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Old 06-10-2012, 12:48 PM   #15
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Thanks so much for the pictures. They help immensley. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post them.

I am clear and how to wire in the Intellipower but I am still confused as to how to replace the old, separate 12 V Distribution Panel with a new Parallax Power Supply DC Load Fuseblock. I have 15 fuse holders with a max of 20 AMP each, 3 DC positive inputs along the top, 15 branch circuits along the bottom & 4 Ground Terminal Bus contact points along the left side of the box. How would I go about correctly wiring in the Parallax Box? Thanks. Montanaandy

Idroba & Rodger - you both appear to have used the Parallax DC Load Fuseblock which I also plan on incorporating (my old fuseblock if falling apart). Idroba - in your pictures you are not using the 20 AMP portion of the Parallax and I was uncertain as to why you did this.

I have both the service manual for the trailer + the faceplate for the distribution box in front of me. My Univolt - Distribution box has connections for (starting from left to right on the Distrib. Panel) the power on light which connections to the control panel above the stove, followed by 4 x 15 AGC circuits for the wiring to the TV, followed by 5 x 20 A circuits to the 12 V items in the trailer (pump, fans, etc) followed by 2 x 50 amp circuits for the 2 batteries and then what appear to be a 30 amp and 20 amp connection which I assume go to the circuit breaker in the closet down the hall.

The schematic that Vintage Trailer supplies for the wiring of the DC Load Fuseblock just covers the Univolt to Intellpower conversion as far as I can tell.
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Old 06-10-2012, 12:53 PM   #16
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I Need To Read Posts More Closely...

Sorry Idroba - I now see that you were referencing 3 different trailers and 3 different installs. The 2nd install with the new Parallax box is similar to what I am doing. Thanks, Montanaandy
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:26 PM   #17
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Ok, let me try to clear up a few things. I re-wired my '81 Excella II, which had the univolt and fuse box up front behind the Goucho. Now, I have rewired my '75 Argosy, which had the Univolt and fuse box in the bathroom closet.
Some AS have fuses for the running/brake lights AND the fuses for the 12V interior/outside house lights in one fuse panel, like my Excella. My Argosy only has the wires for the fuses of the 12V house lights, therefore my re-wire is much simpler than my Excella. This is why there are going to be many different wiring situations. Yours may be similar to my Excella, and you need to identify which fuses are for running/brake, and which are for house 12V. The house 12 V is the wires you want to move to the new fuse panel, but the running/brake fuses do not connect into your house 12V, they run off of the tow vehicle. Myself, I would leave the running lights in the existing fuses, and just rewire the house 12V. Others may chime in on this.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:36 PM   #18
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Pictures & Diagrams

Roger - thanks for the input.

I have attempted to attach pictures of both my existing Distribution Panel diagram from the Service Manual for my trailer (78-31' Soverign) + pictures of the Parallax Panel that I want to sub in for the old distribution panel.

I am still not quite certain as to how I would go about wiring everything (i.e. new Intellipower + new Distribution Panel) from my old Univolt/existing panel.

Thanks, Montanaandy
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Old 06-10-2012, 02:01 PM   #19
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Well, when I did my Excella II I used the existing panel, which is what you have. What I did, I took my dremel, with a wire brush tool in it, and removed the fuses one at a time, and cleaned up the fuse, and the area that grips it in the holder, pinched the holder together a little so it would get a good contact. I did each fuse holder, and everything worked great. Saved a lot of work and rewiring. Of course, disconnect batteries and turn off/unplug power supply. I then wired new PD9245 on place of Univolt.
Because, you are going to be able to rewire only fuses 5-10 anyway. The rest have to stay as is. You cant move fuse 2-5 because they are part of the running/brake lights powered from your tow vehicle. Fuses 11-14 are 50 amp. which in my case, I purchased new fuse blocks with 50 Amp in them. So, you may want to try my clean up suggestion first, save time and $$.
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Old 06-10-2012, 02:53 PM   #20
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Ok so now I am really getting confused.

1st off, my existing distribution panel that is depicted in the photos is shot. It is literally falling apart. Yes I could spend some time and effort trying to repair it but everything I have read/everyone that I have spoken with about this told me to purchase a new panel with bladed fuses because it is superior to the OEM panel in the trailer.

