Hopefully I can figure this out with some help from some ' experts ' here on the forum? I have had problems in the past with drained batteries when I first bought the Airstream. First thing I did was to buy two new marine deep cycle batteries and after hooking them up with my old Univolt in place, I either boiled them ( as I have found out is a common problem with the older Univolts) or they were damaged electrically some other way. I couldnt figure this out, as my new 3 stage battery charger told me I had a " shorted cell" in the batteries. At first, I assumed it to be cheap batteries I had bought ( Sams club). I knew the Univolt was old, and it didnt put out the required volts like it should, so I pulled it out. ( I actually am awaiting delivery of a WFCO 3 stage converter ).
So, I realized I may have some sort of short somewhere. I have just checked all of my fuses in the power dist. panel. I did the check using a test light ( remove the fuse, connect the circut with the testlight ). Nothing unusual there. I had placed a new, fully charged battery on the batt. cables for the test. my battery tested with with the multi-meter at about 12.9 volts prior to starting. after I was done( maybe 30 minutes) with NO draw- everything turned off in the trailer- no lights, water pump, etc.) I disconnected the battery outside at the batt. box. and it tested at 12.29 volts. A healthy system wouldn't draw that much power that fast, with NOTHING switched on, right? So, obviously, something is seriously drawing power from the battery/s, and I could'nt find the circut in the main fuse panel.
Does anyone know of another possible source of my mystery power drain? Are there any other ( factory) fuses/ circuts that wouldnt be located at the fuse dist. panel? Any suggestions would be helpful,
Thanks.
BTW, my trailer is a 1979 Excella 500, 31 ft. in pretty good shape. The two previous owners took care of it, with the exception of it being caught in a minor flood, in which water rose up and flooded the interior by about 1 inch enough to ruin the surface flooring/ carpet.. According to the woman I bought it from, it had water on the floor for about a day. I examined the subfloor, and it is sound. I ripped out the old carpeting and parque flooring, and replaced it with wood laminate flooring throughout. The previous owner did not mention any electrical problem, other than with the old univolt, which is gone now.
Well, this is not an MG, where drains of this kind are legendary, but I'd get a little DC ammeter and start testing all circuits with all power-draining devices turned off. Sooner or later, you'll find a line leading somewhere with power surging through it.
Lynn
Sounds like the leak is upstream of the fuse/distribution panel. Double check by putting the test light at the battery terminal and confirm current draw(or use an ammeter if you have access). The problem is probably a modification by one of the P.O's somewhere. Could be fun to find. Think about non-factory items, etc..
Check behind the fuse box for a wire/circuit hooked in upstream of the fuses., i.e. unfused.
__________________
"Not all who are lost are wondering" say Bill & Heidi
'78 Excella 500,"The Silver Pullit". vacuum over hydraulic disc brakes, center bath, rear twin. '67 Travelall 1200 B 4X4 WBCCI 3737
I do not have much experience with trailers, but I just thought that it may be a leak at the emergency brake controller.
The other thing to check is that where all your wires go into or out of the trailer that there is no wearing through of the wires and going to ground.
You could put a cut-off switch on the Batteries if you wanted to be sure it would not drain while you are storing it.
One other thing to think about is did the batteries just come off charge when you tested them, you could have a low performing cell that drops voltage quickly, normally they say to wait for 5 hours or overnight to test if a battery is good after charging.
Also you can remove the cables from both before and after any tests and compare voltages as they should be basicaly equal, but give them a few hours to rest first.
Also did you check the electrolyte levels? if one cell is low it will affect voltage.
Cheers, Peace and Happy Trails!
Yes,Tom, I stand corrected! Those were Great pieces of advice! Well, the good news is: I have narrowed it down to being a short/drain to the after-market electric brake wiring on the trailer! My power jack is OK, after I disconnected it from where it was spliced into the ( light blue ) trailer brake wire located underneath the tongue of the trailer. Thats as far as I could get this AM. Thanks for the help so far!
Now, does someone out there in the forum have a common-type schematic of an Airstream electric brake wiring system to share? I'm really not that familiarwith them( trailer brakes). I plan to trace the wiring back until I find the shorted spot.
Yes,Tom, I stand corrected! Those were Great pieces of advice! Well, the good news is: I have narrowed it down to being a short/drain to the after-market electric brake wiring on the trailer! My power jack is OK, after I disconnected it from where it was spliced into the ( light blue ) trailer brake wire located underneath the tongue of the trailer. Thats as far as I could get this AM. Thanks for the help so far!
Now, does someone out there in the forum have a common-type schematic of an Airstream electric brake wiring system to share? I'm really not that familiarwith them( trailer brakes). I plan to trace the wiring back until I find the shorted spot.
Hmmm. I dont know. Ill have to look. First Ill have to find out what a Breakaway switch lookes like I do know my problem is in my electric brake system, om the trailer.
The breakaway switch is on the tongue.It is a safety device. It has a pin with a cable that can attach to the TV bumper. If the trailer becomes disconnected from the TV, the cable will pull the pin out of the switch: this should activate the brake using the trailer battery.
The most likely culprit IS the switch. It may be corroded inside and conducting current. If the pin isn't installed that will be the answer right there. Looks like you're nearly there.
P.S. Something that we should have mentioned earlier. A good trouble shooting strategy is to pick a quiet time and have someone walk around the trailer while you (or vice-versa) alternately connect and disconnect the battery listening for a sound like a "click" or a "hum", or a flash, as the guilty party goes on and off.
__________________
"Not all who are lost are wondering" say Bill & Heidi
'78 Excella 500,"The Silver Pullit". vacuum over hydraulic disc brakes, center bath, rear twin. '67 Travelall 1200 B 4X4 WBCCI 3737
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