Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-28-2008, 11:49 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
Jephellis's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
Carbondale , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 24
Images: 48
Novice 12-volt question

Hola!
I have a 59 18'er, have no idea how to hook up (re-hook) the lighting to battery power? If I pull into a campground with power hook-up, no problem, but if boondocking and want to turn the lights on, how do I power lights? Is there a connection to my TV? My battery that will be powering my water pump (not installed yet)?

Gracias!
Jeph
__________________

__________________
Jephellis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2008, 06:40 AM   #2
Well Preserved

 
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,191
Your little trailer may not have a provision for an on-board battery. It will have no Univolt or converter, as that didn't come about until 1964. Most of the trailers of that time had a 2EE battery mounted in a cabinet under the front window.
__________________

__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2008, 06:43 AM   #3
4 Rivet Member
 
1971 29' Ambassador
Leonardtown , Maryland
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 262
Images: 3
Do you have a wiring diagram for the unit?

If not go on line and get a general one, All trailers are similar. A Battery in the trailer will run the 12 volt circuits in the trailer. It will be wired to a distribution panel where the power is share with lights and other accesories. The trailer should have a converter, so when you are on shore power it will charge your battery and opperate the 12 volt items.
If you use the TV to operate the trailer, you could drain the battery and not be able to start the TV.
This is short and very general but a simple diagram will help.

Good luck
dale
__________________
_________________

Rebee - WBCCI #1325
2002 Classic Ltd 30'
2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7 Cummins
Rebee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2008, 07:22 AM   #4
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,940
Images: 59
It's likely the lights were all run off a single #12 wire from the battery. Do your light fixtures have two lamps with separate switches? In my '59 Tradewind, each light fixture has a 12V side and a 120vac side.

Some trailers of that era had a separate charging line that connected the tow vehicle generator to the trailer battery. There was a twist lock plug on the lower front curb side for this purpose.

Inside there was a twin fuse block with two screw in fuses. One fuse was for the air compressor and the other ran the lights and the furnace. The battery could also be charged with a standard 12V automotive battery charger when hooked to 120vac power.
__________________
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2008, 08:22 AM   #5
Vintage Alum. Enthusiast
 
flyfshr's Avatar

 
1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: I currently do not own a 2nd Airstream
Posts: 4,319
Images: 40
12 Volt Wiring Diagrams

Jeph ~

Since you asked the question, I imagine your '59 may have been similar to mine as I didn't have a 12 volt battery or system on mine when I got it. I did alot of research and ended up wiring in an IntelliPower converter and added a Group 27 battery. Attached are a couple of diagrams showing their installation plus where I ran wires for all of the 12 volt I put in. I used the aluminum for the ground so only needed to run a single positive wire to each light or 12 volt plug plus the newer style fridge.

Good luck with your installation.

Brad
FF
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 12v Electrical.pdf (139.5 KB, 167 views)
File Type: pdf IntelliPowerWiring.pdf (439.1 KB, 158 views)
__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1

I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
flyfshr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2009, 11:14 PM   #6
1 Rivet Member
 
2008 19' Bambi
Charlottesville , Virginia
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 11
Greetings fellow ASrs... I have a 2008 Bambi that I live in, 5 days at a clip, twice a month, throughout the year. The 5 day stretch is primarily a boondock, though, in a pinch, I can tap into shore power to top off my batteries (with some hassle factor involved). I winterized the trailer back in October, and have been pondering how best to address my electrical needs ever since. Without plumbing, I'm occassionally stalked by flies, if you get the drift (no pun intended), and have a few ideas that I would like to throw out here to Airstreamland to try solve my problemos.
First off.... heat. Nice to have a nice warm Bambi after 12 hours of work. Calculated the amp hour draw on the furnace fan. Then there is the plumbing. Would love to enjoy the showers I had prior to late October, but the power and propane consumption to keep the plumbing alive is nuts. Looked at skirting the trailer... looked at solar panels. Thought about 2 new bats on the trailer, and 4 in the back of the tow vehicle, then linking them all together for the 5 days... just to keep the bloody plumbing alive. Lots of weight. Kind of a waste of energy and expense.
Starting to glaze over.
So here's my current plan: It is my understanding that the AS factory installed Parallax 7300 series converter will tend to boil off my batteries if left on shore power for too long. Did not know that. Not a a true 3 stage battery charger. That's bad.
Thought about replacing the Parallax with a Xantrex DAC converter/charger...but this sucker doesn't have a program to deal with AGMs, which I am considering, nor does it have a program to equalize flooded bats.... what's up with that?. So, I'm thinking that I will: (1) Leave the Parallax 7300 in place
(2) Install a Xantrex Truecharge 2 (with both equalizing and AGM programs), with battery temperature sensor
(3) Install a Xantrex Link 10 to keep track of everything
(4) Install a marine style battery switch to disconnect the batteries from the Parallax system and connect them to the Truecharge 2, when needed.

