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Old 06-09-2009, 06:54 AM   #21
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I went home and took a look at the house fuse box and sure enough the box is only a 15 amp box. But I have another question, if I have it hooked up to the house (15 amp) & I'm only running the interior lights, should'nt the battery still last longer than a few (3) hrs? Or is the converter not recv. the correct amps to work properly?
Once again I am learning this stuff.
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:08 AM   #22
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If you are only running a few lights in the trailer, the 15 amp service to the converter should be more then enough. If you wanted to run the Air Conditioner the 15 amps would be a problem.

It sounds like you solved the problem of getting power from the battery to the lights and then ran out of battery. At this time I would suspect that your converter is not functioning. I would check the input (120 volts AC) to the converter and the output (+12 volts DC) at this time. The converter should supply +12 volts to the DC distribution panel. From there the voltage is sent to all the 12 volt circuits as well as the battery.
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:44 AM   #23
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I'll check that after work, gotta get a voltmeter. Let you know what I find.
Thank You
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:28 PM   #24
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DC fuses?

Perhaps the DC fuses are missing/toast?
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Check out #8 in the diagram: several 30A fuses are located under the DC cover of the converter itself.
These may not be supplied with the new unit...

There may also be a corresponding set of DC battery fuses on the DC distribution panel fed by the converter.

Cheers,
-jd.
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Old 06-09-2009, 09:15 PM   #25
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I see only 3 / 30 amp fuses w/ 1 bank empty. According to the manual it requires only 3 fuses, maybe I should put in 1 more?
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Old 09-15-2009, 09:45 AM   #26
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Sorry for the 3 month break but here goes.... problem solved, the unit ( new Xantrex) is working. The problem was a lack of 30amp power to the 'stream, guess my 20amp house line didn't have enough umph to get the converter to kick in & slow charge the battery. To test my theory I bought a 30amp gen. and BINGO! It works! now alli have to do is replace the old 30a agu fuse block with the newer ato style fuse block. Thanks to everyone who helped w/ suggestions & comments
Thank You,

next project: fixin' the water pump!@#%@!#!
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Old 09-15-2009, 01:17 PM   #27
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mikvw: I aint buying it. the only real difference between your shore connection and the gen is that the generator has no Earth ground. I am not saying your shore connection is okay, what I am saying is that there is something else wrong when you connect with your shore line besides the ampacity. If the new converter needed more amperage to operate, it would have blown fuses/operated circuit breakers between itself and the house service panel. If there is some kind of resistive fault between the converter and the grounding system of the trailer (and hence to the grounding system of the shore line: ie: the house) then perhaps the converter was not seeing enough voltage to operate correctly; whereas with the generator, there is no resistive fault because the trailer/generator combination is not earth grounded. I would continue checking out your wiring...
ol' bill the AS newbie
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Old 09-15-2009, 03:07 PM   #28
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Old 09-15-2009, 03:53 PM   #29
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I'll start from the back, at the plug & try to work my way forward, let the games begin! Thanks for for the buzz kill.........kidding, Iknew it was too easy to be true.
Could my breakers ( in the closet) not be grounded? I thought they were grounded to the cross members? Just thinking in type......
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Old 10-23-2009, 11:57 AM   #30
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Found out finally what the mystery problem was with my elec. system! It was 2 fold problem: a pinched wire in the front side wall & the original 50a AGU fuse holder was not making full contact on 1 fuse. This was definatley a big adventure. Fixed the pinched wire, now I need to replace the fuse block w/ a blade type & I'm off to finish the remodel. Time for a 12oz. curl!
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