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Old 07-20-2008, 08:11 PM   #15
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We solved the problem. We removed the GFCI and replaced with a regular 15 amp breaker. Converter works great.
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Old 07-20-2008, 08:32 PM   #16
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GFI are great when they work . I have found most fail when you need them . Get rid of the GFI and you will solve the problem. Even brand new ones can be bad.
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Old 07-20-2008, 09:40 PM   #17
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Not sure that was a good idea. If the GFI was suppling any of the plugs within 3 feet of any of the plumbing you have put your self at risk.

If that was the case consider putting the GFI back and running a separate circuit to the converter on a separate braker.
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Old 07-21-2008, 12:06 PM   #18
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I have not done anything yet, because there are three plugs in the living area of my AS, the middle plug, directly under the window, is on the GFCI, so i moved my power supply to one of the plugs not in the GFCI, working ok. Because the bathroom is on the GFCI, I don't want to replace it with a regular breaker, so I am going to see how difficult it is to run a new wire from one of the other living room plugs to the one nearest the power supply. I am also using a GFCI on my cable where it plugs into the supply for the AS, as additional protection, and it does not blow.
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Old 07-21-2008, 09:05 PM   #19
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Housebg, I couldn't tell from the discussion if you are plugging the power supply/converter into a GFI outlet or a circuit fed by a GFI breaker. That said I don't understand why you wouldn't just plug the converter into a regular outlet, i.e. no GFI. The GFI is designed to protect the user from shock in areas that might be wet where the user might inadvertently touch a water pipe, faucet, spilled water, etc. The GFI protects the user from electrocution. I don't think a power supply needs a GFI to operate properly nor would the power supply link its DC output circuits in such a fashion that a shock potential to a user of the 12 volt lights and appliances would exist.
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Old 07-22-2008, 08:33 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by duo_77340 View Post
We just had a new converter installed in our 77 Argosy and are having the exact same problem. The converter works fine on all outlets except the one that trips the 15 amp GFCI breaker.

I removed the 15 amp GFCI and had a look at it, but I didn't see a way to disconnect the wires from the breaker. Does the breaker have to be taken apart to disconnect the wires?
I am sure how I can say this and make it clear other than there is no reason for a power supply to be on a GFI circuit. In fact as I mentioned before there are reasons not to have the power supply on a GFI circuit.

Some lawyer working for Airstream that was taught in school that electricity was BAD made the discussion requiring them to install the power supply that way. The world was much better of when engineers not social scientists and lawyers could design things.

As far as the power supply working on one battery and not on two the increased load on the power supply has most likely caused the ground current that causes the GFI to trip to go beyond the trip point.

Sorry if I offended any social scientists.
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Old 07-27-2008, 02:07 PM   #21
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'83 310 with similar problem

Our icemaker, fridge, outside power outlet and converter are on that 15A GFCI.

Until I can put the converter on its own circuit, I have to run the coach engine to charge the coach batteries to a point where the converter doesn't trip the GFCI any more.

I think I might still want to replace the outside outlets with GFCI outlets if I were to replace the GFCI breaker...
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Old 07-27-2008, 02:13 PM   #22
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Our icemaker, fridge, outside power outlet and converter are on that 15A GFCI.
.
What powers the ice maker? AC or DC?
What do you have plugged in the outside outlet when the GFI pops?

The charge on the coach batteries should have no effect on the GFI popping
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Old 07-29-2008, 09:17 PM   #23
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Quote:
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What powers the ice maker? AC or DC?
What do you have plugged in the outside outlet when the GFI pops?

The charge on the coach batteries should have no effect on the GFI popping
With nothing but the converter "on" when I connect the land line or start the generator, the GFCI pops--IF the coach batteries are down a bit.

So, if I run the engine to charge the coach batteries some from the engine alternator, then I can connect the AC and the GFCI doesn't pop.

So my understanding is that the immediate draw by the converter is related to the degree to which the batteries are down...

This was not an issue with the old original Univolt, it started to occur when installed the new converter.
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Old 07-29-2008, 11:10 PM   #24
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With nothing but the converter "on" when I connect the land line or start the generator, the GFCI pops--IF the coach batteries are down a bit.

So, if I run the engine to charge the coach batteries some from the engine alternator, then I can connect the AC and the GFCI doesn't pop.

So my understanding is that the immediate draw by the converter is related to the degree to which the batteries are down...

This was not an issue with the old original Univolt, it started to occur when installed the new converter.
If the GFI breaker is popping when the batteries are low but not when they are fully charged then the problem may be that the breaker is weak. What is the current demand in amps or watts for the new converter vs the old Univolt? The converter will pull more current on the AC side when it tries to deliver a higher charge current to the batteries.

Secondly, can you duplicate the problem when plugged into shore power with the batteries out of the circuit (throw the disconnect switch or disconnect the batteries) and turn on a bunch of appliances and lights that use 12 volts? If you can load up enough demand and it pops the breaker it's likely weak.
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Old 08-09-2008, 04:34 PM   #25
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Just updating you on my GFCI breaker with new power supply. I replaced the GFCI with a new one and all is working ok. Sometimes the breakers are no longer working correctly after 27 years.
I agree with prior posts, do not replace with non GFCI breaker, there is a good reason for them, better to put power supply on another outlet, and keep your AS safe for you and family with GFCI in place.
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Old 08-09-2008, 04:52 PM   #26
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GFCI update

I also am using a GFCI at my AS power plug, where it plugs into the 30 amps shore power. It pays to be safe in an all metal home.
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Old 08-30-2008, 09:12 AM   #27
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A New GFCI Fixed Mine

My GFCI had been tripping if I plugged in the shore power or ran the gen set after the batteries had drained any significant amount.

Yesterday I installed a new (20 amp) GFCI from Ace Hardware and tested by boondocking all afternoon with all the lights on in the coach. Then when I plugged in shore power the converter came on without tripping the GFCI.

I had been reluctant to believe it was the breaker because I had previously used a toaster oven on the same circuit without any problems, but there you are.

Thanks.
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Old 08-30-2008, 09:37 AM   #28
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The GFCI seems to take a beating; I've replaced mine about three times over the years.
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