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Old 07-03-2012, 05:34 PM   #71
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I proposes 40 amp because that is what the ats contacts are rated at. This is suggested on the premise that the ats is not faulty to begin with and to address an earlier comment that they did not want the ats to be an 80 dollar fuse.
I've been studying the specifications on the Parallax web site - http://www.parallaxpower.com/ATS301/...01%20REV_B.pdf

I read that this is a 30A switch, with a relay rated at 30A. I read under the "Wiring Instructions" that the load is 30A MAX.

It's certainly your right however, to advise people to put a 40A fuse in front of a 30A rated device! Good luck!
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:47 PM   #72
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Right now there is Zero protection. 30 amp 40amp breaker to allow momemtary protect internal appliances and electrical components.

Im not advising i
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:06 PM   #73
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Right now there is Zero protection. 30 amp 40amp breaker to allow momemtary protect internal appliances and electrical components.

Im not advising i
Zero protection? There is a 30A breaker on the load (behind the ATS). That means - - - if you draw in excess of 30A the breaker opens. When the breaker opens, zero current is flowing in the entire circuit. The entire circuit of course includes the ATS.

Based on the reports, this is what is happening:
1. Some value of current LESS THAN 30A is the operating load.
2. Since the load is less than 30A, the circuit breaker does not open.
3. The ATS switch, which is ahead of the breaker, and which is rated at 30A, suffers catastrophic failure when LESS THAN 30A is being passed through it.

I think there is only one conclusion to make!
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:16 PM   #74
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I meant to say zero protection in front of the ats. You are right, this topic is futile if the ats is not performing to spec which is evidenced by the folks describing their power issues.
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Old 07-04-2012, 03:15 AM   #75
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Installing a 40 amp fuse where a 30 amp fuse is stipulated seems to be inviting disaster. One might just use a penny (or an 8 gauge jumper cable) and hope for the best.

Having worked in electronics for many years, installing a larger fuse would seem to violate basic safety and design rules along with RV electrical codes; and it probably voids any remaining Airstream warranty. If one is unlucky enough to have an electrical fire or major appliances are damaged, one can only guess how a repair claim might be handled if Airstream or your insurance company were aware of this unauthorized modification.

However, this is just my opinion; and now I'll be quiet...
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Old 07-04-2012, 07:44 AM   #76
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Is there a different type of circuit breaker that could be used such as a quick response or maybe a 28A? Something that would move the break point from the ats to the circuit breaker panel while still maintaining a working range close to 30A.

Ron
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Old 07-04-2012, 07:58 AM   #77
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Is there a different type of circuit breaker that could be used such as a quick response or maybe a 28A? Something that would move the break point from the ats to the circuit breaker panel while still maintaining a working range close to 30A.

Ron
Ron,

You are severely de-rating the system to compensate for an inadequate ATS design. Airstream and/or Parallax have not tested the ATS under normal designed usage (the 30A breaker does not trip). It is the demonstrated weak link and there is no other way around it other than to replace it with a more robust product/design or as previously stated DO NOT USE the hot water in electric mode, only gas and run the fridge on gas only and use the air conditioning sparingly on low mode, do not use the microwave if the air conditioning is on and you will probably never have a problem. Oh and dont run any other electrical equipment in the trailer. Most camp sites often have a 20 amp circuit available in addition to the 30A which you could run a separate extension cord into the trailer to run other electrical appliances.
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:20 AM   #78
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I suppose if one was insistent to have this mostly useless "convenience" in their trailer, you could upgrade the ATS to a 50A model either from Parallax or another company like Surgeguard. They both make heavier versions.

However, using another "RV grade" box probably has no better MTBF than the original 30A model. A better solution would find one made by an industrial supplier like Eaton or Graybar. Downside is that it will be large and more expensive. For the tiny convenience this feature adds, it's hard to justify adding a component that can fail so easily.
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:33 AM   #79
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Careful about assumptions and conclusions with electrical systems. The ATS is probably faulty, but these things can fool you.

I remember a night (Johnston Atoll in the middle of the Pacific) when we were baffled blowing fuses every time we plugged power into our multi-million dollar premium fighter jet. The multi-meter showed no short, but it was powered by a small battery. Finally discovered a high resistance short in the power receptacle protection circuit that only shorted to ground when the higher voltage was applied. That solution (take out that protection circuit which has no purpose in flight, we are in the middle if nowhere) was only reached when we threw out the obvious.

This is a relatively new feature on Airstream. It seems to me we should not be guessing solutions, jigging up our own cures, adapting to 50 amp services. Airstream customer service is receptive to this sort of thing and will help you work out a proper solution. They have for me and others. At least give them a chance before thou start re-engineering your new trailer.

Most of us try to find the good in what we have, make the best of it. There are a handful here who pile onto every problem with incredible enthusiasm. Before you modify your Airstream on that advice, think about where its coming from. Especially if you are still under warranty.

doug k
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:40 AM   #80
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:44 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Careful about assumptions and conclusions with electrical systems. The ATS is probably faulty, but these things can fool you.

I remember a night (Johnston Atoll in the middle of the Pacific) when we were baffled blowing fuses every time we plugged power into our multi-million dollar premium fighter jet. The multi-meter showed no short, but it was powered by a small battery. Finally discovered a high resistance short in the power receptacle protection circuit that only shorted to ground when the higher voltage was applied. That solution (take out that protection circuit which has no purpose in flight, we are in the middle if nowhere) was only reached when we threw out the obvious.

This is a relatively new feature on Airstream. It seems to me we should not be guessing solutions, jigging up our own cures, adapting to 50 amp services. Airstream customer service is receptive to this sort of thing and will help you work out a proper solution. They have for me and others. At least give them a chance before thou start re-engineering your new trailer.

Most of us try to find the good in what we have, make the best of it. There are a handful here who pile onto every problem with incredible enthusiasm. Before you modify your Airstream on that advice, think about where its coming from. Especially if you are still under warranty.

doug k
I assume everyone here with an expensive trailer is an adult, don't you? Therefore, I assume adults know how to act in their own interests. I assume they are intelligent and know that posts on forums are personal opinions, not dictates, laws, or mandates. Don't you assume that too?

I further assume that adults know they are free to develop their own strategies in life, and that includes how to maintain their vehicles and RVs. I assume some will wait patiently for a manufacturer to understand their concerns and provide solutions, while others will take charge of their own destiny and act accordingly in their best interest. I assume some will find these things too difficult to deal with on their own, while others will investigate, learn, judge, decide, and act in their best interest. In short, everyone who is an adult here will find the solution that works best for their interests.

I would not disparage those who want to wait for their manufacturers to improve their products. Nor would I disparage those who have the savvy to learn a few new things, make judgments on their own, and take individual direct action to protect themselves and their families from spoiled vacations, or heaven forbid, catastrophic blowouts of new tires!

So to summarize and to be clear - when I speak here of taking direct individual action to remedy what I perceive as "problems" or "shortcomings" or even "defects" with my brand new trailer, I am doing it because it is in my best interest for me and my family - which I am obligated to protect. I do not assume that any other person takes (reads) my commentary and believes it is some kind of demand for them to do the same. That would be treating other adults as if they were children, or worse. That would be to assume they have no common sense, and need to be told what to do. That would be condescending. I don't do that. I always assume people buying and towing trailers are "adults" and I respect their individual intelligence to decide what actions are best for them. Don't you?
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:45 AM   #82
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Mean Time Between Failures = MTBF
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:48 PM   #83
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MTBOI = Make The Best Of It

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Old 07-04-2012, 12:56 PM   #84
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Hmmmm, things that make you want to go Hmmm
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