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Old 02-19-2015, 05:56 PM   #1
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New Umbilical Cord Wiring

I need a bit of help- I am installing a new umbilical cord a 7way... I have all the wires ran into a junction box from there each wire goes on to the running/stops/turns etc. My question is (are):

10g- black from 7 way goes to batt+ ?
10ga. white 7 way goes to batt- ?

Does the green wire which is running lights connect to a + line into the 12v side of the PD4045?

Does the ground wire of the same running lights ( not using body as a ground) go to the neg terminal block which then feeds to the - batt.?

Same wiring for every other line?
Thanks for any help you can give.
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Old 02-19-2015, 06:21 PM   #2
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New Umbilical Cord Wiring

The white wire goes to the frame of the trailer. As does the negative side of the battery.
The green wire connects to the tail light circuit of the TV.
None of the exterior lights of your coach connect to the interior circuitry of the coach. With the exception of the light over the door and the scare light.
All tail, turn, brake, backup (if used) are powered and controlled by the TV. As well as the charge line and trailer brakes. There is also a common/ground wire connected between the trailer and TV.
There will be a total of 7 wires from the TV. If you have and use backup lights. Otherwise 6 wires.
White = common/ground
Black = charge line
Blue = electric brakes
Brown = right turn
Red = left turn
Green = tail/marker lights
????? = backup lights


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Old 02-19-2015, 06:33 PM   #3
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So the green wire goes to just the running light w/o hook up to batt.or converter),same with red wire and brown wire. The white from 7way goes to the frame and also a wire from neg batt. goes to the frame.

Also how do you fuse each line? Fuse block with each line fused?

Now then rather than the neg of each light going to the body , I want to run a ground, to many stories of neg ground to body shorts. Can all those wires go to neg ground block ( all other wires are tied to a neg block and then to neg battery)?

BTW Does the black charge line go to batt.?
Thanks
Barry
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Old 02-19-2015, 08:15 PM   #4
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New Umbilical Cord Wiring

Correct on the green, red, brown and white wires. Each of the circuits you mention is protected by a fuse in the TV.
Running separate grounds will not prevent the shorts you mention. Since virtually every DC. Device in the coach used the skin/frame as the return path. IMHO you are wasting wire, $$$ and time on this item.
In most cases the charge line is connected to the positive buss thru a large fuse 30 to 50 amp depending on the wire size. Since the positive buss provides power to the fuses it also provides a place to connect the converter and battery.


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Old 02-19-2015, 08:44 PM   #5
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My trailer is a 1976. This a copy of the 7 way plug schematic form my manual

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Old 02-19-2015, 09:15 PM   #6
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Split rock THANKS for posting the diagram. It is the same way my '74 is wired.
The modern TV's are not wired the same as back in the day.
The color code and pin out I mentioned is for the modern TV's.
Obviously there will be a point where the wire colors will not match between the TV and trailer. That point will be the "J" box in the trailer.
One should verify that each circuit wired functions as it is meant to do.


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Old 02-19-2015, 10:29 PM   #7
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If I can add this to the discussion, it may also help. The PO of our '79 had done some funky things with the wiring of the towing lights and univolt set up. Here is the wiring info we started with.
Airstream was wired---------------------- The Function----------------------------- Industry Standard
Red----------------------------------- Left turn/stop -------------------------------------Red
Green------------------------------ Tail light/clearance ----------------------------------Green
Brown -----------------------------Right turn/stop------------------------------------- Brown
Blue ----------------------------------Charge line ---------------------------------------Black
White ------------------------------------Ground ----------------------------------------White
Black---------------------------------- Backup lights -----------------------------------Yellow
Yellow------------------------------------- Brakes -----------------------------------------Blue


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The PO had taken out the junction box along with moving wires around. After trying to replace just the trailer socket, then the truck's socket end, finally ended up putting a whole new trailer 10ft wire. I then installed a new junction box inside the trailer. I also routed the wires through a new blade fuse box instead of the old glass fuse box.

The before and tracing down the new 7-way wire and junction box.

