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Old 06-12-2012, 10:28 AM   #43
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Yeah, I Agree...

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Originally Posted by idroba View Post
Looks like a workable plan. The only thing I would reconsider is the cycling/resetting circuit breakers to the batteries.

Those that I have encountered are not really well made, and often trip out at currents far off (+ or -) their rating. In addition, if you have a true short somewhere, they keep trying to reset and continually put current back into the short. I would much rather have the fuse open and stay open. Self reseting may be OK for an overload situation, but when it comes to a true short circuit they are not good at all. Like the energizer bunny, they just keep going, and going and going. They do save you the problem of spare fuses in case of an intermetent short but tend to mask a problem, rather than demanding you repair it.
Yeah, I was/am a bit wary about installing the resetting breakers and I am going to talk to the "Airstream Guru" about it when I go to pick up the fuse box later this week.

The tech's thinking was in part that since it is getting nearly impossible to find 50 AMP glass fuses anymore and he didn't feel that there was need for a bladed fuse on the line (absent a short as you mention) but was not really that specific as to why so I am going to press them for further info. as to why it is preferable to installing 2 x resetting circuits instead of wiring in the 4 x 50 AMP max blade circuits. As you mention, when you blow a fuse and things stop working you know that there is something wrong immediately and can take corrective action. Montanaandy
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Old 06-12-2012, 10:42 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by montanaandy View Post
Yeah, I was/am a bit wary about installing the resetting breakers
Exactly so. To a greater or lesser degree a resetting breaker defeats the safety reason for a standard fuse in the first place. I can add since I put mine in I never had it trip except once. It would also just be common sense that if it keeps tripping something more serious is likely to be going on.

I would be interested in any wisdom your guru can provide. Please ask him for me if there is a special mantra I can chant to my fuses.
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:38 PM   #45
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Airstream Mantra...

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Originally Posted by Lumatic View Post
Exactly so. To a greater or lesser degree a resetting breaker defeats the safety reason for a standard fuse in the first place. I can add since I put mine in I never had it trip except once. It would also just be common sense that if it keeps tripping something more serious is likely to be going on.

I would be interested in any wisdom your guru can provide. Please ask him for me if there is a special mantra I can chant to my fuses.
Actually the so-called "Airstream Guru" is the owner of the RV shop and I have yet to meet with him yet. I will discuss things with him when I go to get the parts that I ordered but I have already decided to splice a 50 AMP blade fuse inline between the positive and negative battery positions as per Roger and Idroba's suggestions. I met with another of the shop tech's (a younger guy) and he was the one that suggested the resetting circuit breakers among other things. Judging from the looks of the owner I doubt that he chants to any "mantra".
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:42 PM   #46
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Is This What Is Needed?

Roger/Idroba:

Attached is a picture of the parts that I picked up at a local auto supply store. I have 4 x 50AMP inline fuse holders, 6 ft of 6 AWG wire, and crimp connectors to hold the line splice. The gauge of the wire on the fuse holders is 6 AWG so I thought that this would be sufficient in the event that I need to splice into the existing line running to the batteries. Is this the correct gauge or a suitable gauge for the wire? I didn't see anything in the service manual addressing the gauge of the wire on the battery leads so I was not certain. Thanks, Montanaandy
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:49 PM   #47
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Yep, #6 will be fine, if you need more wire.
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:26 PM   #48
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Good Deal...

Great to hear. Thanks for the quick reply. Montanaandy
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:06 AM   #49
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Further Wiring Questions...

OK so I am diving into re-wiring headfirst - that is if I can ever get to the Univolt. Spent the better part of the day trying to get it out (don't want to take the credenza apart) and finally had to resort to the Dremel and cutting. Got an opening in the paneling that allows me to get to the plastic housing surrounding the Univolt but it appears that either the PO or the manufacturer caulked the Univolt into the plastic housing - there are no screws that could be holding the Univolt in place so I assume it is caulk.

Anyways, to my actual question - I had an electric power jack installed at the local RV center where I initially took the trailer after I purchased it years ago. Attached are pictures of the 12 V Distribution Panel and how it is wired in my trailer. There is an inline glass fuse spliced between Circuit No 1 Purple/Circuit 10 (of the 6-10 that will be serviced once I install the Parallax) and the Battery No. 1 Positive 50AMP circuit (Circuit 11 on the 12V DC Fuse Panel Diagram). I am assuming that this will need to be wired this way once again (I will use a blade fuse inline and not glass) or is it?

In addition, there is a blue lead wire piggybacking with the yellow wire at Circuit 9 (Ckt 2 Yellow) which then goes to the area where the power jack (Orange 16 on my 12 V DC Diagram) and Main 12 V Charge (15 Blue on the 12 V DC Diagram) are located. I am not certain what this is doing/why it is wired in this fashion but I am assuming that I will need to run this wire again when I re-wire the Parallax in and would have the same configuration (sharing the Yellow 9 circuit breaker).