And this is the scary part... rig up a (protected) Zodi, on demand hot water shower system in the loo.... (that way I can leave my plumbing winterized and still get a hot shower....save for a bit of flow through the gray water tank while I have heat on in the AS).

Looking to replace the original marine hybrid bats with either two 6 v
AGM bats , or two 6 v deep cycle golf cart bats (like the Trojan 125)
with around 300 ampH.

....would love a bit of feedback...
__________________
Harper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2009, 08:22 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
silverleeper's Avatar
 
1967 22' Safari
1960 Caravel
Edmonds , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,499
Images: 8
Hi Jeph, Most 18footers where park models which means the trailer was meant to be plugged into 120v to have power to everything. If you have this light and it has two switches on it one side is 12v and the other is 120v. That would be your only 12v light source. From your pics I don't see a battery though. I like flyfshr had to wire for 12v. I went into the trailer at dusk and took a look to see were I would need light to have a fuctional trailer while boondocking. Power for frig and a 12v acc. plug if needed. Good luck
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	ac_4.jpg
Views:	78
Size:	46.8 KB
ID:	75350  
__________________
Lee

1973 F-250 4X4 390
1965 Chevy Suburban 454
AIR 6030
WBCCI 4258
TCT

silverleeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2009, 08:25 AM   #8
Rivet Master
 
silverleeper's Avatar
 
1967 22' Safari
1960 Caravel
Edmonds , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,499
Images: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harper View Post
Greetings fellow ASrs... I have a 2008 Bambi that I live in, 5 days at a clip, twice a month, throughout the year. The 5 day stretch is primarily a boondock, though, in a pinch, I can tap into shore power to top off my batteries (with some hassle factor involved). I winterized the trailer back in October, and have been pondering how best to address my electrical needs ever since. Without plumbing, I'm occassionally stalked by flies, if you get the drift (no pun intended), and have a few ideas that I would like to throw out here to Airstreamland to try solve my problemos.
First off.... heat. Nice to have a nice warm Bambi after 12 hours of work. Calculated the amp hour draw on the furnace fan. Then there is the plumbing. Would love to enjoy the showers I had prior to late October, but the power and propane consumption to keep the plumbing alive is nuts. Looked at skirting the trailer... looked at solar panels. Thought about 2 new bats on the trailer, and 4 in the back of the tow vehicle, then linking them all together for the 5 days... just to keep the bloody plumbing alive. Lots of weight. Kind of a waste of energy and expense.
Starting to glaze over.
So here's my current plan: It is my understanding that the AS factory installed Parallax 7300 series converter will tend to boil off my batteries if left on shore power for too long. Did not know that. Not a a true 3 stage battery charger. That's bad.
Thought about replacing the Parallax with a Xantrex DAC converter/charger...but this sucker doesn't have a program to deal with AGMs, which I am considering, nor does it have a program to equalize flooded bats.... what's up with that?. So, I'm thinking that I will: (1) Leave the Parallax 7300 in place
(2) Install a Xantrex Truecharge 2 (with both equalizing and AGM programs), with battery temperature sensor
(3) Install a Xantrex Link 10 to keep track of everything
(4) Install a marine style battery switch to disconnect the batteries from the Parallax system and connect them to the Truecharge 2, when needed.

And this is the scary part... rig up a (protected) Zodi, on demand hot water shower system in the loo.... (that way I can leave my plumbing winterized and still get a hot shower....save for a bit of flow through the gray water tank while I have heat on in the AS).

Looking to replace the original marine hybrid bats with either two 6 v
AGM bats , or two 6 v deep cycle golf cart bats (like the Trojan 125)
with around 300 ampH.

....would love a bit of feedback...
Hi Harper, You might what to start a thread with this post or move it to a different thread.
__________________
Lee

1973 F-250 4X4 390
1965 Chevy Suburban 454
AIR 6030
WBCCI 4258
TCT

silverleeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 09:48 AM   #9
1 Rivet Member
 
2008 19' Bambi
Charlottesville , Virginia
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 11
Good idea Lee...
Will start a new thread. Thanks
__________________

__________________
Harper is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
12 volt


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
12 volt question worked on maxr Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 5 02-06-2008 11:28 PM
12 volt question maxr Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 8 02-01-2008 01:50 PM
Novice logging in dougfur Sprinter and B-van Forum 1 09-01-2004 10:44 AM
Novice tow vehicle question Burbank3 Tow Vehicles 5 09-11-2003 01:21 PM
12 Volt Question jwaldin Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 11 02-03-2003 06:42 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.