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Old 07-31-2007, 10:58 PM   #1
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outlet box depth

I am adding a couple outlets in my trailer and am having a hard time finding outlet boxes that will fit flush on the inner skin face. Anyone know of a source to buy ones that are not too deep? The current ones have an inside depth of 1 3/4in.

Thanks, TB
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Old 08-01-2007, 05:57 AM   #2
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How bout this one

Lowe's Home
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Old 08-01-2007, 12:39 PM   #3
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RVs use an RV-specific outlet that is designed to fit into the 2" walls. They do not use wire nuts for connections but rather, have press-in friction fittings for the wires. They can take 3-14AWG wires or 2-12AWG wires. You simply cut the wires to length and then press the end (unstripped) into the blades of the receptical. The blades pierce the insulation and create the connection.

They should be available from any well stocked RV supply store. Let me know if you have trouble finding them.
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Old 08-01-2007, 04:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
RVs use an RV-specific outlet that is designed to fit into the 2" walls.
They should be available from any well stocked RV supply store. Let me know if you have trouble finding them.
Lewster,

Thanks for the info, I wondered about the wires not being fastended onto the screws now I know the why and how of it. The ones referred to above are not stocked in any Lowes around here. Still have not located any but didn't have time to check anymore today. I was pulling an old SOB out of a field.

If I don't locate anything tomorrow I will get back with you if I still can't find any.

Thanks, TB
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Old 08-01-2007, 04:52 PM   #5
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outlets...

Try this link RV PARTS OUTLET

The duplex outlets in our Airstream's are the same ones they use in mobile homes.
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Old 08-02-2007, 11:13 AM   #6
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Self Contained Wiring Devices

Lew, I hope you have better luck than I have had with theses boxes. The quick connect boxes that I have seen in the RV industry leave a lot to be desired. They are quicker to connect, (when they do), but the problems of poor connections outweigh the advantages.
The shallow bakelite boxes are still available from RV Dealers and are low in cost. They use a standard receptacle or switch. The size is 2-1/2" W x 3-1/4" H. Available in depths of either 1-3/4" or 1-1/2".
PS- tinbender is speaking Classic 1972 year model here
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Old 08-02-2007, 09:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverhobby
Lew, I hope you have better luck than I have had with theses boxes. The quick connect boxes that I have seen in the RV industry leave a lot to be desired. They are quicker to connect, (when they do), but the problems of poor connections outweigh the advantages.
The shallow bakelite boxes are still available from RV Dealers and are low in cost. They use a standard receptacle or switch. The size is 2-1/2" W x 3-1/4" H. Available in depths of either 1-3/4" or 1-1/2".
PS- tinbender is speaking Classic 1972 year model here
These box/outlets are not my personal favorites, but they are used in just about every RV I have ever worked on. If you think attaching the wires is hard, try to remove them when the OEMs pre-assemble them into the walls before the walls are mounted to the chassis and don't leave more than an inch or two of extra wire behind the box . Not a lot of fun!!!
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:24 PM   #8
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Galvanized

PO installed shallow galvanized boxes in mine. I never plugged in before realizing this ... started resto as soon as I got it home.

To me this seems like it would be a problem. Am I wrong?

The boxes are in good shape - were only in there for a few years. I was pulling all of the wire anyway and replacing. Should I replace these boxes with platic ones?
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Old 02-27-2008, 07:28 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWOverlander
PO installed shallow galvanized boxes in mine. I never plugged in before realizing this ... started resto as soon as I got it home.

To me this seems like it would be a problem. Am I wrong?

The boxes are in good shape - were only in there for a few years. I was pulling all of the wire anyway and replacing. Should I replace these boxes with platic ones?
NWO,

Don't know if the metal boxes will cause a problem........I have ever seen them used by any manufacturer......just plastic or bakelite. As long as you follow proper line discipline and grounding, you should be OK but I wonder if there will be any galvanic corrosion issues between the steel and the aluminum?
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Old 02-27-2008, 09:36 AM   #10
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So far..

So far, since whenever the PO installed these there has been no corrosion to speak of. The are all anchored to the beams with sheet metal screws as well. They did a good job putting them in, solid as can be and they come out flush with the walls.

I was thinking that I could probably not do any better with plastic boxes, so I was not going to replace if it was not an issue.

My worry was having something come loose. Would that make the AS one big 120v electric fence? Electrical novice here so not sure what would happen if a hot wire touched the galvanized box.

On the plus side, the box could not burn.... ??

I guess I am asking. Leave the galvanized in or replace with plastic?

Thanks all.
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:04 PM   #11
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That's the down side......if a hot lead works loose and hits the box, you then have a condition called 'hot skin' and you will get a nice shock every time you touch the trailer on any metal part with a foot on the ground...........you become the conduit for the current to reach ground and YOU WILL FEEL IT! It is also rather dangerous, so it should be avoided!!

You might want to run a few wraps of heavy electrical tape around each wire nut connection to enhance the mechanical bond there and assure that the wire nuts won't vibrate off............. .
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