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Old 02-16-2014, 02:58 PM   #1
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No power to inverter

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My WF-600T inverter had a couple of blown fuses so I removed it, replaced the fuses and now I don't have any 12v input to the inverter. When I removed the positive cable it touched the chassis ground wire and sparked.

I thought it went straight through to the batteries but there must be another fuse or breaker somewhere. I'm a newbie so not sure where to look. The 12v lines go into the wall, just behind the battery box.

Thanks
Rich
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:27 PM   #2
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I found a nest of wires, a bus, what looks like some kind of relay, etc. in the left front. There is an access panel under the couch with very limited room. I can see the inverter wires but it's such a tangle that I can't find a fuse or breaker.

If I could get the box that's just under the window, removed, I could have easy access. I 've taken out the screws on the top (4) and the arm that's on the right (2) but I don't see anything else to remove, yet that section won't come out. There is a box that's part of this configuration but there's no fasteners inside of it.

I feel so stupid for touching that wire, a rookie mistake. I should know better. I was so happy that I found those fuses inside the inverter then got careless and touched that hot wire. I'd give anything for that minute of my life to live over again.

Any help would be appreciated. It would be of benefit to know what I'm looking for; bayonet fuse, in-line fuse, breaker... how to take the couch off.... anything.

Thanks,
Rich
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:40 PM   #3
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You say no 12V to the inverter or is it no 120V out of the inverter.

Most inverters have resettable push button circuit breakers on the output side.

The fuses normally protect the input side for reverse polarity so I wonder if you had swapped out the battery or disconnected for any reason.

Other than that you must have a circuit breaker or fuse in line with the battery and it would probably be close to the battery or could be at the 12VDC fuse panel. Should be a fairly large red wire from the battery.
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:42 PM   #4
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Rich, there is a very substantial in-line fuse that you've blown. (They cost around $40, BTW). It is located behind a black plastic shield that's located in the box that you can't get to. The heavy positive battery wire goes from your battery to one side of the fuse. Then you have the fuse. On the other side you'll find the red wire that goes to the positive side of your inverter. How do I know this? Well, I replaced my 700 W inverter with a 2000 W model and inadvertently touched the positive to ground. (Accidents happen?) I traced the circuit and found the fuse. NOT easy to get to, and not cheap to replace. Barry
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:31 PM   #5
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My system uses a DC FA 200 Class T fuse that is available from a distributor of Samlex America products and can be seen on their website. There are a few different types available. I have not been able to buy from them direct.
BAB, did you have to go to thicker wire when you went from 700 to 2000 watts on your inverter? Jim
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:41 PM   #6
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Yup. Not hard to do once I got access to it. I did the rewire at the same time I did a solar install and put in two Lifeline AGM's.
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:51 PM   #7
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Unhappy Well rats!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BAB View Post
Rich, there is a very substantial in-line fuse that you've blown. (They cost around $40, BTW). It is located behind a black plastic shield that's located in the box that you can't get to. The heavy positive battery wire goes from your battery to one side of the fuse. Then you have the fuse. On the other side you'll find the red wire that goes to the positive side of your inverter. How do I know this? Well, I replaced my 700 W inverter with a 2000 W model and inadvertently touched the positive to ground. (Accidents happen?) I traced the circuit and found the fuse. NOT easy to get to, and not cheap to replace. Barry
Of course it's expensive . This is day 1 with our airstream (towed it home last night) and I feel so stupid for doing something like this. I was being careful (or so I thought) and that wire was stiff, fingers cold and it just takes a second.

Previous owner said she ran a vacuum on that circuit. I did a search and found that inverter has 2 internal 35 amp fuses. Sure enough, they were blown. I replaced the fuses and put it all together again and found no power coming in.

If I could get that storage box out it wouldn't be too bad. The wife is all over my case for taking everything apart on the first day. I'm just not having a good start on this adventure.

Thanks for the reply and information. I'll look for the box tomorrow, although I think I know what you're talking about. I have no clue as to how I can get to it without removing the storage box.

Rich
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:52 PM   #8
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No power to inverter

BAB,
Thank you. My system is put together with #4 awg wire so the capacity is limited. It originally had a 1500 w inverter but I changed it to 2000, but retained the smaller fuse to go with the original #4 awg wire. Hope it's ok. Jim
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:55 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by garry View Post
You say no 12V to the inverter or is it no 120V out of the inverter.

Most inverters have resettable push button circuit breakers on the output side.

The fuses normally protect the input side for reverse polarity so I wonder if you had swapped out the battery or disconnected for any reason.

Other than that you must have a circuit breaker or fuse in line with the battery and it would probably be close to the battery or could be at the 12VDC fuse panel. Should be a fairly large red wire from the battery.
Thanks for the reply Gary. It's the 12v line input. Input voltage was the first thing I checked. When disconnecting it I touched it to the ground wire. I'm REALLY sorry I did that. I knew I blew a fuse, just not where it is. I have my work cut out for me.

Rich
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:06 PM   #10
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BAB,
Thank you. My system is put together with #4 awg wire so the capacity is limited. It originally had a 1500 w inverter but I changed it to 2000, but retained the smaller fuse to go with the original #4 awg wire. Hope it's ok. Jim
Jim,

4AWG cable to a 2000 watt inverter…..really? IMHO, IT IS NOT OK! The Magnum manual specifies 2/0 cable for wire runs up to 5' between the battery and inverter, and 4/0 up to 10' runs. These are coupled thru a 300 amp class 'T' fuse, located no more than 18" from the batteries (per NEC).

2/0 is the MINIMUM cable size that I use, even with a 1000 watt inverter.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:37 PM   #11
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Guess it depends on the size of fuse installed. Hope they are sized to protect the wire.
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:05 PM   #12
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Richw46
My system uses a DC FA 200 Class T fuse that is available from a distributor of Samlex America products and can be seen on their website. There are a few different types available. I have not been able to buy from them direct.
BAB, did you have to go to thicker wire when you went from 700 to 2000 watts on your inverter? Jim
Thanks, Jim. I checked with the previous owner and he said he took the couch apart a while back, to have it recovered. He says it has to be taken apart box by box. I guess once I get everything out I'll have access to the fuse. I see donrowe.com web site stocks the one you referenced, for $35
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Old 02-17-2014, 05:31 AM   #13
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Jim,



4AWG cable to a 2000 watt inverter…..really? IMHO, IT IS NOT OK! The Magnum manual specifies 2/0 cable for wire runs up to 5' between the battery and inverter, and 4/0 up to 10' runs. These are coupled thru a 300 amp class 'T' fuse, located no more than 18" from the batteries (per NEC).



2/0 is the MINIMUM cable size that I use, even with a 1000 watt inverter.

Thanks Lewster. Is it correct to assume that this applies to all +& - wires on the battery side of the inverter, including the wires connecting the 4 batteries? Jim
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:05 AM   #14
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Is it correct to assume that this applies to all +& - wires on the battery side of the inverter, including the wires connecting the 4 batteries?
Current in equals current out. Same wire gauge throughout, unless you really want the smaller wires to get hot due to increased resistance.
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