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Cracker · 02-08-2007, 08:23 AM

With further respect to the "built-in" battery boxes - are they vented anywhere other than around the compartment door edges?

davidz71 · 02-08-2007, 07:10 PM

Cracker,
The dual battery doors on my '77 Excella 500 and the single battery door of my '86 Sovereign have two vents at the top as well as two vents at the bottom of the door. These vents are cut into the aluminum door only. The plastic battery compartment has a flange that the door frame fits over before riveting therefore the box is insulated from the inside of the trailer. There is no further venting. One of the battery boxes on my '77 had a 4" crack at the top of the back of the box. I used black RTV to seal it so that battery vapors would not get inside the trailer.

85Sovereign · 02-08-2007, 07:31 PM

Cracker,
My 86 Sovereign has two battery compartments set up the same way as Davidz71. It seems to work great. But, it can be kind of a pain to get the batteries in and out to do any type of inspections to them. But, they are tucked nice and neat out of the way.
Greg

Kevbo10 · 02-08-2007, 07:33 PM

i'm all about 'em. my drawer 'o toys wouldn't operate properly w/o 'em. kevbo

Cracker · 02-10-2007, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidz71

Cracker,
The dual battery doors on my '77 Excella 500 and the single battery door of my '86 Sovereign have two vents at the top as well as two vents at the bottom of the door. These vents are cut into the aluminum door only. The plastic battery compartment has a flange that the door frame fits over before riveting therefore the box is insulated from the inside of the trailer. There is no further venting. One of the battery boxes on my '77 had a 4" crack at the top of the back of the box. I used black RTV to seal it so that battery vapors would not get inside the trailer.

That being the case, Airstream probably opted for the tongue-mounted box to save on fabrication costs. How do the cables exit the box on the inside? Maybe this is the hidden "devil in the details!" I'd volunteer to research this topic on the Alumipod - but it's been hovering around 0 degrees or lower for the past week or so.

davidz71 · 02-10-2007, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cracker

That being the case, Airstream probably opted for the tongue-mounted box to save on fabrication costs. How do the cables exit the box on the inside? Maybe this is the hidden "devil in the details!" I'd volunteer to research this topic on the Alumipod - but it's been hovering around 0 degrees or lower for the past week or so.

Cracker, the cables exit through holes in the right front lower area of the box. There is some type of metal cap each cable goes through before going through the box. It is the same setup as in my '77 Excella 500. I'll try to post a picture tomorrow.

davidz71 · 02-17-2007, 02:59 PM

Here are pictures of my single battery box and where the battery cables go through to the inside of the trailer.

Poprivet · 02-17-2007, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewster

Pat,

The gas that is created in a battery is hydrogen SULFIDE, which is both explosive AND poisonous!

I disagree. The gas produced is hydrogen and oxygen. It is produced during overcharge of the battery. The additional energy supplied breaks down water through a process called electrolysis. A hydrogen concentration of 3% to 7% is highly explosive. Over 7% it no longer is explosive. Venting of the compartment is important. It is also important to have no electrical devices that could cause a spark in the battery compartment.
Hydrogen sulfide is produced in your sanitary tanks and smells like rotten eggs

12 volt DC appliances draw a lot of current. A 100 watt light bulb draws a little less than 10 amps. As the battery voltage decreases, the current flow increases. A good TT battery maintains a relatively constant voltage over its rated amp/hour range. It has different characteristics than a car battery. Car batteries require very high current for a short period of time to start the engine. Two six volt batteries connected in series seem to work much better than two twelve volt batteries hooked in parallel so many choose a couple of six volt golf cart batteries for their TT's.

Cracker · 02-17-2007, 05:43 PM

Craig:

I think that the exit of the cables appears to be almost "gas proof." It's probably a matter of cost-savings to move the batteries to the tongue.

