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Old 04-21-2017, 04:14 PM   #81
3rd one is the charm?
 
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Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
That's not OCD, thats the right thing to do IMO. I can't confirm but I bet that the PCB tracks are thinner for those fused connection, hence the warning to use them only for low current circuits.

I'm pretty sure I mentioned this in the original write up. Well at least a note saying I didn't use them.

I'm happy that the thread and pictures are helpful.
HAHA I was just reading your instructions again and YES indeed you clearly mentioned the existence of the 'low current' fuse positions and NOT to use them. It was bothering me enough that I had decided to change it, but re-reading your post, and your new post just now, confirmed it for me to do it.

One other thing I noticed, on your stock unit, the heavy red and white battery + and - wires came up in front of the old board to lugs located at the top, and the new ones were installed similarly. On my 2014 unit, the lugs were in a different spot on the board, the negative being on the bottom right, and the positive being on the right about halfway up, so there was no way they would reach the lugs on the new board that are at the top. That's why I had to pull the power center out to loosen the strain relief and pull more wire through. Also the instructions for replacing my Parallax 7355 stated to install the battery wires behind the board, not in front, so I did. The only thing I noticed with having them in front on your installation is that the white battery '-' wire might be blocking easy access to the blinking light and overide buttion, which doesn't matter if you use the pendant, or are just choosing to not worry about what the charge status is, and just trust it, which sounds like a perfectly sound plan anyway, these things seem to be very proven.

Anyway...gonna move those distribution wires over this afternoon and DONE and DONE. Looking forward to checking my batts with a voltmeter and hydrometer and compare to the readings I took yesterday after they had been on the stock charger for 24 hours. The pendant right now is still showing they are in 'normal' mode, meaning still charging, which suggests to me that they were not fully charged by the stock unit.

Thanks again for all the advice and guidance.
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:03 PM   #82
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It might be in normal mode for a couple of days. Seems like it slowly tops the battery until it decides to float. Enjoy
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:10 PM   #83
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You might also consider crimping on a set of forked lugs to get uniform clamping with the load side hardware on the new DC board. Pat
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Old 04-22-2017, 07:45 AM   #84
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I installed mine yesterday on my 2016 FC 19' (same as the OP). There was one minor difference... The existing 110v AC black wire from the converter was not connected at the wire nut, it was spliced near the breaker with another wire that went to the wire nut. I had to remove the breaker to get to the splice. I cut the black wire from the parallax converter and put it back in the breaker (first removing the spliced wire) and then connected the 3 wires with the wire nut. The photo below shows the existing splice (pigtail??) that went to the breaker.
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Old 04-24-2017, 05:04 PM   #85
3rd one is the charm?
 
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Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
It might be in normal mode for a couple of days. Seems like it slowly tops the battery until it decides to float. Enjoy
Yep, I become obsessed with the blinking light

It took a couple days but did finally enter float mode.

Also, I have one of those cheap little digital voltmeters in my 12v accessory plug in the trailer, which I know aren't super accurate to measure battery voltage if not hooked to shore power. But connected to shore power, when I cycled through the PD4655 cycles manually, sure enough, the voltages were 14.6, 13.6, and 13.2 for the three stages. And now, floating at 13.2. Just as advertised.
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Old 04-24-2017, 05:29 PM   #86
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PD4655 Install with Pictures

My batteries were upgraded to AGM's when I took delivery of or '17 Classic. Purchased a PD 9270 including the pendant for $187 from BestConverter.com. Randy was extremely helpful. Removed the stock Parallax and made a little deck for the new one and it wired right up...perfect. Been in the coach for 5 weeks, haven't heard the cooling fan once and she's maintaining a perfect 13.2 float. Very happy so far. Click image for larger version

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Old 04-24-2017, 08:29 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by mojoe7009 View Post
My batteries were upgraded to AGM's when I took delivery of or '17 Classic. Purchased a PD 9270 including the pendant for $187 from BestConverter.com. Randy was extremely helpful. Removed the stock Parallax and made a little deck for the new one and it wired right up...perfect. Been in the coach for 5 weeks, haven't heard the cooling fan once and she's maintaining a perfect 13.2 float. Very happy so far. Attachment 284052
Thanks Mojoe. Nice work. That is the old style way of doing it but in the end, you still have a great 4 stage converter. The kits are easier to install for the novice but I've learned not to hold back a man on a mission
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:36 PM   #88
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Works for me. No panel replacement. I'm proud to be a simpleton!
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Old 04-26-2017, 08:53 AM   #89
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Mojoe7009. What did you mean when you said you made a little deck? Something for the converter to sit on? If so what exactly did you do?
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Old 04-26-2017, 06:59 PM   #90
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Mojoe7009. What did you mean when you said you made a little deck? Something for the converter to sit on? If so what exactly did you do?


