PD4655 Install with Pictures

[68 Overlander]

Since Boog already has a funtioning Iota, I would use it too. If I were buying it today, I would use the Boondocker. Not a huge difference and similar charge profile but the Boondocker has a better warranty/value, comes in hard wire configuration and we never have problems with them. Boog will need to chop the plug off which voids the warranty but since its that old anyway, nothing to lose.

[mojoe7009]

Originally Posted by 68 Overlander

Since Boog already has a funtioning Iota, I would use it too. If I were buying it today, I would use the Boondocker. Not a huge difference and similar charge profile but the Boondocker has a better warranty/value, comes in hard wire configuration and we never have problems with them. Boog will need to chop the plug off which voids the warranty but since its that old anyway, nothing to lose.

That's true and you are the expert. But for a novice to install, being able to just plug the PD 9270 into the outlet and not get involved in hardwiring made it easy, straightforward and relatively quick.

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by mojoe7009

That's true and you are the expert. But for a novice to install, being able to just plug the PD 9270 into the outlet and not get involved in hardwiring made it easy, straightforward and relatively quick.

I get it , don't blame you. You guys own Airstreams so you have to be resourceful

[Boog]

Thanks again Mojoe and Randy, since I had everything apart for my PI surge protector install, I swapped out the converter for the Iota on your inspiration (cut the cord).
Sorry about stomping on the original PD4655 thread

[kyleengstrom]

-Chu

[D44]

Originally Posted by ATownTX

I installed mine yesterday on my 2016 FC 19' (same as the OP). There was one minor difference... The existing 110v AC black wire from the converter was not connected at the wire nut, it was spliced near the breaker with another wire that went to the wire nut. I had to remove the breaker to get to the splice. I cut the black wire from the parallax converter and put it back in the breaker (first removing the spliced wire) and then connected the 3 wires with the wire nut. The photo below shows the existing splice (pigtail??) that went to the breaker.

I ran into the same problem but didn't see your solution before I cut the black wire from the parallax at the breaker splice.

I guess now I have to run the PD 4655 black wire to the breaker splice, make up a new splice, and insert back into the breaker?

Also, does anyone have a suggestion as to how to back out the screw holding the white parallax wire to the distribution buss? The head on the screw holding mine is stripped and I cannot move it. I assume I can use one of the three unused positions for attaching the white from the PD 4655 but I am stuck on how to get the parallax wire out.

Thanks,
Walt

[bwpaint]

saving

[D44]

Partial update - "it is a poor workman who blames his tools" - guilty. The stripped screw came right out after I went to Home Depot and bought a #2 square screwdriver type tool that apparently is exactly what i should have been using from the start.

Still stumped by the crimp connection that goes into the base of the breaker - I guess I will go to an electrical supply house tomorrow to see if they have something similar that i could use - unless someone can suggest a work-around - ATownTX can you describe your end result in a little more detail?

Thanks

[ATownTX]

Originally Posted by D44

Partial update - "it is a poor workman who blames his tools" - guilty. The stripped screw came right out after I went to Home Depot and bought a #2 square screwdriver type tool that apparently is exactly what i should have been using from the start.

Still stumped by the crimp connection that goes into the base of the breaker - I guess I will go to an electrical supply house tomorrow to see if they have something similar that i could use - unless someone can suggest a work-around - ATownTX can you describe your end result in a little more detail?

Thanks

I pm'd you. But basically I reused the crimp at the breaker and cut off one of the wires. Then spliced everything that should be on that breaker back together with a wire nut. It working.

[D44]

Clicks, sparks and smoke. I don't think I did it right . . .

[ATownTX]

I'm hoping you disconnected the batteries before you do this. If that's the case, and it's sparking after you hook the batteries back up, the. you will need to check ALL of your wiring.

[D44]

Everything was disconnected when I changed the converter. After I wired up the converter I connected the batteries and the D.C. Side was operational.

