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Old 06-18-2017, 07:51 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by D44 View Post
Everything was disconnected when I changed the converter. After I wired up the converter I connected the batteries and the D.C. Side was operational.

I connected shore power and flipped the main breaker and the next breaker. When I flipped the 3rd breaker (with the jumper) there was a series of clicking, then sparks and smoke. The breaker did not trip. I threw the main breaker and disconnected the shore power. The D.C. Side is still operational.

I have disconnected the battery, disconnected the shore power, and I have disconnected the wire nut and the three hot legs in the nut. I am having a beer and asking myself why I tried to do this myself.
Can you take some pictures of where your at? Maybe we can help with your mis wire.
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Old 06-18-2017, 09:18 PM   #114
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Yes, when i finish feeling sorry for myself I will shoot some pictures. May also try to reinstall the old parallax and let Colonial take a look at it when i bring Sparky in for some other warranty work in July.

Thanks for your help
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Old 06-19-2017, 11:43 AM   #115
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Originally Posted by D44 View Post
I ran into the same problem but didn't see your solution before I cut the black wire from the parallax at the breaker splice.

I guess now I have to run the PD 4655 black wire to the breaker splice, make up a new splice, and insert back into the breaker?

Also, does anyone have a suggestion as to how to back out the screw holding the white parallax wire to the distribution buss? The head on the screw holding mine is stripped and I cannot move it. I assume I can use one of the three unused positions for attaching the white from the PD 4655 but I am stuck on how to get the parallax wire out.

Thanks,
Walt
You can, any of the bus's screws can be used
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Old 06-19-2017, 04:46 PM   #116
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So after talking to the service department at Colonial and Randy at Bestconverter it appears that I hooked the black and white wires from the D.C. Side of the PD 4655 to the AC side of the trailer. I used the black and white wires on the left side of the converter, directly under the AC trailer connection. I should have used the black and white wires that were bundled with the green ground wire. Randy thought that the sparks and smoke was me burning out the board on the new converter.

Looks like the old Parallax will go back in until I can order a replacement PD 4655 - or I will leave if for Colonial to do in mid-July. A moderately expensive reminder to read ALL directions and labels a number of times and to check everything multiple times before throwing the switch.
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:19 PM   #117
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Yikes! You definitely let the smoke out.
Glad nothing worse happened, best of luck with the next attempt!
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:33 PM   #118
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Originally Posted by ATownTX View Post
I installed mine yesterday on my 2016 FC 19' (same as the OP). There was one minor difference... The existing 110v AC black wire from the converter was not connected at the wire nut, it was spliced near the breaker with another wire that went to the wire nut. I had to remove the breaker to get to the splice. I cut the black wire from the parallax converter and put it back in the breaker (first removing the spliced wire) and then connected the 3 wires with the wire nut. The photo below shows the existing splice (pigtail??) that went to the breaker.
I had the same configuration as you and resolved it the same way.

I didn't order the remote but now that I see an installation, I can picture how I'd install it. However, my ZAMP solar controller also displays what the input voltage is to the batteries, so having the remote isn't quite so crucial.
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:49 AM   #119
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Hello,
Thank you for your post. I have a similar situation on my 2013 23D. How do you remove the circuit breaker ?? or can I leave the black wire from the old converter in the unit with tape over the end?

Thanks for your help.

Jim
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Old 09-12-2017, 11:00 PM   #120
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Originally Posted by D44 View Post
I used the black and white wires on the left side of the converter, directly under the AC trailer connection. I should have used the black and white wires that were bundled with the green ground wire.
I did the same damn thing. The instructions aren't very good IMO. This is a simple install and should take 10 minutes the second time you do it. But the first time is tricky. Sorry it didn't go well.
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Old 09-21-2017, 09:28 PM   #121
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I did the same damn thing. The instructions aren't very good IMO. This is a simple install and should take 10 minutes the second time you do it. But the first time is tricky. Sorry it didn't go well.
I agree with this. The instructions are pretty clear, but to somebody that had never twisted a screwdriver, it take a little thinking like an Ikea piece of furniture when I was younger It's not difficult and when I get the call, it usually on the final step and most have it right but just want to make sure.
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Old 02-17-2018, 03:49 PM   #122
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Thanks to Snowy for the original posting of this thread. His/her posting of pictures and steps for upgrading from Parallax to PD4655 was a great help!

Next, I'd like to thank Randy of BestConverter.com for his expert guidance and recommendations. He appears in Airforums, and in this thread, as a Commercial Member as 68 Overlander.

