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Old 04-22-2013, 10:29 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by zigzagguzzi View Post
I heard batteries should be replaced in pairs if you ave two. Something about charging? Jim
If I were using these as a serious source of power, I would. In our case the majority of its use is the power jack when I hitch up or probably 15 minutes of use when setting up upon arrival and haven't yet plugged into the site power. Replacing one this time is sort of an experiment to see if we notice any issues.. We will see.

Jack
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:08 AM   #30
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The dealership where I purchased my preowned 2008 Airstream Classic 25 has determined the issue is with the batteries. Replaced the two old Interstates with two new Interstate Grp 24s and tested the charger over 24 hours. They are not billing me for their labor or batteries. What a nice surprise! I guess they felt the batteries should have been replaced when they took the trailer in trade. We are on the road next week to Roaring River State Park in Missouri to meet our college daughter. New tires, new batteries, what can go wrong, knock on aluminum

Kelvin
The problem was not the batteries. We went out this weekend to Missouri. The same issue started again. This time with a little research of converters over the last couple of weeks I was able to determine the Parallax 7300 in my AS is not outputting the correct voltage. I disconnected the batteries and the output was less than 11v, I should be 13.4v to 13.8v. By brother in law owns a 2004 5th wheel and was camped in the next campsite. His 5th wheel has the 7300 too. I checked the voltage of his 7300 and it was 13.4v! His 5th wheel has a battery cut off and the batteries where offline.

With the battery on my AS isolated the converter was not able to supply enough voltage to even run the fridge on LP to light the burner. Got an E1 fault code, hardware failure. I suspect there was not enough juice for the electronic ignition. I decided to drive into the closet town an buy a battery charger. I reconnected the batteries and charged them and left it charging all night. Luckily the voltage had gone down too much on the batteries before I discovered the converter issue.

Why couldn't the dealer figure this out? The Parallax 7300 is used on a lot of RVs and this dealer sells a wide range of trailer and luxury motorhomes and they are an AS dealer!

I'm tempted to just get a 7300 replacement from Bestconverters but I have a large laundry list of major problems discovered on this trip and the AS dealer gave me a 90 day warranty:

1. Converter fails to output adequate 12v voltage to charge battery an provide trailer 12 volt systems.

2. AC unit dripping water inside the trailer on hall floor.

3. Shower leaking between shower enclosure and shower door frame so that water appears in hallway between the shower and bathroom.

4. Fresh water tank leaking from bottom center of tank.

5. Water pump burp after about an hour. I took off the access panel under the fridge and found a leak on the output flexible hose fitting. Luckily not too much water leaked out and I was able to mop it up.

6. Fridge doesn't stay cold on LP during travel. Fridge started at 37 in the morning and by end of day with ambient temperatures in the low 80s the fridge outside temperature display showed 54F. Setting was 4. Thought that would be adequate for todays return trip.

7. I notice when the active LP tank is drawing gas, such as to a the fridge, it hums. I was able to hear it in bed on a quiet evening in the front bedroom enough to where it bugged me and I went out in the evening to check it out. Never noticed this before. Maybe this has something to do with item 6.

I'm not a happy camper but if I can get all these fixed the Airstream should be fun to use.

The bright side of this trip is it rained all day on the trip up to Missouri and on Saturday it rained and drizzled and we didn't have any window leaks or leaks from the rear bumper.

Kelvin
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:42 AM   #31
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Kelvin,

As I posted before, find out if the dealer will upgrade the converter, labor would be the same, negotiate on the price difference between units.
I'm very happy with the IOTA DLS IQ4 55a from Best Converter I installed 5 years ago.

"3. Shower leaking between shower enclosure and shower door frame so that water appears in hallway between the shower and bathroom."

Our Classic leaked in the same place.(under warr, dealer closed), I found that the cold water line at the supply manifold was too short, leaking at connection. (access under the sink). A longer toilet line made for a good replacement, AS sent me the part, still have it as a spare.

"4. Fresh water tank leaking from bottom center of tank."

Ours also...

Small vent hose clamp at tank was loose, not easy to get to. It would leak until level in the lines equalized. Have them check all lines & clamps.

FWIW....I set the fridge on max while towing, just to be safe. 5 or 6 when stopped usually keeps things safe unless ambient temp goes way up.

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Old 05-01-2013, 08:23 AM   #32
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I also bought a used 2008 27FB. Mine is a Safari. I also researched everything before buying and still had problems. I'll chime in with my POV.

I did the upgrade to 3 stage converter from Best and installed myself. It is took a couple of hours to install, primarily because the instructions aren't as clear as they should be and its location on the floor under the panty which made it a bit awkward to work with. It works like a charm and I've had no battery issues and mine are about 3 years old based on the date on top of the battery.

2, 3, 4, 5 I haven't experience.