Yes. Rather than screw it to the floor, which is entirely ok, I made a wood deck that mounted to the original housing from the old stock Parallax. If you look close at my picture you can see the wood deck. That keeps it above the trim at the bottom and I don't have new holes in my subfloor.
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Old 04-26-2017, 08:23 PM   #91
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Yes. Rather than screw it to the floor, which is entirely ok, I made a wood deck that mounted to the original housing from the old stock Parallax. If you look close at my picture you can see the wood deck. That keeps it above the trim at the bottom and I don't have new holes in my subfloor.
Not a bad idea if you don't want screw holes in the sub floor. For those following this thread about the 7355/8355 upgrades, it does not apply. Mojoe has the 5355 50 amp service power center which is a different procedure to install a 4 stage converter. Wanted to clarify for those that might think it is related to the thread topic. Nice job Mojoe
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Old 04-26-2017, 08:28 PM   #92
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Not a bad idea if you don't want screw holes in the sub floor. For those following this thread about the 7355/8355 upgrades, it does not apply. Mojoe has the 5355 50 amp service power center which is a different procedure to install a 4 stage converter. Wanted to clarify for those that might think it is related to the thread topic. Nice job Mojoe


Thanks!
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Old 04-27-2017, 02:41 PM   #93
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Thanks for sharing. I have the same electrical setup as Mojoe and want the multistage converter.
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Old 04-27-2017, 07:13 PM   #94
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Thanks for sharing. I have the same electrical setup as Mojoe and want the multistage converter.


Order from bestconverter.com. Great service, great pricing and you are sure you're getting a genuine Progressive Dynamics unit. Our Classics are pretty much plug and play since there is an outlet back behind the unit. I opted to go to the 70 amp but probably could have just stayed with the 60 and been just fine. But, as I said, it is working flawlessly and I am very happy with the unit.
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Old 05-02-2017, 10:43 AM   #95
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Thanks - the best step by step I've seen. Will this converter work with 2 Class 27 AGM batteries?
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Old 05-02-2017, 11:09 AM   #96
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Thanks - the best step by step I've seen. Will this converter work with 2 Class 27 AGM batteries?
Agree these guys did a great job. Absolutely with AGM or flooded batteries.
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Old 05-09-2017, 10:11 AM   #97
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I'm thinking about changing my 7355 to an Iota IQ4 and I noticed that the blue and white converter output wires on the 7355 are only #10. Is that because of their short length/run to the fuse panel? Would there be any benefit to wiring it with larger diameter output wires?
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:23 PM   #98
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I'm thinking about changing my 7355 to an Iota IQ4 and I noticed that the blue and white converter output wires on the 7355 are only #10. Is that because of their short length/run to the fuse panel? Would there be any benefit to wiring it with larger diameter output wires?
Hi Boog
Because of that short run of wire to the fuse board, you would not notice any difference in voltage. Waste of time in my opinion unless you just want to.
Using the Iota is fine but doesn't come in kit form and it's not a better converter than the 4655V that is designed to upgrade your 7355. You would need to go old school and gut your lower box to accept the Iota and build a pig tail since they don't come hard wired. Also, no pendant that you can control the charge wizard with if that is important to you. Good luck!
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Old 05-10-2017, 03:45 AM   #99
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Thanks Randy, I'm using an Iota IQ4 because I had it left over from a previous project - I bought the converter from you about 6-7 years ago. What gave me the idea to use it was mojoe 7009's post above about using a 5355 in his replacement. I just wanted to make sure that a short run of #10 wire out from the converter to the fuse distribution panel was OK. Thanks for your feedback.
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Old 05-10-2017, 05:41 AM   #100
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Randy:

I have the exact trailer MoJo has, and I am an electrical novice. The PD or the Boondocker if I am going to attempt to install on my own?

Thanks

Bud
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