My transplant was successful and not too difficult. I'll just add a couple of comments about what I encountered. Most of these are already covered if you do a careful reading of this long thread, and I certainly encourage you to do so especially if you are not super experienced doing this sort of stuff.
1) Yeah, do disconnect all power sources, including battery and shore power. Go back and check.
2) Use your cell phone to take some pictures as you go. I kept a pad of paper handy to make notes on, too.
3) The way Snowy transferred all the DC output connections to the distribution board worked well for me.
4)The first two positions on the distribution board are for some sort of low current use. Didn't know what would qualify for that, so I started with circuit position 3, as did the OP. Theres plenty of circuits left over still for my simple system.
5) Some of the wiring needs to be longer to reach their destination on the new board. You can take the 4 securing screws out and move the entire unit out. Getting behind the chasis, you can loosen the restraint clamps and feed more wire into the DC distribution area. Don't forget to retighten the restraint clamps for reassembly.
6) Be careful with the wiring from the converter, below, to the AC and DC distribution boards, above. After I read of D44 experience, and before I fired everything up, I disassembled the covers and checked every connection—a third time. The three wires (black, white and green, should be loosely bundled together with wire tie) need to cross over from the right side of the converter and go into the AC distribution panel on the left upper side (with the circuit breakers in it). The black and white pair of wires need to cross over from the left side of the converter to the right side DC panel. The layout is not intuitive, so triple check this so you don't let any smoke out!
7) My unit had the weird "Y" splice that goes into one of the circuit breakers that is not mentioned in the instructions. The one that powers the converter/charger below. Unless you can figure out a way to reuse this "Y splice", you need to come up with a solution that does not have you putting two wires into one breaker connection point. I had a piece of scrap 14G 3-wire cable from a home-improvement project that I cut a section of 14G black wire (solid copper wire) from. I used about 3-4" to make a pigtail to the breaker. I connected all the other needed wires to this pigtail, reusing the original wire nut. Various ways to solve this puzzle are covered in several other posts.
8) Check all your connections again, before testing. I crossed my fingers and brought up various parts of the circuitry one a at time. I'm sure that was just superstitious behavior that did not help in any way, but it made me feel better.
8)You need to use the new provided screws to secure the face-cover to the now upgraded converter charger. The old screws are too large diameter to go into the new converter/charger lower unit. This point is subtle, but you can waste some time trying to reuse the old screws (don't ask me how I know). This point has also been made before, but somehow I missed it.

So, how's it all work now? Overall, I'm mostly satisfied. As I said, I brought various part of the system up gradually, so it took a couple days to have everything working together. Finally, I left it plugged in overnight and went home...

When I got back the next day, there was a very noticeable hum coming from the unit. All loads (that I know of) were off, the battery seemed fully charged, and the pendant was blinking in a "flash about every 6 sec" mode, which I think means the charger is in storage or maintenance mode. This was a disturbing noise. I took the cover off and inspected the fans, could find no evidence of fan movement. I turned on the overhead (incandescent, for now) lighting, the hum immediately went away. Light off, hum back. Tried some of the LED lights I converted: 1 LED—hum decreased, 2 LEDs—decreased some more, 3 LEDs—could not detect hum. Hmmmm (no pun intended). Put everything back in full hum mode, and went on and switched the LPG switch—hum gone. Next, I called Randy! He said this is a fairly common problem that usually goes away with use, just to go about using my system as I normally would, and if it doesn't go away, or at least become a non-issue, to get back with him. Now, I don't exactly understand why it's doing this, and why it would go away. But for now, that's what I'm doing. We shall see.
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Old 02-23-2018, 02:32 PM   #123
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Subscribing, very helpful thread.
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:18 PM   #124
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Snowy

Your step by step instructions along with the color pics were much better than the b&w instructions from PD.

I was able to install pretty quickly and it works! I The hard part was putting back all the small screws.

Thanks!
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:43 PM   #125
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My next project
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Old 03-19-2018, 06:28 PM   #126
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Converter installed - no power to interior lights

I own a 20' 2016 Flying Cloud and recently (this weekend) exchanged the Parallax converter to the PD 4655, following the detailed instructions and photos from Snowy. The install seemed to progress without any problems. The following day I installed my batteries and also connected to shore power, to charge the batteries in preparation for our trip next week.

I noticed in the breaker panel, breaker #3 and #5 from the left were tripped down to the off position. Breaker #5 did switch to the on position, however I cannot get the #3 breaker to stay in the on position. Also, the light on the remote wizard pendent did not come on, indicating it is not functioning. All other lights, fan, and other switches work.

I have attached (hopefully) three pictures to possibly provide trouble shooting and insight. I knew this should be a simple project, however just looking at anything electrical creates a "fear factor". (if the pictures are not attached, can someone offer assistance to attach from my desktop?)

Thanks, Skip
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