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Here is what I have currently set up. Although it is temperarily screwed down to a board until Iím done with the install of the new breaker-fuse box. Everything is running except the 12volt charge line. The white wire is attached to the trailer as a ground.

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On the A-frame, I put a new power jack on; A new breakaway switch; A project box to house the extra wiring and individual fuse for the jack. Finally the flexible conduit and new wire for the jack and breakaway.

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Old 02-20-2015, 10:19 AM   #8
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One simple test I do on problem trailer lights is to test the hot lead (usually the black wire) with a jumper light. I touch the lead with one light clip and touch the trailer frame with the other jumper wire clip (or probe). If it lights, that tells me I have power.

To re-establish the grounds I identify the ground, remove it, clean the contact point with a method that will not damage the trailer, and reinstall the ground. I use a wire brush on a Dremel tool a lot. My only assumption while repairing trailer wiring is to assume everything is wrong or broken.

With the clearance lights on my Airstream, I replaced all the fixtures with a two wire type light. I attached the hot wire by solder under heat shrink. I added a solder on eye end to the ground wire (usually white or green), and attached it under a new stainless steel attachment screw.

When I worked on the can type rear driving lights, I removed the fixtures, cleaned the lamp sockets with a round wire brush on a Dremel, removed and reattached all the ground wires, removed and replaced all the bulbs, tested each socket with the battery charger and new bulb, cleaned and brushed all the reflectors, replaced all the steel mounting screws with stainless steel screws, and reinstalled the fixtures with all new hand tightened lenses. (I never use a power screw driver on lens cover screws.)

I don't test the whole system until I've performed the above steps on all the lights.

When I rewired the trailer 7-way plug, the grounds were loose and held by wire nuts. The trailer body ground connection was corroded. I twisted all the ground wires together, added a new #10 wire lead, fluxed the twist and soldered the twist with my map gas torch. Then I soldered an eye connector to the new lead and screwed it to the body on a cleaned location with a stainless steel screw.



I diagrammed the 7-way lead wires, added a new fuse panel, and soldered all the connectors to the wires. I used a 7-way tester to wire the trailer 7-way plug. I used the 7-way tester to wire the umbilical cord removable end, and I used the 7-way tester to establish that the tow vehicle was wired correctly and all elements functioned.



A previous owner had removed the breakaway switch lead wires from the 7-way connection point, put wire nuts on both wires, and hid them behind the inside skin panel. I installed a new breakaway switch, and reattached the lead wires.

When I tested the Airstream trailer with the tow vehicle connected, I had the charge line and the backup light leads reversed in the removable cord end. I reversed those two leads in the cord end, and everything worked. My cord is reversible. My trailer is wired to a standard 7-way tow vehicle plug.

A cord that's not reversible tells me something's wrong. If everything's right, the cord has to be reversible.

A standard configuration is important to me because I tow other standard 7-way plug trailers. I have three other trailers, all wired with standard 7-way plugs. A standard configuration is also important to me because I want emergency towing services to be able to plug in and tow my trailers in case of an emergency or breakdown.

Will a miss-wired 7-way work? Sure . . . but why add an element of confusion to something so simple to get right? For me, It's easier to wire it right than to wire it wrong. Anybody can come behind me and diagnose all my wiring to a wiring diagram with no head scratching at all. I can tow my trailers with any tow vehicle with any standard 7-way cord.
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Old 02-20-2015, 03:00 PM   #9
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If you would like to use your running lights and clearance markers when parked, you can jumper the Black and Brown wires at 11 and 1 o'clock.
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Old 02-21-2015, 07:57 PM   #10
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Thanks to all for your comments... and esp. to Doug, I have it all wired now, and everything is working. One question, if your TV is covered by each line being fused, is it necessary to fuse each line again in the TT?
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Old 02-21-2015, 09:51 PM   #11
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No


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Old 05-31-2015, 05:30 PM   #12
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QQ...the white wire from the old "load" on my old univolt panel (blue panel w/ glass fuses) should be connected where on my new pd4045? batt neg?

same for the blue wire...batt pos?
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