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Old 07-01-2012, 12:26 AM   #15
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Stan and Lynn: I sent a note to your gmail address. I bought my 25' FB in April; one week later I lost power and eventually determined it was the transfer switch.
Had the converter replaced. All good til today (Sat, 30th). Same problem while here at the International Rally in Sedalia. Fortunately, I'm now good at direct wiring. Will start the logistics hassle on Monday. I think it would be better if they had put in a manual cut-over switch...don

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Old 07-01-2012, 02:42 PM   #16
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We have a 2012 25FB as well with the same power problems. Please keep us updated and perhaps we can chat about it next week. We are planning a west coast tour and am thinking not at this point. I have no convidence in this trailer. Thanks, Howard
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Old 07-01-2012, 02:51 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by tchur4 View Post
We bought a brand new 2012 25' Eddie Bauer Airstream from Camper Clinic II in Buda TX. It's the worst purchase we have every made! Everything that can go wrong has. The worst part was being stuck in Utah with no air conditioning of any kind followed by no electricity at all. Thank goodness my husband is mechanical because he ended up having to remove the transfer switch and just tying the wires together. Airstream just kept telling us to take it to a dealer. Well, that would be nice but there is not one any where close to where we are staying. We've also encounter problems with refrigerator temperatures, missing rivets in the ceiling, and a leaking hose under kitchen sink. Since I was a little girl I always thought it would be so cool to own an Airstream. Not the case. Poor service-no help. Once you buy it they don't care!!! Pick another brand if you are looking to buy.
What a shame. Just pitiful, really. I have a lot of empathy for you. Unfortunately, you will soon discover that "complainers" are really frowned upon here. You will soon be visited by a host of people telling you that you are being "too negative" and "not accomplishing anything by complaining." The Airstream Priesthood just don't allow reality to intrude into their mythology.

I think your best strategy is to return the unit to the dealer's lot ASAP, and retain a lawyer that very day to write a letter of rescission to the dealer. I don't know if that will work, but I have seen it work in other similar situations. Lawyer first, everything else second.
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Old 07-01-2012, 03:11 PM   #18
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I hope this is not another AS problem on new units If so, it will be interesting to see how the factory handles it. If the transfer switches are bad or suspect then the factory could nip this in the bud and do a recall of sorts? Jim
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Old 07-01-2012, 04:25 PM   #19
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Don, I think there are reps from the factory in Sedalia this week. Last weekend I had stopped by the Bill Thomas (BTC) area, and one of salesmen said Shue would be there during the week. I thought I also saw a large cargo truck that looked like it may be a mobile repair shop. I don't have any maps, but the BTC guys are over by the Armory and Exhibit Hall. If parts are needed I'm sure they can get them rather quickly, hopefully before the end of the Rally.

Good Luck
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Old 07-01-2012, 04:28 PM   #20
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I have sort of a dumb question. Is the transfer switch part of the converter, or is it a stand alone device? I've not paid much attention to it, but with the recent issues people are having, I would like to be prepared.

Drew
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Old 07-01-2012, 07:06 PM   #21
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I whole heartedly agree with the comment above that this too is our worst purchase! Look up my other threads for details.

I had the 50 amp service working till just a while ago. Then bang it all shuts off without tripping a breaker. Based on the above discussions I would guess transfer switch as well. Is there an upgrade for the standard transfer switch? I am assuming this is a similar problem as with the other bottom of the line components.

Is there an actual schematic/wiring diagram available? Should I even bother taking it to the dealer or just start re-engineering/upgrading when I get back home?

I cannot express how disappointed we are in this Airstream what a joke of a 60k premium product.

We are just cutting our vacation short and heading back in the morning.
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Old 07-01-2012, 08:06 PM   #22
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We also have a 2012 Flying Cloud, luckily we have not had any problems. I would also like to know to find the Transfer Switch and how to bypass it if needed. Also what does it do?


Gary
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Old 07-01-2012, 08:19 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Collimare View Post
I am assuming this is a similar problem as with the other bottom of the line components.

Is there an actual schematic/wiring diagram available? Should I even bother taking it to the dealer or just start re-engineering/upgrading when I get back home?

I cannot express how disappointed we are in this Airstream what a joke of a 60k premium product.

We are just cutting our vacation short and heading back in the morning.
I've owned 2 new trailers in the past 12 months. My observation is this. RVs consist of a shell made by the manufacturer, and then hundreds of the cheapest, barely usable components, controls, electronics and appliances haphazardly installed.

I have a 2012 like you. But my draw was a bit better than yours, based on your posts. I've had a few problems which I fixed myself. My own strategy will be to do my own repairs and replacements with higher quality goods than are furnished by the maker. By all I read on here, the dealer service departments sounds like a real hit and miss proposition.

