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Old 04-03-2017, 11:08 AM   #71
2016 19ft flying cloud
 
Spokane , Washington
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So, what's the final verdict ?
My new FC has the 8355 installed

Is it going to kill my batteries if plugged in over summer?
I'm ready to order the 4655 converter
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:22 PM   #72
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Great post! Following for near future reference.

Thanks.
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Old 04-07-2017, 08:10 PM   #73
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Have the 4655 installed but have yet heard fans running. I hear an electrical noise occasionally but not sure if all is well
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Old 04-07-2017, 10:36 PM   #74
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Have the 4655 installed but have yet heard fans running. I hear an electrical noise occasionally but not sure if all is well
Anticipating fan run will drive you crazy. It runs when it needs to and temp controlled. It has it's own hot flashes but takes care of itself.
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:43 PM   #75
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I want to thank Snowy and all those that asked questions so that today when I upgraded to the PD4655 it was a piece of cake. Something I've wanted to do since last winter to protect my almost four year old batteries.
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Old 04-20-2017, 11:14 PM   #76
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PD4655 Installation notes

Installed my PD4655 in my 2014 FC 23 FB today, replacing the stock Parallax 7355. Pretty straight forward but were a few differences that I encountered from the provided instructions and updates to Snowy's install pics and instructions (since I chose the remote pendant) as well as some further comments on this thread.

1. You can leave the old 12v distribution board in place if you wish. Changing out the board is the toughest part of the job. It just won't have the blinking light to indicate charge mode status, nor the override button that allows you to change the charge mode manually.

2. If you choose to leave the old 12v board in place, but want the functionality of being able to see the blinking light and have the override button, you can order the remote pendant along with your new unit. It's only $15 if you choose to order one along with your new converter. You can then plug it in to the 120v board in your new unit, and mount it outside the louvered cover. Or just leave it inside if you want to have access to it but don't want to see it at a glance.

3. If you want to have the charge status light and the override button, but don't care about the remote pendant, you will replace the existing 12v board with the new one. Then there is a provided cable that plugs into the new 12v board on one end, and into the 120v board on the new converter. No splicing required. You then need to open the cover whenever you want to see the charge status or override it.

4. I wanted to have the remote pendant to mount outside the cover, but ALSO have the ability to revert to the indicator light and override button that is on the 12v board. This was in case the pendant ever failed, or for whatever reason I decided not to use it. So in my case, I installed the new 12v board. Then I plugged the provided cable into it, but left the other end disconnected and just left it tucked in behind the cover. It's a dead connection so no harm done. This was so I would not lose the cable should I need it later. Then, you plug the pendant into the unused plug on the 120v board that normally would have the cable plugged in. I then mounted the pendant just outside the cover, on the left. Very neat and out of the way, and I can see the charge status at a glance.

5. To use the new 12v board, the heavy red and white battery wires would not reach the lugs on the board, no way were they long enough. I had to remove the four screws securing the entire power center to the wall, and pull it out a few inches...there is enough slack to do so. Then, I loosened the screws on the strain relief on the back of the power center that is holding those wires, so that I could pull a few more inches of both of them into the power center chassis. Then retightened the strain relief and pushed the power center back in. This allowed enough slack of those two fat wires to run up behind the new board as required, and bend over the top for installation in the lugs.

6. The last thing, I installed my 8 or 9 DC distribution wires from the old board to the new board in the exact same fuse positions. After, I realized that the first two positions on the left had the fuses offset a bit higher than the original, and the board had writing on it saying "recommended for low current circuits." I don't think it makes any difference, I believe that is just a place to put low current circuits that might be required in other applications/rv's, and have them be obvious by the offset fuse positions. In my case, all the fuses were 15A, so I have 15A fuses in those first two positions. I emailed Randy to ask if it actually matters--and if so, will just have to move my DC distribution wires 2 places to the right and leave the "low current" fuse places empty.

That's about it. Oh yeah...make sure you remember that there are four new screws provided to put the cover back on...they are smaller than the stock ones, which are too big to fit the holes in the new unit. Took me about a half hour of cussing before I figured out I had put them aside earlier and forgotten about them.

Overall, pretty easy. I'd recommend taking some photos before you take stuff apart though just to be sure of what wires go where. Mine's in the driveway on shore power so hopefully there won't be a heap of melted aluminum in the morning.