3DogNight · 02-17-2007, 06:28 PM

When under way and all batteries in both the TT and TV are being charged by the alternator is there any problem with mixing batteries ie AGM in the trailer and wet cell in the truck? I know they are not to be mixed within one bank. Thanks, 3DogNight

markdoane · 02-17-2007, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3DogNight

When under way and all batteries in both the TT and TV are being charged by the alternator is there any problem with mixing batteries ie AGM in the trailer and wet cell in the truck? I know they are not to be mixed within one bank. Thanks, 3DogNight

I think its OK as long as the engine is running and the alternator is putting out voltage that overrides both batteries.

They need to be separated from each other when the engine is not running.

GoNomad · 02-17-2007, 08:57 PM

Do any of you have an intelli power 9100 with a charge wizard? Can I replace my current battery with a AGM using this converter and charger?

markdoane · 02-17-2007, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spartan

Do any of you have an intelli power 9100 with a charge wizard? Can I replace my current battery with a AGM using this converter and charger?

Yes. Although I currently have a wet cell, I have been told by Randy that the same Charge Wizard is used for the wet cell and AGM. I plan to buy an AGM next spring.

The Gel Cells use a different Charge Wizard.

tincantom · 02-17-2007, 09:13 PM

I have two group 27 Concorde AGM batteries which I installed about one year ago. I also have 4 solar panels charging thru a Trace inverter/charger. The solar and inverter were orinally installed by Solar Metrics - no longer in business. At the time of initial installation I believe the batteries were group 27 wet cells. Does anyone know if I should have adjusted the charge rate on the Trace system when I installed the AGMs?

markdoane · 02-17-2007, 09:37 PM

Tincantom,

I think the answer is yes. Look at the different charging algorithms in this paper.

What the algorithm should be for your batteries is a question for your Concorde dealer, or contact their tech support group. I would think a Trace Inverter/Charger should be able to do anything you ask it.

GoNomad · 02-18-2007, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markdoane

Yes. Although I currently have a wet cell, I have been told by Randy that the same Charge Wizard is used for the wet cell and AGM. I plan to buy an AGM next spring.

The Gel Cells use a different Charge Wizard.

Thanks for the answer.

GoNomad · 02-18-2007, 07:19 AM

This thread is pretty useful stuff, maybe a little to technical but great food for thought. Don't want to hijack a thread but I found it helpful.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...olt-14234.html

tincantom · 02-26-2007, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markdoane

I think the answer is yes. Look at the different charging algorithms in this paper.

What the algorithm should be for your batteries is a question for your Concorde dealer, or contact their tech support group. I would think a Trace Inverter/Charger should be able to do anything you ask it.

Yes, I'm pretty sure the adjustments will let me use whatever settings I need. I'll try contacting Concorde as you suggest.

Thanks

mlang905 · 04-02-2007, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

There's a picture of mine here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/139485-post8.html

The Battery box sits directly below the Univolt, which is all sitting under or more correctly, behind, the shower. The battery box looks to be fairly well sealed at time of manufacture, but is by no means completely airtight.

Jim

I have the same setup on my '73 Overlander. I finally went back to take a look at the battery compartment last weekend, and discovered that the framing holding the compartment up has rotted. Any battery in the battery compartment would be held up only by the door and the outside skin. Unfortunately, the door to my battery compartment was held on by 2 rivets, as all the remainder had popped.

My original battery compartment is not vented to the outside either. Well, at least not intentionally.

I cannot, in any state of mind, see using that compartment to hold a battery again, as it is right below the shower. And it is not vented. And the door and skin are in poor condition.

I think I am going to look into putting the battery in a box under one of the bunks. I found a trailer battery box similar to the white one pictured earlier in the thread. It was $15, and is vented on the top and the bottom. Drop the battery in, hook up the venting, and secure the box down. The parts counter at the rv dealer claimed that it will meet code.

It is a big concern for me as we have small children, and I want to make sure it is safe for safety's sake.

Michael