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Old 02-19-2017, 10:38 AM   #1
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PD4655 Install with Pictures

Hi, I'm new to the forum and new to Airstream. We just purchased a used 2016 Flying Cloud 19' and I've been doing some upgrades on the electrical system. There are loads of threads on PD4655 Converter upgrade install, but not many pictures. I took pictures of my install so I hope this will help others with this easy upgrade.

First the unit, Progressive Dynamics, Inc Inteli-Power 4655



STOP – Did you remember to turn off the power to the trailer? Unplug shore power, disconnect the batteries, double check that everything is off!!!

Remove the screws covering the converter and distribution center, I didn’t take pictures of the screws but there are 4 on the main faceplate and a couple securing the converter in place itself. I took a couple of pictures at this point to remind myself which wire went with this fuse. Of course if you look they are all 15 amp so it does not really matter.



You need to remove all the wires connecting the old converter, firstly the blue and white 12v wires. These require an allen wrench, you can see that poking out of the picture.



Next onto disconnecting the 110v feed wires. At least on my year of Airstream, the black wire is connected via a wire nut. Disconnect the black wire leading to the converter.



Next onto the 110v white wire. This one is screwed into a distribution bus bar block



Amazingly that’s it. With these wires disconnected and the screws holding the old converter in place removed, the old converter will slide out.



Put the new converter in place and pull the wires through the holes.



Notice that the PD4655 has a black and white 12v wires, not the blue and white as you removed. This is fine, the black wire on the new converter is the same as the blue wire on the old one.

Next onto wiring in the new 12v distribution board. Here you can see the old board still installed and the new board in front. Take note that the boards are not identical, the new board has a set of low current connections on the left of the board. You do not want to use these, use the main ones only. You can see that I have pulled the 15 amp fuses from the old board and put them into the new board.



As most other threads on this subject note, it’s a bit tight working on the 12v board. The wires have no slack at all but I was able to pull the old board out and to the side which makes working on it easier. You can see I have removed the large red positive wire and the white negative wire.



Put the new 12v distribution board in place, don’t forget to install the converter control cable as well, this is the wires with the plug on the end.



For the large red wire, I found that if I looped the top over as in the picture it sat nicely in the connector



I then connected the 12v feed wires, bottom of the board and the black wire to the top.



Finally I connected up the white wires. If you are observant you will notice in the picture below that I forgot to install the control wires, hence the tip above not to forget it.



Now it’s time to hook up the 110v to the new PD4655 converter.

The PD4655 has an earth, ground connection, the old converter did not. Hook the green ground connection from the converter to an available spot on the earth block. Look for the bare copper wires going into a block, this is the earth block.



The white wire of the new converter goes into the white wire distribution block, same place as the one you removed earlier.



The black wire connected to the other black wires using a wire nut, I reused the wire nut that was connecting the wires in the first place. Don’t forget to connect all the black wires back, there were three total for me.



Basically that’s it.



At this point I suggest checking everything you just did. Make sure that all wires are securely connected. Make sure that all wires are going to the correct connections.

STOP, check again, just in case ��

Turn back on the power, and make sure everything is working. The PD4655 worked perfectly for me. It powered up, charges as needed and more importantly, floats the batteries at the correct voltage. Now we can keep the Airstream plugged into shore power without fear that the batteries will be damaged.

I've installed a couple of banks of sealed lead acid 235 AH batteries, when I get time I'll create a thread on that too.
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Old 02-19-2017, 03:55 PM   #2
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Terrific, thanks for posting. I'll be doing this on my 23 FB in the spring. Are the batteries you mentioned 6v batteries?
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Old 02-19-2017, 04:50 PM   #3
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Nice work! And great photo instructions.
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Old 02-19-2017, 05:50 PM   #4
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I also did this on my 23fb. The hardest part is laying on the floor for an hour or so to swap it all . As you can see from the previous post if you can operate a screwdriver you can do this. Dave
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Old 02-19-2017, 08:28 PM   #5
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Might be a silly question, but do you have to swap out the 12v board? That is part of the converter kit AND differs from stock?

Thanks for the writeup. On my list of tasks.
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Old 02-19-2017, 08:40 PM   #6
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Excellent step-by-step post with great photos. I believe this is the first one on this forum, when we changed ours over I could not find a clear example like this anywhere on the internet. Thank you.
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Old 02-20-2017, 02:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ View Post
Might be a silly question, but do you have to swap out the 12v board? That is part of the converter kit AND differs from stock?

Thanks for the writeup. On my list of tasks.

The new 12v board comes with the kit. The main difference is that the new board has a little LED on it to let you know what the charger is doing. Flashes fast when on boost and slow at float. Oh, there is a button (tiny) to manually force the charger into a different mode vs. it's automatic mode.

You don't have to install it from what I had read from others. Folks just like the visual and manual override.

Yes, I installed two banks of 6v SLA batteries. One set, two batteries, in the stock box location, another set under the bed. Other goodies include automatic charge relays, an AH meter (500amp shunt), 200W solar and a secondary 2000W pure sine wave inverter. Fun stuff.
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Old 02-20-2017, 05:36 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ View Post
Might be a silly question, but do you have to swap out the 12v board?
You have the option of achieving the same effect by using the optonal charge wizzard pendant that plugs right into the 4655 and can be mounted in any close by location. This give you the same blinking led light indicator plus the over ride button that is on the new fuse panel without having to switch fuse panels. On the included fuse panel the led and overide button are only accessible by opening the panel cover. The remote pendant can be mounted where is easily visible/accessible all the time.
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Old 02-20-2017, 05:39 AM   #9
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Thanks and thanks. I like that remote option.
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Old 02-20-2017, 09:59 AM   #10
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I had mine installed at a local RV shop. We didn't put the pendant in but I have it and know where it would go if I want to use it. I explained to the tech that Randy at Best informed me we wouldn't need to swap out that board if we just used the pendant from the start and that would have saved a half hour I'm pretty sure.
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Old 02-20-2017, 07:40 PM   #11
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I have the 4655 and a 9200 series remote pendant... I could not see where the pendant rj45 plugs into the converter? Maybe I have the wrong pendant?
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Old 02-20-2017, 08:47 PM   #12
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See the pictures above. Note the last picture which is just above the sentence "at this point I recommend checking everything you just did".

Note multiwire plug with white, yellow, red, black wires. This is the plug connection for the remote pendant. The one in the picture is the one provided to connect the new DC board control button to converter board if no pendant is used. If you install the pendant you do not install the double ended cable that comes with the converter kit. You also do not have to install the new DC board, if the reports here are correct. Suggest you contact Randy and verify. You do have to connect the new converter wiring to replace the old converter connections to the original DC board. Plug in the remote and mount the pendant outside the converter on the cabinet with double back tape.

Believe the original DC board has better load connection hardware unless you want to crimp fork lugs like the ones below on the load wires.
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Old 02-20-2017, 09:11 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by RivaHaven View Post
I have the 4655 and a 9200 series remote pendant... I could not see where the pendant rj45 plugs into the converter? Maybe I have the wrong pendant?


You have to cut off the RJ45 and splice on the provided cable. I chose to do this and keep the factory dc board. The new board seemed flimsy.

http://www.progressivedyn.com/pdfs/P...for_PD4600.pdf
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:10 AM   #14
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Can I just replace my converter with this 4655 and my existing OEM batteries? Will this help keep them from over charging? My rig is only 8 months~ old so don't want to replace batteries until necessary.
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