Sorry for the sideways pic, it uploaded straight but posted this way.
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:34 AM   #77
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I'm installing mine today with the board but my pendent arrives next week. For those interested, the converter is shipped and sold by Amazon and is part of the Prime program. The pendent is from a 3rd party on Amazon but I think Amazon offers them too as part of their Prime program.

I have the same 2016 FC 19' as the OP so I should be able to install it exactly as in the OP's photos.
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:58 AM   #78
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Pcskier, your installation description is identical to my experience with our 23D, down to cussing about the cover screws. I too left the original control cable plugged into the 12v board so I wouldn't lose it. However, I didn't use the low current positions for the circuits.
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:48 PM   #79
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Pcskier, your installation description is identical to my experience with our 23D, down to cussing about the cover screws. I too left the original control cable plugged into the 12v board so I wouldn't lose it. However, I didn't use the low current positions for the circuits.
While I don't think it matters, I'm bothered enough having used the low current positions that I'm going to go back in and move all the DC wires over two positions. Probably being a bit OCD but....
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Old 04-21-2017, 03:06 PM   #80
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While I don't think it matters, I'm bothered enough having used the low current positions that I'm going to go back in and move all the DC wires over two positions. Probably being a bit OCD but....

That's not OCD, thats the right thing to do IMO. I can't confirm but I bet that the PCB tracks are thinner for those fused connection, hence the warning to use them only for low current circuits.

I'm pretty sure I mentioned this in the original write up. Well at least a note saying I didn't use them.

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I'm happy that the thread and pictures are helpful.
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Old 04-21-2017, 03:14 PM   #81
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That's not OCD, thats the right thing to do IMO. I can't confirm but I bet that the PCB tracks are thinner for those fused connection, hence the warning to use them only for low current circuits.

I'm pretty sure I mentioned this in the original write up. Well at least a note saying I didn't use them.

I'm happy that the thread and pictures are helpful.
HAHA I was just reading your instructions again and YES indeed you clearly mentioned the existence of the 'low current' fuse positions and NOT to use them. It was bothering me enough that I had decided to change it, but re-reading your post, and your new post just now, confirmed it for me to do it.

One other thing I noticed, on your stock unit, the heavy red and white battery + and - wires came up in front of the old board to lugs located at the top, and the new ones were installed similarly. On my 2014 unit, the lugs were in a different spot on the board, the negative being on the bottom right, and the positive being on the right about halfway up, so there was no way they would reach the lugs on the new board that are at the top. That's why I had to pull the power center out to loosen the strain relief and pull more wire through. Also the instructions for replacing my Parallax 7355 stated to install the battery wires behind the board, not in front, so I did. The only thing I noticed with having them in front on your installation is that the white battery '-' wire might be blocking easy access to the blinking light and overide buttion, which doesn't matter if you use the pendant, or are just choosing to not worry about what the charge status is, and just trust it, which sounds like a perfectly sound plan anyway, these things seem to be very proven.

Anyway...gonna move those distribution wires over this afternoon and DONE and DONE. Looking forward to checking my batts with a voltmeter and hydrometer and compare to the readings I took yesterday after they had been on the stock charger for 24 hours. The pendant right now is still showing they are in 'normal' mode, meaning still charging, which suggests to me that they were not fully charged by the stock unit.

Thanks again for all the advice and guidance.
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Old 04-21-2017, 04:03 PM   #82
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It might be in normal mode for a couple of days. Seems like it slowly tops the battery until it decides to float. Enjoy
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Old 04-21-2017, 04:10 PM   #83
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You might also consider crimping on a set of forked lugs to get uniform clamping with the load side hardware on the new DC board. Pat
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Old 04-22-2017, 06:45 AM   #84
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I installed mine yesterday on my 2016 FC 19' (same as the OP). There was one minor difference... The existing 110v AC black wire from the converter was not connected at the wire nut, it was spliced near the breaker with another wire that went to the wire nut. I had to remove the breaker to get to the splice. I cut the black wire from the parallax converter and put it back in the breaker (first removing the spliced wire) and then connected the 3 wires with the wire nut. The photo below shows the existing splice (pigtail??) that went to the breaker.
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