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Old 09-30-2015, 05:35 PM   #15
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I think the 50A estimate was for the 12v supply from the battery. If the fridge really is 500w, 50A is in the ballpark, considering inverter and wiring losses.
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Old 09-30-2015, 05:55 PM   #16
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Touche'
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Old 09-30-2015, 06:49 PM   #17
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Hello, before my Airstream we had a new 2000 Lance 1010 truck camper with a Dometic 3 way fridge. We took it all over the East coast and a 43 day cross country trip from NY to CA with the unit on LP. In all that time the fridge shut off once or twice when it was very windy out. If yours keeps shutting down, I would have it checked out by an RV service place.
Good luck.

Sam.

Ps. we are having problems with the fridge in our '67 AS Safari the thermostat is leaking LP. Im going to get it repaired or I'll replace it.
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Old 09-30-2015, 07:08 PM   #18
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I installed a Magnum MSH inverter/charger in my new Classic. With the 4 6V Lifeline's and the 30 amp Magnum I can (and have) run my Dometic on 120V while on the road. If it's a sunny day and the 6 100W solar panels are working hard, it really is no problem to run the Dometic on electric instead of gas. The question is why? It cools equally well on either gas or electric....and since it is designed to cool with propane, I made the call to just run it on gas. I do have a separate 120V circuit that's wired to my ice maker, which I leave turned on if I need ice cubes. My intent in designing the electrical set-up was to have flexibility, and it works to that end. Let's not get into the cost of the Magnum, the batteries, the sub-panel, all that copper wire, solar panels, controller, etc. If I'd done a cost-benefit analysis I probably wouldn't have taken on this project. Or even bought an Airstream in the first place!
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Old 09-30-2015, 07:47 PM   #19
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See tips in similar refrigerator thread: Air conditioner filter prevents flame blowout
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Old 09-30-2015, 09:34 PM   #20
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Think you are off by a factor of 10. The heating element in the frig is between 300 and 500 watts depending on the size. Thus the current draw is closer to 4 amps.
Perhaps 4 AH on AC, but on DC it's over 50 AH. Since he will be getting his AC from an inverter running off his 12 volt DC batteries, the draw on his 12 volt DC batteries will be in the range of 50 AH.
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Old 09-30-2015, 09:36 PM   #21
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Touche'
I didn't see the rest of the thread before I replied above, I see my point was already made.
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Old 09-30-2015, 10:05 PM   #22
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Clean your burner. Simple to do. Be sure and put the baffles back in place when your done. It shouldn't be blowing out going down the road.
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Old 09-30-2015, 10:14 PM   #23
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I have a 2013 25FB with the Dometic RM 3762 fridge. I have run it on gas while on the road, it works fine.

Later I added 435 watts of solar panels and an inverter, and have run the fridge on electric while on the road. That works well, too. The load on the 12 volt system is about 32 amps. The solar is not enough to keep up with the fridge, but the drain on the batteries by the end of the day is not too bad--typically the batteries end up about 20 amp-hours down.
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:11 PM   #24
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Think you are off by a factor of 10. The heating element in the frig is between 300 and 500 watts depending on the size. Thus the current draw is closer to 4 amps.
That's 4 amps @120VAC. when drawn thu an inverter, the batteries show an increase of 10X @12VDC, now 40 amps. You then factor in 15% inverter inefficiency and you are at 42-45 amps being drawn from thu inverter from the batteries.

All 120VAC loads produced thru an inverter will show an amperage increase of 10X minimum @12VDC over the 120VAC rating.
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Old 10-01-2015, 11:36 AM   #25
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Just had the 'mother board' replaced on my frige when it wouldn't stay lit. Works fine now on LP when towing. Should work on elec if you have solar and it's sunny.
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Old 10-01-2015, 11:48 AM   #26
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Keeping refrigerator on electric while traveling

I use an invertor to power up the refer circuit, my 2002 AS has the original unit it draws 175 watts. I have a dedicated separate 12 vdc power supply to the investor controlled by a relay that kicks on the invertor when shore power is disconnected.
It works great on a 300 watt investor, got from Grainger for $100. The 10 gauge wire cost direct from the TV batteries cost about half that much.
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Old 10-01-2015, 11:51 AM   #27
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Refrig. pilot wouldn't stay lit for us either

We just returned from a 3 week trip to Yellowstone and the Tetons. Our refrig worked well some of the time, but for some reason it would just go out in the high altitudes and would have a bit of trouble getting it going again. It would especially go out while driving. Shouldn't they work better than that? We were staying in places that did not have electricity, so it was frustrating to come back from the day of site-seeing and find it out and the refrig very warm. Does anyone know if there is an adjustment for the higher altitudes? The manual says over 5500 to use power. We were at around 10,000 at times.
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Old 10-01-2015, 12:05 PM   #28
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Something that has not been mentioned. Make sure the proof of flame probe is sitting well within the burner flame. If by chance it is not well centered in the flame air movement while towing might move the flame enough to cool the probe and thus shut the flame.
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