I connected shore power and flipped the main breaker and the next breaker. When I flipped the 3rd breaker (with the jumper) there was a series of clicking, then sparks and smoke. The breaker did not trip. I threw the main breaker and disconnected the shore power. The D.C. Side is still operational.

I have disconnected the battery, disconnected the shore power, and I have disconnected the wire nut and the three hot legs in the nut. I am having a beer and asking myself why I tried to do this myself.

[mythbuster88]

Originally Posted by D44

Everything was disconnected when I changed the converter. After I wired up the converter I connected the batteries and the D.C. Side was operational.

I connected shore power and flipped the main breaker and the next breaker. When I flipped the 3rd breaker (with the jumper) there was a series of clicking, then sparks and smoke. The breaker did not trip. I threw the main breaker and disconnected the shore power. The D.C. Side is still operational.

I have disconnected the battery, disconnected the shore power, and I have disconnected the wire nut and the three hot legs in the nut. I am having a beer and asking myself why I tried to do this myself.

Can you take some pictures of where your at? Maybe we can help with your mis wire.

[D44]

Yes, when i finish feeling sorry for myself I will shoot some pictures. May also try to reinstall the old parallax and let Colonial take a look at it when i bring Sparky in for some other warranty work in July.

Thanks for your help

[paiceman]

Originally Posted by D44

I ran into the same problem but didn't see your solution before I cut the black wire from the parallax at the breaker splice.

I guess now I have to run the PD 4655 black wire to the breaker splice, make up a new splice, and insert back into the breaker?

Also, does anyone have a suggestion as to how to back out the screw holding the white parallax wire to the distribution buss? The head on the screw holding mine is stripped and I cannot move it. I assume I can use one of the three unused positions for attaching the white from the PD 4655 but I am stuck on how to get the parallax wire out.

Thanks,
Walt

You can, any of the bus's screws can be used

[D44]

So after talking to the service department at Colonial and Randy at Bestconverter it appears that I hooked the black and white wires from the D.C. Side of the PD 4655 to the AC side of the trailer. I used the black and white wires on the left side of the converter, directly under the AC trailer connection. I should have used the black and white wires that were bundled with the green ground wire. Randy thought that the sparks and smoke was me burning out the board on the new converter.

Looks like the old Parallax will go back in until I can order a replacement PD 4655 - or I will leave if for Colonial to do in mid-July. A moderately expensive reminder to read ALL directions and labels a number of times and to check everything multiple times before throwing the switch.

[Rocinante]

Yikes! You definitely let the smoke out.
Glad nothing worse happened, best of luck with the next attempt!

[johndorst]

Originally Posted by ATownTX

I installed mine yesterday on my 2016 FC 19' (same as the OP). There was one minor difference... The existing 110v AC black wire from the converter was not connected at the wire nut, it was spliced near the breaker with another wire that went to the wire nut. I had to remove the breaker to get to the splice. I cut the black wire from the parallax converter and put it back in the breaker (first removing the spliced wire) and then connected the 3 wires with the wire nut. The photo below shows the existing splice (pigtail??) that went to the breaker.

I had the same configuration as you and resolved it the same way.

I didn't order the remote but now that I see an installation, I can picture how I'd install it. However, my ZAMP solar controller also displays what the input voltage is to the batteries, so having the remote isn't quite so crucial.

[DreamsInSlvr]

Hello,
Thank you for your post. I have a similar situation on my 2013 23D. How do you remove the circuit breaker ?? or can I leave the black wire from the old converter in the unit with tape over the end?

Thanks for your help.

Jim

[dasams]

Originally Posted by D44

I used the black and white wires on the left side of the converter, directly under the AC trailer connection. I should have used the black and white wires that were bundled with the green ground wire.

I did the same damn thing. The instructions aren't very good IMO. This is a simple install and should take 10 minutes the second time you do it. But the first time is tricky. Sorry it didn't go well.