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Old 09-18-2013, 03:15 PM   #1
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No 12 volt when unplugged

Have 12 volt when plugged in. Original converter. 1999 Excella 31'.
Interstate batteries, group 27, one year old.
Contacts have been cleaned and tightened.
I've been told the next step is to replace ground wires.
It's been checked twice by different service techs. Both times "fixed" with the cleaning of contacts.
Next step? Replacing ground wires doesn't sound right.
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:41 PM   #2
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If my thinking is correct. If you have 12 volt when you are plugged in then it would have to be a problem with the battery connection. I had a problem with my trailer that the battery was not charging through the converter. Was blown fuse inside the converter. Simple fix but two people had looked at it before I got the trailer and they would just use another charger. You might have a blown fuse or loose wire from the battery and the converter is supplying the 12 volts when plugged in. I do not think there is a problem with the ground or you would never have 12 volts. IMHO
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:44 AM   #3
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one fix- Loose wire or fuse.
Battery connection makes more sense to me.
I have had two experienced techs look at the issue. I would like to have the problem fixed. Right now, I need to be plugged in to hook up and run the jack stand!
Any more thoughts besides loose wire or fuse? I've understood these have been checked out.
Thank you for the reply.
Anita
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Old 09-19-2013, 12:07 PM   #4
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Anita,
We had the same symptoms as you have. It turns out our original 1999 converter was just "gone" and we had to replace it. No problems for two years since. I wish I knew how to check a converter to see if it no longer functions. The tech boys knew and now all is well.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:12 PM   #5
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I plan on getting a new converter anyway.
It looks like getting one from Best Converter. I know to get a multiple stage converter, and to put it on feet, off the floor. I'm leaning on getting the inteli-power, Dynamax, even thought posts on this board seem to prefer others.
As I've said, I had experienced techs look at the issue of why no 12 volt when unplugged. Neither one said the converter had quit. Though the converter also makes sense to me as a problem.
Thank you for the response.
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:49 PM   #6
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Here's the one I bought.

Iota 12 Volt 55 Amp IQ4 Battery Charger Power Supply | eBay

For your trailer you might need one with a higher amp rating.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw...at=0&_from=R40
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:24 PM   #7
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If you have 12 volts while plugged in and not when unplugged there is no problem with the convertor. The problem is with the batteries. The convertor is what is suppling voltage while you are plugged in.

First thing to check is the battery isolation switch. Is it in the closed position? If that is not the problem you need to get a volt meter and work your way from the output of the convertor, large cables leading to the batteries, while you are plugged in and see where you loose 12 volts. Something is open in the battery circuit.
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:45 PM   #8
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I agree with Howie.

If 12 volt appliances work when plugged in, the problem is not the convertor. It is most certainly be working, it makes 12 volts when it is plugged in.

When not plugged in, it does nothing and the batteries supply the electricity.

The problem is, at some point along the circuit, the batteries are not connected to the trailer wiring for some reason like a band wire, fuse, or an open or bad switch.

Or, the batteries are completely junk and simply cannot supply any current at all. Which is quite possible even with 1 year old batteries.


I would disconnect them and test with a multimeter to other device that can confirm 12 DC power is available at the battery posts.





Regards,

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Old 09-24-2013, 05:50 PM   #9
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I'm with HowiE. I too think the problem is with your batteries. Either your battery switch is in the store vs use position. If the switch is wrong and you are using the battery without recharging it they will crash. I would first put a meter on your battery anodes. If they are down you will see it immediately. You might also pull a battery and take it to a service station and have them load test it for you. Being an ex sailor I have to say I do NOT like the battery switch in the AS. I would much rather see a marine switch: off, # one, both, # two. Good luck.
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:02 PM   #10
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Batteries fried...most likely overcharged from an obsolete converter.

Bob
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:05 PM   #11
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My vote is also batteries. Last fall I had both batteries on our 4 month old unit changed under warranty because one was dead. A load test will quickly indicate whether our hunch is correct or not.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:16 PM   #12
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And the the correct answer is.. voltmeter.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:11 PM   #13
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The battery switch is on.
The batteries checked out okay, according to both service techs.
I went to Radio Shack to get a new battery for my voltmeter, and they did not have those batteries in stock! I don't have a voltmeter that reads without a battery.
I'm traveling, so I may stop by Les Schwab to have them recheck the batteries.
Thank you for the great advice. Any more ideas welcome.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:20 PM   #14
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There are only a few probable points of failure.
With AC unplugged the only source of power is the battery.
If the battery is putting out power, then the cable from the battery goes to the 12v fusebox.
Is there a fuse or fusable link between the battery and the fusebox? Test power at the fusebox connection from the battery.

(For a quickie you can get one of those screwdriver looking 12v testers from an auto parts store for less thatn $10. The come in handy.)

If you have power coming into the fusebox from the battery, do you have power on the other side of the fuses?

With a 12v light tester thingy you can pretty much see where the power is/is not.
Check on each side of the "points of failure"
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