It has been my assumption that the Parallax box that I purchased could replace the distribution panel that currently resides in the trailer and which is separate and apart from the Univolt (apparently with some Univolt models there is a fuse panel that is part of the Univolt itself)

So I guess my question is this - can I sub in this Parallax box for the old DC Distribution box that came with the trailer or do I have to purchase something else other than the Parallax box in order to be able to phase out the old DC Distribution box as well as install the new Intellipower converter? Thanks, Montanaandy
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Old 06-10-2012, 04:00 PM   #21
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Yes you can use the new fuse panel, to replace old panel fuses 6-10. No, you cannot use new fuse panel for fuses 2-5, because those wires are from the tow vehicle, so you need some other type of fuse panel. Fuses 11-14 are battery fuses, 50 amp, and you cannot use your new fuse panel for them either, you will need to get 50 amp fuse holders/new fuses for them. Fuse 1 will no longer be needed.
The assumption that you can use the Parrellex panel to replace all the fuses in the old panel is incorrect.
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Old 06-10-2012, 05:30 PM   #22
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Unintellipower

If you are not planning on recycling your old Univolt as a boat anchor you can have your Univolt and eat it too! I call this frankencharger UNITELLIPOWER This setup lets you keep the fuse panel of your Univolt and piggyback a 9245. Also (theoretically) lets you use your vintage OEM ammeter.
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Old 06-10-2012, 06:14 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerdodger
The assumption that you can use the Parrellex panel to replace all the fuses in the old panel is incorrect.
This is what I was trying to determine - thanks for the answer. Basically I would have to replace the entire 12 V distribution fuse panel and not just sub in the Parallax DC Load Fuse block.

I have been going in part by what I read on the Best Converter website which covers the replacement of an Airstream Univolt with a modern converter such as the Intellipower and which states in part:

"If your unit has a separate DC distribution panel located on a wall for instance, you do not need a new fuse panel unless you want to replace glass fuses with modern automotive blade style fuses common in new RVs."

This is essentially what I want to do - to be able to install the Intellipower and have blades fuses and not glass fuses controlling the 12V things in the trailer powered by the converter.

So it appears that I have to find a way to tie in the new Parallax 12 V Fuse Panel to the existing 12 V Distribution Fuse Panel (Remote Fuse Panel) which will allow me to use ATC type fuses in place of the old glass fuses with respect to protecting the interior lights, fans, water pump, & other 12 V appliances. OK, how to I go about doing this given my setup? Thanks, Montanaandy
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:08 PM   #24
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If you look at the left side of your first diagram you posted, you will see that there is a 4 amp fuse for the "power on light" which is a function of the Univolt only and cannot be easily made to work with the new converter/charger. So, that wire or wires will not be used and you will have no "power on" light in your new system.

The next 4 fuses (2,3,4,5)are for the stop, tail, running and backup lights. They are to be kept separate from the coach 12 volt power system, so I would suggest a second fuse block with space for 4 blade type fuses to replace those. AS used fuses in the exterior light circuits for a while in the 70's and 80's but why it was done is a real question. The fuses in the tow vehicle do the same thing, and protect the wiring both in the TV and the AS, so those fuses are really unnecessary and could be eliminated if you want.

The next set of fuses in your diagram are the coach circuits, 6,7,8,9,10. Those are the ones you want connected to the new blade type fuse box you have now. You can connect the + line from the new PD converter to one of the three large terminals on the upper part of the fuse panel you show you have, and each battery to the the other two large terminals. That leaves the batteries unfused, so, if you want, you could get 4 maxi fuse in line fuse holders, two for the + lines and two for the - lines. I would put them close to the batteries if possible but anywhere in the line would duplicate what AS did with the large 50 amp glass fuses in the old panel.

See if that helps any.
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:24 PM   #25
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That Helps Quite A Bit...

Idroba:

Your step by step instructions helped a great deal. Normally I don't require this much "hand holding" when it comes to electrical wiring but this one has really thrown me for a loop. My trailer is in a remote part of MT and I really have to make certain that I have all my ducks in a row because if I am missing a part or don't do something correctly there is a large price to pay in terms of time and $$$. Thanks, Montanaandy
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:50 PM   #26
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What Idroba said. However, If it were me, I would go to an automotive parts supply and get 4 individual fuse holders to replace fuses 2,3,4,5. Make sure the new individual fuse holders use the same type as the parallex box. I also purchased my two(in your case 4) 50 amp fuse holders and fuses(these will be much larger in size) for in line to the battery at an automotive parts house. Then you have replaced all the old glass fuses.
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:57 PM   #27
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Also, the new Parallax fuse box has a ground terminal bus. You must connect the white wire coming from the frame ground(load neg) on old panel to this bus. Also, the neg from the PD9260, and neg from the batterys goes here.
Idroba will check me on this.
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:14 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by rogerdodger View Post
Also, the new Parallax fuse box has a ground terminal bus. You must connect the white wire coming from the frame ground(load neg) on old panel to this bus. Also, the neg from the PD9260, and neg from the batterys goes here.
Idroba will check me on this.

Yes, you are exactly right on the ground wire and block.
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