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Old 08-14-2016, 10:23 AM   #21
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I've read and reread this and the others Idroba listed and I'm not sure with 2X12 batteries do I remove just the one negative terminal or can I remove the jumpers instead? My original OEM Lifeline's 8 year old batteries finally packed it in I believe. Had them on a trickle charger and yesterday they read 10.8. Need to buy new but think I'll go Interstate wet cells until full retirement in a couple more years when I plan on going the 6 V route.

Thanks Idroba for all the great information.

Mike
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:34 PM   #22
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Everyone, I thought I had referenced it in my post that included this thread but looking back I forgot to reference.

Unfortunately IRDOBA passed away last spring. He was very generous with his time and advice. This thread is just one of many that I have saved for future reference.

Rocket53 you may want to post your questions to the thread below.

Here is a recent thread re battery connections and the link to the discussion started on another thread.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ed-154343.html

I'd have to re-read IRDOBA's and Lewster's threads or maybe others to find the exact reference but based on that advice as I remember it I have been disconnecting the neg terminal and have had no parasitic draw problems. OTRA15 did ask the question (in the above thread #11 & 28) on disconnecting the interconnect on the neg side but I don't believe ever got an answer.

I have some work at the AS this week and have that question on my list. Certainly the nut for the interconnect (jumper) is much easier than disconnecting the post connection.

Bob
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:41 PM   #23
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If your battery connections are factory stock, the should be wired with the positive load to battery 1 and load negative to battery 2.

If that is the case, simply remove one connection from the parallel cable between the negative battery posts and that should act as a complete disconnect, as it will isolate the two batteries from each other.


Lew Farber
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Old 08-14-2016, 02:15 PM   #24
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Lew...Perfect and as always a huge thanks
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Old 08-16-2016, 09:30 AM   #25
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You guys beat me to it.

I just spoke with customer service at Interstate Battery and they confirmed the above: If you have 2 batteries and the two jumpers (red and black) going from one battery to the other, you can just disconnect the Black one and that will eliminate any phantom draw. It will not stop the batteries from slowly draining if stored a month or two. In that case use a trickle charger.
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Old 08-18-2016, 10:08 AM   #26
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You guys beat me to it.

I just spoke with customer service at Interstate Battery and they confirmed the above: If you have 2 batteries and the two jumpers (red and black) going from one battery to the other, you can just disconnect the Black one and that will eliminate any phantom draw. It will not stop the batteries from slowly draining if stored a month or two. In that case use a trickle charger.
You have hit on one of the major disadvantages of liquid cells vs. AGM batteries; namely, their internal resistance and the associated self-discharge rates.

With their much higher internal resistance values, liquid lead acid batteries have a 12% (approx.) self-discharge rate. In contrast, AGMs like Lifelines have around a 3% self-discharge rate and will far outlast liquid cells when in fully isolated long term storage.

Lithiums are even lower in their self-discharge rate, and will easily last up to a year without boost charging when isolated.
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Old 08-18-2016, 04:38 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster View Post
If your battery connections are factory stock, the should be wired with the positive load to battery 1 and load negative to battery 2.

If that is the case, simply remove one connection from the parallel cable between the negative battery posts and that should act as a complete disconnect, as it will isolate the two batteries from each other.


Lew Farber
Lew, did you have a brain fart? Removing the black jumper will not act as a complete disconnect.
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Old 08-18-2016, 04:45 PM   #28
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But removing both the red and black jumper would do so? [one end of each jumper that is]

Thanks
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Old 08-18-2016, 04:57 PM   #29
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Correct, as the late Idroba pointed out, removing both parallel jumpers will effectively disconnect both batteries.
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Old 08-18-2016, 06:43 PM   #30
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I just installed a quick disconnect switch between the ground load wire and the second battery, when I turn to disconnect position there is no power in the trailer


Gary
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Old 08-18-2016, 07:21 PM   #31
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I just installed a quick disconnect switch between the ground load wire and the second battery, when I turn to disconnect position there is no power in the trailer


Gary
Yes, that will work as well!
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Old 08-19-2016, 10:17 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Castaway View Post
I just installed a quick disconnect switch between the ground load wire and the second battery, when I turn to disconnect position there is no power in the trailer


Gary
Hey Gary any chance you can post a snapshot?
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Old 08-19-2016, 03:40 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by lewster View Post
If your battery connections are factory stock, the should be wired with the positive load to battery 1 and load negative to battery 2.

If that is the case, simply remove one connection from the parallel cable between the negative battery posts and that should act as a complete disconnect, as it will isolate the two batteries from each other.


Lew Farber
SORRY GANG!!!! (Thanks Alan for the heads-up)

Wasn't thinking properly!! Must be the smoke here in SO Cal (where I am presently)

BOTH PARALLEL JUMPERS...... OF COURSE!!!!
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Old 08-19-2016, 05:15 PM   #34
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More phantom load information

Lew,

Welcome to smoky SoCal.

I can't even get to my AS right now...I'm at the Riverside end of the 15, and the AS is up by Victorville.

Son, wife, and grandkids managed to sneak through to Ft. Irwin yesterday. It's a smoky mess up there.


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Old 08-19-2016, 07:06 PM   #35
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Old 08-19-2016, 10:49 PM   #36
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Perfect thanks Castaway for the pic and Alano and Lewster for the "both parallel jumpers" confirmation.

Bob
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