With respect to the refrigerator, we experienced the cooling issue. Here's what we've done:
1) We make sure the refrigerator is cold before loading (cool on 5 before loading). We then load the night before we leave as it will warm up again from leaving the door open while loading. It is fully cooled down to 35-38 by the time we leave. It tends to hold that temperature when parked at a campsite on setting 4. When we are on the road we put it on setting 5.
2) We freeze several small Coleman chiller packs we purchased at WalMart and put them on the top shelf of the refrigerator while we are on the road. They help keep the refrigerator cool even if the gas blows out. We do run on gas while on the road.
3) We bought one of the small battery operated cube fans at Camping World. We run it inside the refrigerator when we are on the road and stopped at a campsite.
4) I bought a cut to size synthetic furnace filter at Home Depot and cut it to the size of the refrigerator vent opening door on the side of the trailer. I put it in place while on the road. It helps prevent wind on the road from blowing out the flame. We also check to make sure the flame hasn't blown out every time we stop for fuel or a break.
5) Load the refrigerator as full as possible when you are on the road. The refrigerator will stay colder if it is filled with cold food, than if it is partially empty. If we have extra space in the freezer when we are leaving home, we pack ice from the home ice maker in ziplock freezer bags and use these ice bags to fill the space.
6) We had the street side awning added to our trailer and use it when parked. It helps keep the back of the refrigerator shaded.
7) Some people have added a small 12 volt computer fan under the rooftop vent to help keep the air circulating behind the refrigerator on hot days. I considered doing this but so far have found the actions described above were enough to solved our cooling issue.
8) We've learned these refrigerators take much more time to cool down than a home refrigerator. Precooling to temperature is critical. Loading it just before you leave lets all of the cold air out so make sure you load the day before you leave.
9) We carry an ice chest in the back of the truck, just in case or when we need extra space for refrigerated items.

With respect to the noise in the LP tank humming, I haven't experienced it but do occasionally experience it on my home LP grill. It may be the tank wasn't filled properly and has air in it. When you empty a tank I'd suggest having it purged completely when refilling.
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:46 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post

I'm tempted to just get a 7300 replacement from Bestconverters but I have a large laundry list of major problems discovered on this trip and the AS dealer gave me a 90 day warranty:

1. Converter fails to output adequate 12v voltage to charge battery an provide trailer 12 volt systems.

2. AC unit dripping water inside the trailer on hall floor.

3. Shower leaking between shower enclosure and shower door frame so that water appears in hallway between the shower and bathroom.

4. Fresh water tank leaking from bottom center of tank.

5. Water pump burp after about an hour. I took off the access panel under the fridge and found a leak on the output flexible hose fitting. Luckily not too much water leaked out and I was able to mop it up.

6. Fridge doesn't stay cold on LP during travel. Fridge started at 37 in the morning and by end of day with ambient temperatures in the low 80s the fridge outside temperature display showed 54F. Setting was 4. Thought that would be adequate for todays return trip.

7. I notice when the active LP tank is drawing gas, such as to a the fridge, it hums. I was able to hear it in bed on a quiet evening in the front bedroom enough to where it bugged me and I went out in the evening to check it out. Never noticed this before. Maybe this has something to do with item 6.


Kelvin
Ordered and received the Progressive Dynamics 4600 replacement for my bad 7300. This is a supposed to be a 4 stage converter
1. Boost mode 14.4v to 90%
2. Normal mode 13.6v between 50% and 90%
3. Storage mode 13.2v when battery charged
4. This is not shown in the manual but Bestconverters website states DESULFATION Mode 14.4 Volts every 21 hours for a period of 15 minutes to prevent battery stratification. I'll email Bestconverters about this.

Will try to install this within a week.

I checked the drain line to the AC and it appears unblocked. Used compressed air from below then my shop vac from below to suck out any thing. I could hear air blowing when I was blowing air into the drain tube. Not sure anything is fixed.

I repaired the shower leak by removing the shower door by filling voids with spray in waterproof insulation and a thorough caulking job on the plastic flash.

Fresh water tank didn't have a leak. Water was leaking from a water pump output hose and running down to the water tank. The water tank is enclosed by a Rotocast plastic liner and it was leaking the water out of the weep holes.

Repaired the water pump discharge flexible hose leak.

I'm getting the Dometic recall performed in a couple of days. Lets see if that fixes the issue with the flame blowing out. The flame relights if manually blown out so not sure this issue is resolved.

I'll wait for my next propane tank refill before worrying about the hum from the active tank.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:42 AM   #34
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Looks like you are headed in the right direction with your laundry list.

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Old 05-11-2013, 11:23 PM   #35
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Progressive Dynamics 4600 Replacement for Parallax 7355

Today I installed the Progressive Dynamics 4600 Replacement kit. My Parallax 7355 was not charging the batteries so rather than get another 7355 I decided to get a multi-stage converter/charger. I choose the 4600 as it seemed to be an easy drop in install without modifications, well without too much modification. I purchase this from Bestconverters.com

The kit includes the converter/charger module and a DC board. You will have to replace the Parallax DC board.

The first step is to disconnect shore power and the batteries from the system. I notice the battery terminals on the DC board still showed voltage so I left it alone for a few minutes and the voltage was finally 0 volts.

Remove the front panel then the AC side panel. Disconnect the white converter wire from the neutral bus and the black from the fuse. This black wire is a pigtail. The wires are crimped together with a metal lug that is inserted into the fuse block to be screwed down. I reused the crimped lug on the final hook up.

