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Old 07-07-2013, 08:26 PM   #1
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Ok, I'm lost... Help please!!

I have gone thru and changed all the bulbs, fuses , and broken or bare wires. I'm plugged into shore power but don't have any 12volt! Ugh!
The univolt inverter has been changed to the inteli power 9100 model pd9155. It's plugged in. what else do I check? There is a 3/16 solid copper ground running from the inverter. Not sure where it goes to. I'm assuming the frame!?!?

PS also there are no battery's hooked up to the system.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:33 PM   #2
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Post a picture of your set up please.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:46 PM   #3
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Put a voltage meter on the outputs for the converter and see if the converter itself is producing DC power or not. If not, make sure the 120v socket it's plugged into has power. If not, check the breakers, cycle each one off and then on and re-check the 120v socket.

If the 120v socket has power but the converter doesn't produce a bit more than 13v, check for fuses on the converter itself.

If the converter produces DC output, measure across your fuse block to make sure DC is available there.

I'm assuming you either don't have battery cables attached at the fuse block, or you made sure the positive cable is isolated to prevent a short before plugging in without a battery installed.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:55 PM   #4
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Also check to make sure you have a good ground. You can also ground out to the body if needed. The bare copper wire could broke at some point.
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:22 PM   #5
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Ill post some pics in the morning
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:45 AM   #6
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Ok my inverter is plugged in. How do I check to see if power is going out of the unit itself? Please explain it like I'm in grade school. I've never used a volt meter or even a test light.
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:07 AM   #7
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OK, first, to avoid confusion from someone who didn't read this thread from the beginning, or someone you might call from an RV repair place, the thing you're working with right now (PD9155) is a converter (or converter-charger) rather than an inverter.

Looking at a photo of it, I see that there are 2 positive and 2 negative outputs (with a red label above the positive, and a black label above the negative.) Do you have a DC voltage meter or a multimeter? If so, you want to set the meter for measuring DC, and if it's not an "auto ranging" type you want to select the setting for something like 0-20V (that will vary by brand, but you want to pick the lowest setting that has the top of the range at or above 15V.)

Being careful not to let the 2 probes touch (in case they have long exposed areas) touch one probe to one of the outputs with a black label, and the other to one of the outputs with a red label. You can either put the probes on the screw heads that tighten down on the cables, or into the opening where the cables go.

You should expect to see more than 13V while the converter is operating properly.
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:27 AM   #8
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Here are pics if the converter/charger. It only has one positive and one negative output
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:46 AM   #9
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Even simpler, only one to choose from on each side. I see now that even though I searched for photos of a PD9155, I ended up with a photo of a PD9160a (perhaps the current replacement model for the 9155?)

The rest of the instructions are the same, you simply have only one of each output rather than a pair of each.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:00 AM   #10
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I'm heading to get one now. I'm going to change out my 12v distribution fuse panel for a less complicated AR breaker setup. I'm posting a pic of current panel set up. Notice bottom left the power on white wire is missing. Could this be my problem with exterior lights? If so where can I pull this wire from?

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Old 07-08-2013, 11:10 AM   #11
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You're missing a fuse for one of the primary circuit negatives (the rightmost black cable.) Where does that cable go?
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:27 AM   #12
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The exterior lights are not powered by the converter. That power comes from the TV. Only the 12 volt devices within the trailer are wired to the converter, via the fuse panel.
If the UCord is wired to match the TV, the exterior lights should come on when you turn on the head lights. Marker and tail lights, that is. The brake and turn signals will flash when you turn on the emergency flashers.
The electric brakes and charge line are also wired thru the UCord as well as the common/ground from the TV.
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Old 07-08-2013, 01:05 PM   #13
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I have replaced all the fuses. And yes I know the TV supply's the current for those things. What I'm asking is where do I pull that white power on supply from? The panel shows white wire coming in the bottom of that amp fuse and gray wire out.
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:13 PM   #14
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I think a 12 volt battery needs to be in place to pass the 12 volt supply. I could be wrong. That happened once in 1977.
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:30 PM   #15
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It's for the distribution panel that converts 110v to 12v
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKB_SATX View Post
You're missing a fuse for one of the primary circuit negatives (the rightmost black cable.) Where does that cable go?
I replaced the missing or bad fuses, the black on the far right is a negative battery cable for 2nd battery
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKB_SATX View Post
Put a voltage meter on the outputs for the converter and see if the converter itself is producing DC power or not. If not, make sure the 120v socket it's plugged into has power. If not, check the breakers, cycle each one off and then on and re-check the 120v socket.

If the 120v socket has power but the converter doesn't produce a bit more than 13v, check for fuses on the converter itself.

If the converter produces DC output, measure across your fuse block to make sure DC is available there.

I'm assuming you either don't have battery cables attached at the fuse block, or you made sure the positive cable is isolated to prevent a short before plugging in without a battery installed.
This is what I get when I do the procedure that you explained.

This is the probes connected at the fuse block before the fuse


But if I connect on the lugs after the fuses I get 13.7

If I connect at the lugs on the converter I get a reading of 1.31 don't make any sense
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:39 AM   #18
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Anybody have any input? Need help figuring this out.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:03 AM   #19
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Tell us where the black and white wires from the converter connect to the fuse panel.
I don't think you are getting a good reading with your meter when it reads 1.31 volts.
Where are you reading the 13.7 volts? It must be coming from the converter. Since apparently you do not have a battery installed.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:39 AM   #20
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Ok I'm getting a solid 13.7v out of the converter and 13.7v across the fuse block. I have lights on my control panel above the stove. But nothing beyond that.
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