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Old 03-09-2012, 07:30 AM   #15
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1981 31' Excella II
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As the others have said, everything should work as long as you put 12V back on the system.

Basic electronics here. You can't measure current directly with a standard volt meter. You can measure voltage. To measure current you need a resistor (shunt). The amp meter is really reading the voltage drop across a calibrated resistor or shunt. I=V/R so if your max current is 100A then and your voltmeter is say .1V full scale reading then you need a .001 ohm resistor across the terminals on your amp meter. The shunt has to be able to handle 100A load without melting. 100A across a .001 ohm resistor is going to produce .1W of waste heat.

Perry
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:12 PM   #16
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Trimetric monitor question to Bart

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Originally Posted by barts View Post
If you're replacing gages, shunt, etc. I can whole-heartedly recommend a TriMetric Battery Monitor. It not only measures voltage (one or two batteries) and current, it also integrates the current with respect to time to generate a very accurate estimate of the amount of charge currently in the battery. I find this very handy when boondocking.

Easy to install, easy to setup and easy to use. I have the 2025RV.

- Bart
Thanks for your response! a few questions.I am in the process of a complete redo of the land yacht. As you have read I am into the electrical part. I have the Progressive Dynamics 45amp converter installed , have run the 12o circuits.

My concern was monitoring the two batteries, since I plan on adding an additional battery. Did you add a reset disconnect on each battery, so if one failed you could isolate it and keep on using the one good one?

Has the addition of the TriMetric Battery monitor been an expense you found worth the effort and $ ?

I see where Zep pulled the old control panel and made up his own set up. I don't ( at this point) care as long as the level indicators work. So all the tank indicators should work off one of the 12v circuits?

The red and back wire on the shunt of the Univolt ran to the ammeter. The gray wire did what , just indicate that the battery power was on? What did you do with it?

If no shunt is used the battery GD (black wire) and the Trailer GD ( white wire)would be routed to the Converter 12v ground post, or just wired together?
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batt View Post
Thanks for your response! a few questions.I am in the process of a complete redo of the land yacht. As you have read I am into the electrical part. I have the Progressive Dynamics 45amp converter installed , have run the 12o circuits.

My concern was monitoring the two batteries, since I plan on adding an additional battery. Did you add a reset disconnect on each battery, so if one failed you could isolate it and keep on using the one good one?

Has the addition of the TriMetric Battery monitor been an expense you found worth the effort and $ ?

I see where Zep pulled the old control panel and made up his own set up. I don't ( at this point) care as long as the level indicators work. So all the tank indicators should work off one of the 12v circuits?

The red and back wire on the shunt of the Univolt ran to the ammeter. The gray wire did what , just indicate that the battery power was on? What did you do with it?

If no shunt is used the battery GD (black wire) and the Trailer GD ( white wire)would be routed to the Converter 12v ground post, or just wired together?
You may find that the 45 amp converter, won't be quite enough.

That's why Airstream, many years ago, came up with 55 amps as being ideal.

Andy
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:45 PM   #18
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If you want to know more about shunts as they relate to what the AS shunt is there for, have a look at this page, look down to "Use in current measuring".
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batt View Post
...
1. The red and back wire on the shunt of the Univolt ran to the ammeter. The gray wire did what , just indicate that the battery power was on? What did you do with it?

2. If no shunt is used the battery GD (black wire) and the Trailer GD ( white wire)would be routed to the Converter 12v ground post, or just wired together?
1. The power-on wire doesn't work with the new converters. The best way to restore its function is to get one of the small wall-plug 12V power supplies and let it feed the power on light. Otherwise it's just a dead wire.

2. If you don't have a shunt, just disconnect the wires.

Zep
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:32 AM   #20
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The black and white wires from the old shunt need to be connected together otherwise you will have an open circuit on the ground/common side. You will have no battery power and you will not charge the battery from the converter.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:43 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batt View Post
Thanks for your response! a few questions.I am in the process of a complete redo of the land yacht. As you have read I am into the electrical part. I have the Progressive Dynamics 45amp converter installed , have run the 12o circuits.

My concern was monitoring the two batteries, since I plan on adding an additional battery. Did you add a reset disconnect on each battery, so if one failed you could isolate it and keep on using the one good one?

Has the addition of the TriMetric Battery monitor been an expense you found worth the effort and $ ?

I see where Zep pulled the old control panel and made up his own set up. I don't ( at this point) care as long as the level indicators work. So all the tank indicators should work off one of the 12v circuits?

The red and back wire on the shunt of the Univolt ran to the ammeter. The gray wire did what , just indicate that the battery power was on? What did you do with it?

If no shunt is used the battery GD (black wire) and the Trailer GD ( white wire)would be routed to the Converter 12v ground post, or just wired together?
The Tin Pickle has two group 27 batteries, which I hardwired together in the battery box. My experience is that by the time I notice battery failure, both are dead.

Both the ammeter and voltmeter in the Tin Pickle's "Airstream Central Control" panel are non-functional; the Trimetric has allowed me to keep tabs on loads, battery condition, etc. I used the bigger shunt, as I have a 1000W inverter was well; even w/ that there's no problem identifying .1 amp loads. I like being able to monitor state of charge - esp. when boondocking.

I've not yet dealt with the almost completely non-functional panel; the level indicators, etc. don't work either on the FW tank; we removed the black tank when we installed the composting toilet.

I'm a big fan of running all the grounds to a single point as much as practical; differences in ground potential are a real magical mystery tour in their effect on various bits of electronics.

- Bart
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