The DC board replacement was where I had the the most difficulty and it was due to how Airstream wires the two batteries. The Airstream has a red positive 8 gauge battery wire and 2 white battery wires, one 8 gauge and one of lesser gauge but still hefty. The Parallax DC board has two lug fittings one on the front and one on the rear to hook up these two negative cables. The Progressive DC board has only one.

You can see the two white cables in the photo. This is the backside of the Parallax DC board. Notice the connector in the corner of the board.

Another issue was the new DC board had the positve and negative connectors along the top of the board. Notice in the photo how short the cables are. There was no way the cables would reach the connectors on the new board. This converter is under the front bed, so I pulled up the bed and removed the inside felt covered box. Luckily the main negative wire and the red wire had extra length. There are strain reliefs for the wires coming into the converter shell and loosen them allow more wire length to be pulled through. The secondary white wire entering from the left however is part of the DC circuits loom so I couldn't lengthen it but then how would I connect the two white wires?

The second photo show the new board and the connectors along the top. There was no way to install the board without changing the wire logistics.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:42 PM   #36
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I thought about the problem and figure if I could find a way of joining the three white wires behind the converter housing and then I could bring the 3rd wire into the converter housing and connect it to the DC board connector.

I drove to Home Depot and was show the part in the photo. The holes are large enough for two 8 gauge wires together on one port with the remaining port supporting the 3rd wire. The first photo shows the part. Its aluminum

I pulled out the two white wires after removing the strain reliefs from the back of the converter housing. There is a plastic casing around the DC loom and I pulled a couple of feet of it off the wire bundle. The wires are wrapped in electrical tape ever foot or so and I cut the first tape off so I could isolate the white wire from the bundle. I mounted the dual connector on the side of the bed support wall and screwed it down. I screwed the DC loom white wire in one port.

The other white wire is lengthy enough and I determined how much length I would need from the dual connector back to the DC panel and cut the wire. The end from the loom and the new wire were inserted into the remaining dual connector port and screwed down tight. The 3rd wire was routed back to the converter.

I put the plastic loom jacket back on the DC wire loom but I had to cut off about 6 inches because of the white wire. The second photo shows the completed install. You can see the DC loom wire bundle with the black plastic jacket.

The 3rd photo show now that I've got plenty of length of red positive and white negative wire to work with the new DC board.

I still have to transfer over the DC circuit wires.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:48 PM   #37
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The new DC board DC circuit connectors aren't like the Parallax where you just push the wire in and tighten a screw. These really require a lug but since I didn't have any I split the wire into two parts and this seemed to work pretty good.

The second photo shows the DC board mounted with the battery + and - wires in place and all the DC circuits and fuses installed. I still have to install the DC wires from the converter module.
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:11 AM   #38
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Next is to push in the new converter and route the wires up through the grommeted holes and join them up to the AC and DC side

I cut the AC pig tail off the old converter and clipped of one wire from the lug. I then joined the AS, converter and the fuse wire together with the existing wire nut and then pushed in the metal lug into the fuse and tightened it down.

The AC white wire goes back on the neutral bus and the green ground I joined it on the ground bus with one of the exiting copper wires are there were no vacant ports on the ground bus.

There is a small 4 wire cable that connects the DC board to the convert circuit board. It is barely long enough. Looking at the left side of the converter you will see it rise vertically and then traverse along the top of the convert module to the DC board and connect on the white connector. This is the Charge Wizard wire.

The 2nd photo shows the connections in place prior to start up. I connected the batteries and devices worked. Then plugged in shore power and no sparks or smoke. Success!

I could hear a faint hum and the LED light was on constantly which means its charging the battery at the highest rate. As the unit warms up it emits some odor as the "newness" burns off. After about 1/2 hour its gone.

The fit of the panel wasn't the same after the install and I had to elongate the panel holes in order for the top door latch to line up correctly. The unit ships with new brown retaining screws.

I have left the shore power on over night. I worked on some other stuff for a couple more hours so I'm sure if there were any issues I would've seen them.

So much check list is about complete.
1. New converter - Check
2. Water pump leak repaired - Check
3. Fridge recall installed (hopefully better cooling while traveling) - Check
4. Shower leaking repaired - Check
5. AC dripping into interior: I put some extra caulking around drain fitting as the original was inconsistent or basically a crap caulk job by AS.
6. Hum from propane tank seems to be gone.

We even got some decorating done. New floor hall runner and mat. New bedspread. We are hanging a couple of National Park poster with 3M command hooks.

All I need to do is wash my "Silver Mistress"

Kelvin
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:05 PM   #39
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Kelvin, great post. Thanks for clarifying a scary task. Jim
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:45 PM   #40
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My propane regulator hums now and then. Usually with a full or nearly full tank but no real rhyme or reason. Gas flows, everything works, so I suspect it is annoying but harmless.

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Old 07-04-2013, 05:51 PM   #41
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I have only had my AS for a few months and upgraded to the 4600. A much better charger. I also did so because I added in two more batteries so now I have 4 AGM's.
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Old 07-05-2013, 02:23 PM   #42
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Where did you put the extra two batteries?

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