Do I have to re-wire things in this Rube Goldberg configuration when I install the new fuse panels or is there another (cleaner, better) way that I can wire things that will allow me to power the electric jack? Any help from the electrical experts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Montanaandy
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:53 PM   #50
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Did you ever find a solution?

Greetings,

I just found this thread. I have the same problem with the fuse panel on my 79 Excella 50. The panel is exactly the same as the one you photographed. It is beginning to fall apart. Two fuses have been heating up and I think it is from corrosion on the panel.

I was wondering how you eventually solved the issue. I would like to order the parralax 12 volt panel for the 5 20 amp circuits for the lights etc. but I had similar questions to yours.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Best,

Abe F.
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Old 08-02-2012, 12:40 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Lumatic View Post
If you are not planning on recycling your old Univolt as a boat anchor you can have your Univolt and eat it too! I call this frankencharger UNITELLIPOWER This setup lets you keep the fuse panel of your Univolt and piggyback a 9245. Also (theoretically) lets you use your vintage OEM ammeter.
Hi Lumatic,
I just received my 9245 intelli-power and I'm realizing it's not quite as simple as unhooking the univolt and hooking up the 9245. Keeping my old fuse panel "sounds" a lot more simple than reinventing the entire setup.
So to do this, do I just run a jumper 14ga. romex from the output of the 9245 to the old 110vac input of the univolt?
I'd appreciate your experienced input.
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Old 08-02-2012, 01:58 PM   #52
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No! No! No!
Do not connect the output of the 9245 to the AC side of the Univolt.
The Univolt had a fuse panel that is intended to be wired with 12 volt DC. There will be three circuits involved with the Univolt that require higher current carrying capacities. Those are.
The two wires that go to the battery(s) 30 to 50 amp. Look for large glass fuses between the battery and the fuse panel buss. They may even be labelled "battery"
The two wires that power the DC fuse panel.
I wire from the TV known as the "charge line"
In effect the positive side of all three circuits are wired in parallel. The same goes for the negative side.
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Old 08-03-2012, 09:14 AM   #53
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My problem is I am a very visual person. None of the photos that have been shown here or other threads look anything like the Univolt and wiring that I have. I have no fuses (at least that I can find) anywhere, only two AC CB's. Just a mass of 48 year old wiring that has been changed and added too over the years by several owners, most of whom seem to have known less about proper electrical work than I do.
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:30 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
My problem is I am a very visual person. None of the photos that have been shown here or other threads look anything like the Univolt and wiring that I have. I have no fuses (at least that I can find) anywhere, only two AC CB's. Just a mass of 48 year old wiring that has been changed and added too over the years by several owners, most of whom seem to have known less about proper electrical work than I do.
I know just what you are talking about. My Argosy had an old power supply that was partially hooked up. No fuses, just wires coming out of the wall. However, I was able to get a wiring diagram of a similar AS from this site, which identified the wires by color. I then purchased a PD9245 and fuse panel and hooked them up. Keep in mind my background is in electrical/electronics thanks to the USN. If you don't have the necessary background, maybe get professional help via a RV tech. I feel for those without the background I and some here have, makes for a very frustrating experience.
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:31 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
My problem is I am a very visual person. None of the photos that have been shown here or other threads look anything like the Univolt and wiring that I have. I have no fuses (at least that I can find) anywhere, only two AC CB's. Just a mass of 48 year old wiring that has been changed and added too over the years by several owners, most of whom seem to have known less about proper electrical work than I do.
It sounds like it is time to take it to a professional and pay to have it done right, or to find someone who does know how to do it, and will work with you. Too bad we are so far apart. I love electrical work...lol.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:49 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgr32e
This is how I solved the problem on mine, old and new together, lets me use the ammeter with new tech fuses for the regular circuits and hide it all out of harms way.....Phil
I tried something similar and found that I was losing about 0.3 to 0.7 volts in that old fuse block. The intelli power would put out 14.4 volts in boost mode but my batteries were only getting 13.7V. The loss was less when it was on the lower voltage modes. I ended up running 4 gauge wires directly from the converter to the battery (fused). I used the second set of outputs on the converter. Result...... Less than 0.1 V drop in boost mode (14.36V at the battery) this makes a huge difference in the time that it takes to charge my batteries.

Bottom line: check out your voltage at every connection between the converter and the batteries for losses, if you have losses, fix them in order to get the most value out of your 12V system. Google "solar bob" and he will explain the importance of voltage in much greater detail

Karl
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