Something I'd like to see, or even get involved with, is a co-operative program by owners to identify the weakest of the components in the newer models, and find a proper replacement that would perform to the expectations of a "premium product." For instance, it would be nice to know what AirCon units would replace the crappy one, and where to get it, and how to install it. In other words an organization of some sort who's mission is "re-engineering the Airstream" to be the one new people think they are buying when they lay their $60 Gs down.

My tank indicator is utterly useless. My refer has a kludged fan tacked on to the outside vent area (very noisy too). My stereo (something looking like a car radio) is as close to useless as anything I've had in that department. Well, you get the idea.
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Old 07-01-2012, 09:40 PM   #24
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Yes Redwood' we get the idea alright.

Back to the subject of this thread, we also would have this transfer switch in our new trailer, as do many others. I would like to see followup on this problem so we know not only of the problem, but what the eventual outcome is. I am also wondering if there may have been a low-voltage condition at the campground (heavy A/C use) that these transfer switches are sensitive to, and may lead to their failure.

doug k
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Old 07-01-2012, 10:08 PM   #25
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Yes Redwood' we get the idea alright.

Back to the subject of this thread, we also would have this transfer switch in our new trailer, as do many others. I would like to see followup on this problem so we know not only of the problem, but what the eventual outcome is. I am also wondering if there may have been a low-voltage condition at the campground (heavy A/C use) that these transfer switches are sensitive to, and may lead to their failure.

doug k
Any switch which fails due to low line voltage is an inapropriate switch for this application. There is no magic or mystery to selecting components for power systems.
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:36 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by donabston View Post
Stan and Lynn: I sent a note to your gmail address. I bought my 25' FB in April; one week later I lost power and eventually determined it was the transfer switch.
Had the converter replaced. All good til today (Sat, 30th). Same problem while here at the International Rally in Sedalia. Fortunately, I'm now good at direct wiring. Will start the logistics hassle on Monday. I think it would be better if they had put in a manual cut-over switch...don

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Do you know if anyone has done this? A manual switch would be the most reliable possible. I've read about so many relay failures going manual might be a good defensive move.
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Old 07-02-2012, 12:19 AM   #27
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OK,

Please enlighten me here a bit, as I have not seen a new 25 like the ones having problems with 'transfer switches'. I do, however, consider RV electrical components (solar, inverters, converters, transfer switches, batteries) one of my areas of expertise and am wondering the following; WHAT IS AIRSTREAM USING A TRANSFER SWITCH FOR?

You generally see these when an RV has an on-board generator. The function of the automatic transfer switch is to prevent both shore power and generator power from being applied to the 120VAC circuit breakers simultaneously, which would not be a pretty site. They sense which voltage is present and allow only one source into the breakers at a time with the generator usually being the priority source. These devices are standard equipment on the larger diesel motor homes that I regularly service, but I have never seen one on a travel trailer UNLESS THERE IS AN ON-BOARD GENERATOR.

So please tell me where this transfer switch is located in the power supply system. Is it integrated into the converter/charger or is it a stand-alone unit? If a sole unit, what is the brand and model of this transfer switch? I regularly use these devices, and perhaps I can accede to REDWOODGUY'S request and suggest a better quality manufacturer for what might be another cheaply manufactured part from China, or whether you need the device at all.

THANKS for helping me understand this new dilemma.
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Old 07-02-2012, 01:43 AM   #28
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Baton Rouge , Louisiana
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My 2012 International 25' FB has two points of entry for shore power. One on the normal curb side of the trailer, and the other on the front, driver's side of the trailer. Just behind the propane bottles. The "inlets" are identical and will accept power from either generators or shore power. I was told that the front "inlet" was placed there as a convenience for generators in pickup beds.

The Auto Transfer Switch (ATS) is a safety item to keep you from introducing two separate power sources to the trailer systems. Great idea if it works properly. The ATS is inside a metal box that is located on the back of the converter (under bed in my case). To pull out the converter you have to remove the four front screws, and in my case, raise the bed and remove the wood cover over the converter. The cables are bulky and have to be manuevered. All power OFF, of course. When the converter is pulled out the ATS cover can be removed with one screw then pull up. The actual switch is the circuit board with the clear plastic-covered relay. Where this relay contacts the circuit board is the problem. With power on the blade contacts to the board arc, indicating poor soldering or design.

This area is where you do your bypassing of the ATS, and basically convert your
trailer to one inlet. If you work backward from the black and white leads to the main breaker you will see how to do it. My side "inlet" orange cable was labeled "M".

I am going to start working this problem with Airstream on Monday. The biggest hassle will be getting me and the part together somewhere in the lower 48. I do think a simple manual selector switch would have been a better option considering the movement the converter experiences. I'll keep everybody informed of my progress. Don't worry the bypass works great, but of course for this much money I want it to work as designed. Several minor items in my trailer to be corrected also.

Don
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