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Old 06-18-2007, 06:25 PM   #15
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Ok, back again. Didnt help to change the fuses and charge the battery. Still no power on the 12-volt. Any more ideas?
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Tammy
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Old 06-18-2007, 06:53 PM   #16
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My 75 TW battery has a plug in the cable so that you can remove the battery without unhooking the cables from the battery. It is located inside the battery area and can cause the problem you discribe. Try disconnecting the cable and connecting it again. Sometimes the connection gets dirty / loose.

If that does not fix it, you will need to meter the voltage from the battery to the 12 volt dostibution panel. You can get a meter at Home Depot for under $20. Everyone should have at least one of these.
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:08 PM   #17
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I had a problem similar to this - turns out I had a loose connection at the 12-v block going from the batt to the battery isolator switch. If you feel the 12-volt connections, one or more may be very hot. Tighten the nut and reset the disconnect and you may get lucky.

Pat
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:09 PM   #18
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Thanks Richard. He tried unplugging and replugging. I guess its a trip to Lowes now! Will update shortly!!
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:42 PM   #19
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Ok, checked all the fuses and replaced the two that were bad. We bought this battery on 7 April and had assumed that it was not the problem. Been raining here and just now got out to check it, and it is dead. I believe it is shot as my charger will not charge it.

We had the camper plugged up here for quite some time since we got the new battery. Could it have been overcharged and ruined from being plugged up too long?

According to the manual, the univolt shuts down when the battery is fully charged????

I feel rather stupid for not checking the battery sooner!
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Old 06-20-2007, 11:55 PM   #20
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If your UniVolt is the original unit I would say yes. They can over cookthe battery. One sign of this would be if the cells are low on water.
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:23 AM   #21
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Actually, I never did let the battery run low on water. I usually check the water level every 2 weeks. I had the battery on the charger for about 3 hours, but still nothing!!
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Old 06-21-2007, 03:23 PM   #22
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It's only a few months old, take it back, get a new one! Also, if you are going to leave it plugged in for loooong periods of time, get a new convertor. One with 3 stage charging. If you use an old univolt for loooong periods of time, you see what can happen.
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Old 06-21-2007, 03:33 PM   #23
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Yes, we are going to take it back and get a new one. Another lesson learned!!

John
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Old 06-21-2007, 03:56 PM   #24
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John,Everyone has given some really great advise, and I am sure I have read several threads here on the old univolts frying batteries. While restoring the Tradewind the first thing to go was the univolt. Run a search on the forum on univolts and I think you will find most will say to disconnect the univolt once the battery is charged.
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Old 07-03-2007, 06:30 PM   #25
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No 12v power

I am in a similar situation. I have a new univolt that was installed last in my 78 Caravanner at JC along with 2 new Interstates. Fuses are fine but still no 12v. All is fine when I am plugged in but once I unplug, nothing. Is there anything I am missing?
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Old 07-03-2007, 07:27 PM   #26
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We have found out that it was the Univolt frying the battery. we have went through 2 before we figured it out though. Good thing they have warrenties,lol! Back to Wally World to trade it in!
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Old 07-03-2007, 08:15 PM   #27
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I got the other problem no 12volt when battery is disconected 110 works just fine but nothing as far as lights ect without battery????
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Old 07-03-2007, 08:36 PM   #28
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Exclamation Frying the Battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Threads
We have found out that it was the Univolt frying the battery. we have went through 2 before we figured it out though. Good thing they have warrenties,lol! Back to Wally World to trade it in!
Hi John and Tammy,

The univolt in my 67 boiled the battery one night. My Carbon Monoxide (CO) detector woke me in the middle of the night. My fridge was running on propane due to a corroded connection at the thermostat, and I at first thought that some strange wind had forced the exhaust back into the coach. After through ventilation dropped the CO levels to zero, I closed the coach. Alarm in 15 minutes! Point, a CO detector is vital, even if you have the propane shut off.

On another note,
Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Tammy, it could simply be a dirty battery cable end. The Univolt was supplying power to the 12 volt stuff while it was plugged in, and when you unplugged it, away went the power. The load of several lights caused the battery to lose connection. So, check the battery cable ends and connections to the battery before going crazy looking everywhere else.
Terry makes an excellent point. Not only could the battery cable be corroded at battery connection, it could be corroded anywhere. I had corrosion on the Bakelite fuse connector that required replacement of it and its associated wires.

Vaughan
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