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Old 03-04-2010, 12:20 PM   #1
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1969 27' Overlander
Tifton , Georgia
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Only 110 Power is ever needed

Hi, We purchased a 1969 International Land Yacht Overlander for a young lady who lost her home.Her husband passed away, and she has no job. We are trying to help her. We will never need battery power, only 110 power. Anyway our converter, a univolt is unrecognizable and doesn't work. What do we do to just be able to use all the wall reciptables for all the appliances.. We want to just pull out and get rid of the roach infested converter. Once it is set up it will never be moved again. Do we need to purchase a manuel. We are having to do a lot of work on this to make it liveable. Also, is the wire (110) safe in this year airstream? Thanks for any help you can offer.
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:32 PM   #2
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All the lights , fans , furnace blower etc run on 12 volts. So if you don't have a working battery /univolt you will need some kind of fairly stiff, 20 to 40 amp range 12 volt power source.
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:44 PM   #3
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Feel free to ask any and all questions here in lue of purchasing a manual. I am sure you will get reasonable answers.

Yes you will have to install a battery and more than likely a new converter. Look at the Progressive converters with the Inteli Wizard. That unit will greatly reduce common battery problems relating to extended use.

As for the 110 wiring the only sure way to check it is to turn the circuit breakers off and pull one of the receptacles out and check to see if it is in fact copper wiring.
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:25 PM   #4
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You don't really need the battery. But I would go to an RV deal and talk to them some converter/charges require them. You will need a converter (you may just be able to get this) to convert the 110 to 12v to run lights, fridge, furnace. Etc.

Once you have a new one in place it should all work fine...
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:29 PM   #5
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Suggest you consult Randy @ BestConverter - Converters, Inverters, Electrical Supplies, Electronics

He is very helpful
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:47 PM   #6
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The fridge in the 69 doesn't require 12 volts. the coverter works like a battery charger . It connects straight to the fuse box. It is connected also to the last 120 volt recepticle on the circuit. I removed mine and installed 230 watts of solar power.
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Old 03-04-2010, 02:01 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by arodriguez60 View Post
The fridge in the 69 doesn't require 12 volts. the coverter works like a battery charger . It connects straight to the fuse box. It is connected also to the last 120 volt recepticle on the circuit. I removed mine and installed 230 watts of solar power.

So what do your lights run off. Does your solar system have a converter to run lights.

The newer fridges need 12 v to run the boards for the controls... The older ones may not...
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Old 03-04-2010, 02:11 PM   #8
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1969 27' Overlander
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The refrigator came from walmart and plugs into a wall plug in, there is no furnace, we don't want interior 12volt lights we can use a lamp Nothing that origionally came with the camper works, in fact we have considered running a 110 seperate wire to all the wall plugins, because that is all we need. The only thing is that the wire will be seen at the top of the ceiling. I just perfer keeping the wire hid by using the wall recipitable wiring that was origionally installed .
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Old 03-04-2010, 03:01 PM   #9
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The solar system whitch produces approx 14 amps charges the 2 group 27 batteries which are connected to the fuse box. I have not had any problems with lack of power. It works great!
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickDavis View Post
All the lights , fans , furnace blower etc run on 12 volts. So if you don't have a working battery /univolt you will need some kind of fairly stiff, 20 to 40 amp range 12 volt power source.
Hi, my name is Rob, I'm new here in the forum and also new to Airstream trailers.

We bought a 1975, 31' Excella for permanent living, the trailer is always hooked up to a 220 volt outlet, in the trailer there is a 220v to110v converter that all works fine.



I want to take out the batteries, there is no univolt so I don't have to take that out, I want to replace this by a 12v power source but I want to make sure that it is powerful enough.
I tried to find out how many watts/amps it must be by putting all the watts/amps together of the appliances using 12v that are in the trailer, not an easy task I must say.

I've been reading a lot in the forum lately but did not find the answer to my question yet, maybe you have it, or someone else.

Thanks,
Rob.

BTW, I'm in the Netherlands..
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:38 PM   #11
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Traveler you do not need batteries or converter table lamps will work just fine.

Power comes into the coach via a 120VAC 30 amp RV cord . The plug is unique to RV's and not to be confused with 220VAC.
The power cable should be in the rear bumper storage area.

Inside the RV there is a breaker box holding 2, 3 or 4 20amp breakers the breakers are standard household type. Breaker box most likely in the bathroom closet.

If you have a power pole you can purchase the female side RV outlet at Home Depot main difference is the ground side is round the box it comes in will say for RV use.

Sewer connection will be another consideration if any distance you may have to use a masarator (sp) type connection.

There are no dumb question here so ask away.
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Old 03-16-2010, 10:39 AM   #12
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1969 27' Overlander
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Thanks garry

Your answer assures us that we are on the right track. We plan to install a house type breaker box, 200 amp, then connect different circuits to all of the now existing wall outletts. There are about 5. Maybe about 3 circuits, using 12 gage wire. As of now, nothing in this trailer works, every thing in here is shot. Heater, waterheater, pumps, and so on, so this is why we are wiring it strictly as a house. This will give us the necessary amps for A/C, refrigator on one circuit, , Lights, Computer, and water heater on circuit # 2, then Microwave, and TV on the third circuit. Hoping this arangement will lessen any over loads. The new 30 gal hot water heater will sit outside covered. The wire from the inside breaker box will plug into and outlet on the pole and can be disconnected if necessary. We are installing a regular house type john. doing away with the copper water tubing and using pvc. reworking the sewage for outside septic tank. Thanks again, you have been very helpful.
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:09 AM   #13
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I would be care full with the size of box you use. I would match the box to the Amps of the service, so you don't overload the service. What size wire is the service?
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Old 03-16-2010, 01:55 PM   #14
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1969 27' Overlander
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At one time it was service( pole with meter and 200 amp service pannel) to a doublewide mobile home that was reposessed, so we are putting the airstream here and using the same set up.The main wire will be wired into the service pannel on the iniside of the airstream. Since the airstream is metal, should there be concern of lightening?
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