for the 120 volt AC circuits. A modern circuit breaker panel is in order. I installed a 60 amp breaker panel just for the extra space. In case I wanted to add a new 120 volt circuit.

Electrical pictures by dougbowman88 - Photobucket
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:08 AM   #60
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Nice Schematic

TG Twinkie,
That's a nice schematic, in color! On my old univolt the screw in fuses were marked, Battery, & Load, and the #6 wires were hooked up to the 12v fuse panel. It had a red & white #6wire to the fuse panel, red to a third 40amp fuse, and dark blue #6wire from the "load" connector on the univolt to the 40 amp fused side of the red #6 from the battery. I'll have to take a picture of it today & get it on my computer. I also found a pretty good picture of the fuse panel in the original airstream owners' manual.
It has a 110vac supply from the breaker panel.So I set that line up with an outlet for the new intelipower.
Thanks again.
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Old 08-09-2012, 10:04 PM   #61
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Univolt model 30 - 1966

Finally got around to taking the pics AND actually uploading them! The (+) from the "Battery" fuse went to a 3rd 40 amp fuse connection on the fuse panel, but there was nothing connected to the after side of that fuse. The (+) from the "Load" fuse was connected to the fuse panel after the 40amp fuse coming from the "house" battery (+) connection. I'm not sure if that was the original wiring? Everything was connected to that (+) after the 40 amp fuse from the "house battery" connection.Click image for larger version

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Old 09-17-2012, 11:36 PM   #62
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1966 safari

Quote:
Originally Posted by kwest66 View Post
Finally got around to taking the pics AND actually uploading them! The (+) from the "Battery" fuse went to a 3rd 40 amp fuse connection on the fuse panel, but there was nothing connected to the after side of that fuse. The (+) from the "Load" fuse was connected to the fuse panel after the 40amp fuse coming from the "house" battery (+) connection. I'm not sure if that was the original wiring? Everything was connected to that (+) after the 40 amp fuse from the "house battery" connection.Attachment 165319

Attachment 165320

Attachment 165321
I'm in a very similar place with my 1966 safari 22'....
I just started on my 120v today and opened up the univolt and its the same one as yours, it was next to the hot water heater. I actually tried to just replace the fuses in it to see if it would work. The univolt hasn't been charging the battery. It actually hasn't come on at all yet (haven't heard a hum) so I'm ordering a new converter. I've got a new battery and all of my 12v seems to work great when the battery is plugged in. My 120 for the AC and the outlets is working fine also. I haven't located a fuse panel on my trailer at all, only a breaker box that the red white and blue wires from the univolt go to through the wall. I am going to open it up and really try to figure out what is going on with the wires and everything tomorrow.

As far as the converter....I don't really know which one to get. I'm thinking of going with a 60 amp unit (until I go read another thread in a second that says something else). I don't I know if I'll need to install a separate fuse panel..which is a whole new can of worms.

All this to say-
All I really want to do is get a new converter and wire it right so my trailer will work and I can move to the next project.
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:44 PM   #63
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Safari66 - New Converter

Hi, I'm in Florida until next spring, summer, or ?? I don't have my file with me on the trailer, or the trailer, but you must have realized I used the intellipower, I think the 40 amp. It does sound like you're pretty much in the same situation with yours? Except ours has a 110 breaker panel in the right hand,(facing the rear) cupboard of the bathroom, right above where the converter was, next to the hot water heater. But the 110 all works and the 12v seems to work also, but the converter didn't charge the battery.
I felt the same way about the fuse panel. I could have gotten a converter/ fuse panel, but it seemed, like yours, most everything was working except for the converter to keep the battery charged. We were fortunate to have gotten the original owners manual with the trailer. There is a pretty good picture of one of these trailers from the rear with the big panel off the back. So I can see how a lot of the plumbing and the 12v fuse panel.
One thing I found that really helped me was, there was a sheet aluminum patch on the underskin up at the front on the right side ahead of the door. I think it was made by someone, not a factory junction box, but a junction box nonetheless. From there I was able to trace my brake wires, (not brake light wires), as well as the wires from the hitch, including the tow vehicle wire that charges the trailers battery.
I'm not sure how much I can help you without my files, but if you post some pics of what you're setup is I might be able to help? I have a major car restoration I'm working on down here and I'm pretty close to have it on the road. I work an assorment of jobs, but ask what you may and we'll see if I can help.
Enjoy
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:54 PM   #64
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I’m replacing the Triad Univolt in our 1974 25’ Land Yacht with an Intellipower 9245c converter, and I’ve got some questions about the workability of my planned rewiring. I’m planning on not using the 9245 to charge the tow vehicle starting battery, as the Univolt had been. I haven’t asked if the 9245 can be used for tow battery charging; I’m assuming that it can’t.
1) Should the negative or white “load” wire simply be connected to the ground bus of the fuse panel?
2) Can I assume the previous 40 amp fuse is unnecessary for the 5th branch circuit now (the branch had been combined with the Univolt’s charging circuit, which had been hooked to the vehicle starting battery), and can it now be replaced with a 20 amp?
3) I guess I’d want to de-couple the branch circuit from the vehicle battery (because the new converter will not be charging the vehicle battery), so should I simply disconnect the vehicle battery hot wire from the 10 gauge blue wire of the 5th branch, and cap them off w/ wire nuts?
4) Lastly, the blue branch wire is connected to the vehicle battery hot wire across a 12V/25A “short stop” fuse. Paired at one post of the fuse, w/ the tow battery hot, is a smaller red wire leading left into the wall. Does this red wire connect to the control panel? If not, does anyone have a good idea what it might be? Or, should I leave the tow battery hooked to the blue 5th branch as it is now, using a 40 amp fuse, so the 9245 will charge the tow? I still assume that it can’t.
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:10 PM   #65
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Converter wiring

Here is what you need. The converter is intended to charge the house battery(s). You can ignor the 20 amp fuse going to the battery. If you don't have the UCord plugged into the TV the TV battery won't get charged. If you are plugged into shore power. Why would you have the TV hitched up? Depending on the TV, the charge line may shut off if the TV is not running, so even if you were plugged in to shore power the TV battery would not get charged. There may even be a diode to prevent the converter from charging the TV battery.

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Old 10-10-2012, 10:56 PM   #66
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12-volt system - battery necessary?

thanks twinkie,
I appreciate your time, i'm sorry i had to drop the thread for awhile. Our land yacht is basically in use as a sm. mobile home for the next year or more, on the grid, in a park. I don't have a battery, so for convenience, I've thought to simply hook the converter(45A intellipower 9245), to the fuse panel.(with in-line 50 amp fuses). Is there any problem with using the converter without a battery for an extended (or any) period? In addition, I have a question about the eventual setup of the system from doug bowman which you linked. First though, I'll mention that I've had an essential misunderstanding of the TV's role. From your response, I can tell that the TV is meant to charge the house batt. I had been misinformed that the univolt was meant to charge the TV. Now that I understand this, I plan to hook the TV into the new system.
My question is about the wire guage of the house battery wires in the bowman diagram. Its hard to feel comfortable with 10 guage here since it would replace 6 gauge, in the old system. I know its not a starting battery, but won't the smaller guage lower the voltage from the converter to the battery? I've seen 4 gauge advocated by someone in another thread for that reason.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:31 PM   #67
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Just returned from an 18 day trip. Pretty busy right now. Will get on this as soon as I can.
You can run the trailer on the converter without a battery. I have done it for 3 years without a problem.
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Old 07-27-2014, 07:19 PM   #68
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Installed Intele Power 9200

Quote:
Originally Posted by tlavergne View Post
I don't have pics but when I converted my 1978 Ambassador about 9 years ago it was an easy swap. The univolt was heavy to get out but the conversion to the Intellipower was a breeze.
I know this is an old post but was not sure where to post. I have a 1974 Overlander installed the 9200 and an external fuse panel. My question is where should I hook up the blue charge line? I have output from my TV and charge voltage on the blue line. Can it just be hooked up to one of the main input lines on the fuse panel. It's the panel they sell at Vintage Trailer with the blade fuse.

Any help would be appreciated.

Ron L
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